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I'm loving this tractor BTW! I got about 5hr on it so far and I'm glad I didn't go with a smaller unit. I picked up a used Land Pride 6' back blade and york rake so far, I need a set of pallet forks bad and a wicked tooth bar for the bucket.
 
I'm loving this tractor BTW! I got about 5hr on it so far and I'm glad I didn't go with a smaller unit. I picked up a used Land Pride 6' back blade and york rake so far, I need a set of pallet forks bad and a wicked tooth bar for the bucket.
Same on the smaller unit. I looooove my LX2610 but sometimes think I should have gone with a B2601 since I mow and stuff with it too. Easier on grass, slightly more maneuverable, etc. They didn't have any B2601 in stock when I bought mine so I never got to do a real comparison with them. I checked out my dad's new B2601 on Easter, the size difference is bigger than I expected, which wouldn't be a bad thing for mowing, but running the loader a little I could tell a big difference and the hydraulics were a lot slower. I'm sure if that's what I'd gotten I'd still love it, but it did make my feel a lot better about going with the LX series.
 
I'm loving this tractor BTW! I got about 5hr on it so far and I'm glad I didn't go with a smaller unit. I picked up a used Land Pride 6' back blade and york rake so far, I need a set of pallet forks bad and a wicked tooth bar for the bucket.
Wicked tooth bar made a world of difference, Also don't cheap out and buy clamp one forks, they work ok, but actual pallet forks are way better. Watch Palletforks.com "Scratch and Dent section" I got them cheap. I ended up paying around $500 for a quick attach backer and 48" Forks.
 
I bought a Kubota LX2610 earlier this year, which is just a renamed version of the tried and trued B2650. I love it. Basically it was the biggest chassis size available with a mid PTO, which I got because I wanted to go for the one-size-fits-all approach and mow my yard with it. It does it very well too. Lift capacity front and rear are both very good. For my yard size I easily could have gotten by with a BX(subcompact) or small B(small compact) but I wanted the increased lift capacity for all the firewood and crap I move around in the fall and winter. A B2601 probably would have been the perfect mid-range option for me, but the LX2610 was only slightly more money, slightly more capable, and easier to get. I would have had to wait 3-4 months for a B2601, where I had to wait a week and a half for the LX2610. An L would be even better for stuff like moving firewood, is way heavier duty, and nearly identical in cost to mine, but it would be much harder on the lawn and isn't avaible with mid PTO. Better for farm-type work, worse for homeowner-type work.

General recommendations:
If primary use is mowing and lawn work, turf tires will do the least damage. My R4s aren't bad on the lawn but I have to be careful turning tight, especially going uphill. I suspect a lot of that is due to tractor size and weight though. R14s seem to be a great all-around, but are primarily only available on Kubotas so far. I kinda wish I'd gone with those over the R4s.
I'm a big, big fan of hydrostatic for general home and yard work. I've used manual a bunch as well and like hydro infinitely better. The 3 speed Kubota is much nicer than 2 speed JD.....although the smaller ones might still be 2 spd.
The swift-tach loaders on Kubotas are much sloppier and more problematic, I'd avoid that option. Even the standard loader only takes a couple minutes to remove or install.
Absolutely, positively, 100% do not buy a pinned bucket, get a quick attach, whether it's SSQA or JD's system. I use pallet forks and stump bucket as much as the standard bucket, not being able to switch out would suck.
BXPanded Pirahna tooth bar is a must for any digging or scooping.
Bumping as we our lawn service lady is retiring, and we either need to start mowing our yard or find a new service. We were getting the next door neighbor deal, so I'm nervous what a real world cut will cost.

We have 2.5 acres that is mostly open space. It will get used for the bucket to pick up stuff off the trailer, plowing, and cleaning up yard projects. As my wife and I talked last night, the list of stuff she wants done around here grew.

I talked with Kickstand a bit ago and he has a L2501, which has no mid-mount PTO. He has a rear 3pt finish mower. He's happy with his tractor, and I think we have similar goals.

@bbaXJ - sounds like you have LX2610 with the 60" belly mower. How hard is that to install and uninstall?

I'm trying to weigh between L2501 with the pull behind or the LX2610 with belly mower. Not sure how frequently I would truly need to drop the mower, but if I were doing some ditch clearing, I may want that clearance. I do sense the belly mower would be easier to mow with.

