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Mr. Beefy's "not quite yet U4 buggy" build

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#42 ·
http://www.liftlaws.com/is_full_hydro_steering_street_legal.htm

Considering these laws, it is quite possible to design and build a safe full hydraulic steering systems that meets the requirements of all states with the exception of Tennessee. Although these laws don't specifically prohibit full hydraulic steering, that does not necessarily make it legal. That in mind, the risks of running a full hydraulic steering setup are mainly fix-it tickets and lawsuits.
 
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#46 ·
tonka toy said:
http://www.liftlaws.com/is_full_hydro_steering_street_legal.htm

Considering these laws, it is quite possible to design and build a safe full hydraulic steering systems that meets the requirements of all states with the exception of Tennessee. Although these laws don't specifically prohibit full hydraulic steering, that does not necessarily make it legal. That in mind, the risks of running a full hydraulic steering setup are mainly fix-it tickets and lawsuits.
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Nissan is going to have a full drive by wire system in there 2013 models.

Maybe the full hydro thing might loosen up a bit with a brand sold nationally that has passed DOT standards driving next to you on the highway at 90 mph without any steering shaft.

I think if you get a officer butt hurt over anything it will be the bracing in the windshield causing a obstructed view.

Great build :beerbang:
Thanks for showing the carrier and including a link.
 
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#48 ·
CheapThrillB2 said:
So question time.....plan is to use 1.25 hiems on the links, what is the ideal material for the links themselves.....think liv2mx style wheeling :sonicjay:.

Also with the front driveshaft...carrier style set-up in front of the tcase. Was looking at PJ's setup..http://mandmfab.com/id14.html
Image

Thoughts?
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I have the standard bronze spherical bearing and like Nick said, it needs to be replaced occasionally but I don't think every year. I make sure I grease it all the time to keep it from getting sloppy. If I had it to do over again I would look at something like that or a factory style like Bones has. The biggest time it sees wear is highway driving with drive flanges where it is spinning fast for extended times. Normal trailer queen stuff like we do doesn't seem to bother it much.

I assume you are going to have a telescoping shaft between the t-case and carrier bearing?

I have 1.75 x 1/4 wall lower links and I have to pull and straighten them every year. All links have Ballistic joints and I hate them. I blew one out this weekend in Canada and ran all day yesterday with it clunking like crazy. I'm going to 2" Aluminum but haven't decided on which joint to use. I need to talk to Dale about the brands he carries.
 
#49 ·
CheapThrillB2 said:
Just to clarify the extent of driving on roads would be to/from trail heads, campgrounds to parks etc....not gonna be driving this to work or to get groceries etc...
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I agree why would you drive your expensive tires on the highway anyway. I would drive at city speeds where you have more reaction time. Not for legality but for safety.
 
#54 ·
bluminade said:
you can get them at RSP (rock solid performance)
they can custom build them for whatever you want.
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Yes, I did talk to them, and figured I could save some coin by machining them myself.

CheapThrillB2: If you decide to use the aluminum links, I might be able to make some for you when I do mine. I work in GR and have some property in Middleville.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
Good to know, keep it in mind when the time comes.



Picked up some fenders and grille yesterday as well as a pair of 5 point harness's.

My first order from ruffstuff showed today, now I can start on motor and trans mounts-crossmembers.
 
#58 · (Edited)
Nope, but it sounded great!


Section 257.710c
(4) Notwithstanding subsection (2), a person shall not operate a motor vehicle having lift blocks between the front axle and springs, or with lift blocks that exceed 4 inches in height between the rear axle and springs in addition to those provided by the original manufacturer. Any body lift block shall be of single piece construction and shall not use more than a 3-inch spacer. Any suspension lift block shall use an alignment pin between the axle and the spring, and shall be of single piece construction. Spring shackle replacements shall not exceed the original equipment manufacture length by more than 2 inches, and coil spring spacers are prohibited. All steering components shall be geometrically arranged to function as original equipment manufacture. Welded pitman arms, drag links, and tie rods are prohibited. All parts used to modify the original suspension or height of a motor vehicle shall be factory manufactured and shall meet or exceed the original manufacturer's specifications.

This thread is not about steering or whether or not it's to be a trailer queen.
 
#60 ·
feva4u said:
All steering components shall be geometrically arranged to function as original equipment manufacture. Welded pitman arms, drag links, and tie rods are prohibited. All parts used to modify the original suspension or height of a motor vehicle shall be factory manufactured and shall meet or exceed the original manufacturer's specifications.

This thread is not about steering or whether or not it's to be a trailer queen.
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No it's not but it is about John making good decisions for his build.

Full hydro is geometrically arranged to function as OE. It adjusts both tires together as the steering wheel is rotated. Since there is no pitman arm, drag link or tie rod, that portion does not apply.

To me, it's still grey enough that it could be argued. Won? I hope I don't have to try.:sonicjay:

Either way, after having no assist, hydro assist and full hydro, for a buggy I would not even consider anything but full hydro.
 
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