Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Johnny's GoatBuilt JHF buggy build

1 reading
Jump to Latest
821 - 840 of 994 Posts
Discussion starter · #822 · (Edited)
Playing around with the rear cargo area. I need to pick up some 12ga sheet metal to move along.

I think what I'll do is cut out a border with some reinforcements through the middle and weld the expanded metal under it. This should keep it reasonably light weight, and not hold water. Plan to it add some tabs and make the trunk floor removable.

I have a cad file for the tailgate, so I'm planning on cutting that out of aluminum and using these tailights:

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: AT-HAIHAN Pack of 2 Aluminum Housing Red LED Trailer Stop Brake Turn Tail Lights 7.5 Inch, DOT Compliant Waterproof Surface Mount Lighting for Truck Tractor Jeep RV : Automotive

Buy AT-HAIHAN Pack of 2 Aluminum Housing Red LED Trailer Stop Brake Turn Tail Lights 7.5 Inch, DOT Compliant Waterproof Surface Mount Lighting for Truck Tractor Jeep RV: Lighting - Amazon.com âś“ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

After that, I may add some expanded metal to make removable sides to create a basket, and allow me to throw stuff like my tow strap in the back. We'll see. Not totally sold on that.

Image
 
#826 ·
Using expanded metal makes sense, keep in what you need and keep out what you don't (dirt, water, debris).

Are you running the brake lights just off that sensor you plumbed in with the brake lines? Do you just run a power in and out of the switch and the line pressure completes the circuit?
 
Discussion starter · #827 ·
Yep, with LED taillights the current draw is minimal, so I don't bother with a relay. I had a spare circuit in the fuse block, so I run a 5amp fuse (or maybe less) through the switch and back to the lights. No turn signals at this time, so the wiring is pretty basic with just brake and running light that I tied to headlight switch.

www.speedwaymotors.com

Pressure Brake Switch and Adapter Tee Fitting Kit

Plumb your brakes with the best from Speedway Motors! We packed together a common brake pressure switch with one of our brass adapter fittings for a simple and clean brake switch plumbing solution for you! Kit Contains: (1) Painless Wiring Pressure Brake Switch (1) Speedway Motors 3/8 Inch to...
www.speedwaymotors.com www.speedwaymotors.com
 
#829 ·
JohnnyJ said:
Ended up with a sheet of 0.125 from Hill Steel for just over $200 instead of $300 for 12ga from the place on Howell. Glad I price checked. Out of curiosity.. if you've picked up some metal lately how does that price compare?
Click to expand...
I don't work with expanded, but the last 4x8 sheet of 1/8 I bought about 6 weeks ago was 230.
 
Discussion starter · #832 · (Edited)
Got the trunk pan cut out tonight. Next time out I will get the press brake put back together and bend the wings on the sides and start fitment. Not sure how visible the bend ticks are, but I put some in to help me line it up for forming.

The middle triangle is hole is short to allow for the milwaukee pack out stand to bolt in that section.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #833 ·
I got the bending die setup in the press. Worked pretty well, but I couldn't get it to bite on the wings, so I had to do some hand forming as it was too much for the sheet metal brake. They still need a little massaging.

Had to do a little clean up in a few spots, but otherwise it fit pretty well. Up next final fitment, mount to chassis, add the expanded steel to the bottom side, and mount the tool box.

Image
 
#834 ·
Curious if Holley has you adjust the IAC count to a certain number using the throttle body screw. With HPtuners, you adjust the screw until you get to a "good" (60-75 or something, can't remember now) count number so that the IAC has room to move both ways to control the idle. If you don't do this with Holley, you may be too close to the high or low limit of the IAC not allowing it to correct the airlfow in a timely manner. HPtuners has a cross sectional area calcualtion it uses for airflow as well. When going to a 92mm TB, the cross secitonal area had to be changed and the IAC set to the proper "count" when at idle. Doing that reduced the "sensitivity" of the pedal because the ECU had the right area calculation and enough travel of the IAC to correct without under or overshooting. Another thing that'll add to that "jumpiness" is your timing advance coming on and off idle. If you have large change in your timing tables between the 2 areas, changing the throttle body won't really help that. Hopefully some of that made sense.

Test the timing by looking at where your tables go to when you come off idle and make the timing in that whole region match your idle timing value. You should do a manual override of the timing and move it up and down to achieve the lowest map number when you're setting your idle timing. People either do all of this stuff or they take the "Holley take the wheel" mentality. Doing those things should help alot with the off idle sensitivity. It won't fix the whistle, but that's just some die grinder work though. Childs play compared to the buggy you built. Good luck, hopefully that wasn't too much mumbo jumbo.
 
Discussion starter · #835 ·
That's good info. I am currently on "Holley take the wheel" mode, but I do have a craptop that I can use for tuning. The only time I've been frustrated with throttle is out west on steep climbs when you want to just barely crawl. What I have found is that I am trying to slightly (and I mean slightly, like 0-1% throttle) to just get the wheels to start turning.

I've thought there's a few things that could be impacting me in that situation:
1. should I add more trans fluid; maybe I'm starving the pump a little at steep angles
2. lower the stall in my TC; which seems like voodoo and could be expensive to get into
3. mess with throttle & efi

and 3 has many things, including what you just mentioned. I hadn't thought about 3 much other than "hey let's try the smaller TB and see if it makes a difference." But your comments make a lot of sense. I wonder how much control over spark I have at low throttle angles.

We are headed to PA and there could be some climbs that are maybe similar to out west. The weather will dictate what it's like. I figure it's a cheap science experiment.

For something like Harlan where throttle control wasn't as big of a deal, it was no concern; but in Sand hollow like in the pics from a few pages back the technical low wheel speed part plays a bigger role. Reality is I'll likely only make it out there once a year given the day and longer drive times.
 
#836 ·
Tell me more about the PA climbs like out west. You talking about at Rousch Creek?

I have a slightly used lower stall TC you can try that came out of a Diesel. It may have a little gunk in it but don't worry - it'll be fine.

I like the tool tray.
 
Discussion starter · #837 · (Edited)
In the pics of the AOAA trail there are rocks that should have us climbing reasonable ledges. If it's dry I hope that it will be technical and not all bump bump bump. There is the comp section in the front of RC.

Uh, thanks but no thanks on that TC. I'd like to lower it by 100 or 200rpm, not or 1000 or 2000...

Bolted the packout mount from ORA to the plate. Have the tabs on the bumper side in. I need to make the mounts on the radiator side. The expanded steel is wire wheeled and welded on.

Image
 
821 - 840 of 994 Posts
About this Discussion
993 Replies
64 Participants
Last post:
JohnnyJ
Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest
posts
4.2M
members
32K
Since
2005
A forum community dedicated to Great Lakes 4X4 owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, trails, tires, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Off Topic Lounge (The Pub) Rig Builds and Pics Jeep Tech General Tech New Member Introductions