[CheapThrillB2]

I had every intention of replacing all my lower links. But before spending the $ I wanted to make sure I was happy with how it performed. I think mine are all 2" .250 if I remember correctly.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

Where is that notch at?

Congrats on the win guys. Did Erin give you a sticker?:teehee:

A little better reference on the notch. Beefy started knocking it down before breaking his tcase.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKTdqz9yiWo&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

[crunchedtj99]

good talking with you and playing sunday morning man. congrats on the competition win.

 

[whiterhino]

FYI I looked up my old numbers.
DOM = $12/ ft
Alum = $26/ ft
Figure on 4 links @ 3ft each, difference is $168.

DOM = 16.5 pounds/ ft
Alum = 11.3 pounds/ ft
Weight savings = 62 pounds.

To me, it wasn't worth the extra cash to save that little weight.

I don't see this as a right or wrong way to go........... purely personal choice. My one other reason I liked the steel is that if necessary, it's weldable. Let a jam nut come loose & wabble out the tapped hole on aluminum & you are screwed. With steel, weld the fawker up and go back to wheeling.

 

[feva4u]

bend straight with press, weld angle iron on, wheel :teehee:

 

[Mr. Beefy]

Keep bent ones as spare

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4

 

[whiterhino]

Keep bent ones as spare

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4

At the rate you are going you should carry a whole spare rig............:teehee:

 

[Grassman]

He Does

 

[ROXROES]

FYI I looked up my old numbers.
DOM = $12/ ft
Alum = $26/ ft
Figure on 4 links @ 3ft each, difference is $168.

Does that include bungs and time to weld them in? Not that most people measure time, but having done both styles. Aluminum definitely wins as far as hassle goes.

If you're going to go with steel I would suggest going lighter wall than 3/8 using chromoly and getting them heat treated. Especially if its for a buggy, a full bodied rig who cares, its already heavy so use 3/8 wall. :finger:

I run 2.25" AL lowers on my buggy since thats what Branik recommends for racing. They have held up great so far after over a dozen wheeling trips and two TREC races I did last year.

 

[JohnnyJ]

At the rate you are going you should carry a whole spare rig............:teehee:

Look who is talking.

 

[crunchedtj99]

my lower links are sleeved chevy torsion bars.... im told they wont break not sure i like the weight though.

 

[BigBird]

At the rate you are going you should carry a whole spare rig............:teehee:

Burned... Hahaha

 

[whiterhino]

Does that include bungs and time to weld them in? Not that most people measure time, but having done both styles. Aluminum definitely wins as far as hassle goes.

If you're going to go with steel I would suggest going lighter wall than 3/8 using chromoly and getting them heat treated. Especially if its for a buggy, a full bodied rig who cares, its already heavy so use 3/8 wall. :finger:

I run 2.25" AL lowers on my buggy since thats what Branik recommends for racing. They have held up great so far after over a dozen wheeling trips and two TREC races I did last year.

No, material only. I guess you didn't read that I went with the thicker wall to tap them direct.:fish:

Look who is talking.

Next time you break your steering you can look elsewhere for a welder.:finger:

 

[CheapThrillB2]

Would said welder be the same one you bought from me? :sonicjay:

 

[ROXROES]

No, material only. I guess you didn't read that I went with the thicker wall to tap them direct.:fish:

Reading isn't my strong point, I'm more hands on. :finger:

 

[chevotass]

I like pizza

 

[Lousypirate]

I like turtles

fixed.


Just use I beams for your links :teehee:

 

[NightKrawler]

FYI I looked up my old numbers.
DOM = $12/ ft
Alum = $26/ ft
Figure on 4 links @ 3ft each, difference is $168.

DOM = 16.5 pounds/ ft
Alum = 11.3 pounds/ ft
Weight savings = 62 pounds.

To me, it wasn't worth the extra cash to save that little weight.

I don't see this as a right or wrong way to go........... purely personal choice. My one other reason I liked the steel is that if necessary, it's weldable. Let a jam nut come loose & wabble out the tapped hole on aluminum & you are screwed. With steel, weld the fawker up and go back to wheeling.

But the aluminum ones can be so nice and shiny

Before

After

 

[joescamaro67]

But the aluminum ones can be so nice and shiny

Before

After

I should have never told you how to polish those lol

 

[Shotgun]

Bling blaau!