I'm thinking either way to get R14 tires, hydrostatic, 4wd, front bucket, forks, and mower to get started. Any advice is appreciated.

Absolutely, positively, 100% do not buy a pinned bucket, get a quick attach, whether it's SSQA or JD's system. I use pallet forks and stump bucket as much as the standard bucket, not being able to switch out would suck.
More info on this? Definitely want to swap between bucket and forks, and maybe the stump death device you showed a while ago.
 
Bumping as we our lawn service lady is retiring, and we either need to start mowing our yard or find a new service. We were getting the next door neighbor deal, so I'm nervous what a real world cut will cost.

We have 2.5 acres that is mostly open space. It will get used for the bucket to pick up stuff off the trailer, plowing, and cleaning up yard projects. As my wife and I talked last night, the list of stuff she wants done around here grew.

I talked with Kickstand a bit ago and he has a L2501, which has no mid-mount PTO. He has a rear 3pt finish mower. He's happy with his tractor, and I think we have similar goals.

@bbaXJ - sounds like you have LX2610 with the 60" belly mower. How hard is that to install and uninstall?

I'm trying to weigh between L2501 with the pull behind or the LX2610 with belly mower. Not sure how frequently I would truly need to drop the mower, but if I were doing some ditch clearing, I may want that clearance. I do sense the belly mower would be easier to mow with.

I'm thinking either way to get R14 tires, hydrostatic, 4wd, front bucket, forks, and mower to get started. Any advice is appreciated.



More info on this? Definitely want to swap between bucket and forks, and maybe the stump death device you showed a while ago.
I have a mid mount, and a 3pt finish mower. My midmount gives a little bit better cut and is super maneuverable, but the 3pt does great too. My New Holland has super steer, so it can almost pivot on a rear tire for turning which is great with the midmount, but the 3pt swings different.
 
More info on this? Definitely want to swap between bucket and forks, and maybe the stump death device you showed a while ago.
Kubota (and probably several others) come standard with a skid steer quick attach mount for the loader, it is absolutely a #1 must if you plan to switch between different loader implements. It saves oogles of time just pulling two levers to remove a bucket rather than fiddling with 4 pins that are probably siezed. They make a lot of adapter kits to make your unit quick attach. The JD system is proprietary to JD ( I believe anyway) and is a similar concept but the mounting system itself is a different design. From what I see, it's it not compatible with skid steer quick attach implements , so all of your stuff would have to be JD quick attach.

The stump bucket would be really cool, but so far I haven't' been able to justify the expense when the pallet forks are working great for stumps. Probably not what they supposed to be used for, but they work great either way. Just pop roots on a couple sides, and the stump usually folds over and comes out. Plus the forks are great for shaking off all the dirt so all you're talking away is the stump itself, not 200lbs of dirt
 
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Thanks wave_crusher for the feedback. I kind of thought Kubota had that system, but it seemed a bit vague. Good info on the forks working to lift stumps.

I've looked at the RK (TYM) tractors over the past few months. There's also a TYM dealer (Hodges) on the north side of Fenton. It seems like everybody is happy with Kubota, and given I'd like to keep long term, I'm leaning towards that. But nothing is set in stone.
 
quick attach bucket is a must in any given weekend I will have my bucket, forks, grapple and the tree pincher on the front of Lou sometimes switching items 5 or 6 times in a day depending on what I am working on.

I have around 500 hours of seat time on Lou and My old man left 2 weeks ago for his cabin with his TYM riding piggyback, talked to my mom the other day and she said Dad has been playing from sunup to sundown on his tractor with a shit eating grin on his face. He keeps sending me photos of oak stumps he dug out along side his trails.

RBB
 
Bumping as we our lawn service lady is retiring, and we either need to start mowing our yard or find a new service. We were getting the next door neighbor deal, so I'm nervous what a real world cut will cost.

We have 2.5 acres that is mostly open space. It will get used for the bucket to pick up stuff off the trailer, plowing, and cleaning up yard projects. As my wife and I talked last night, the list of stuff she wants done around here grew.

I talked with Kickstand a bit ago and he has a L2501, which has no mid-mount PTO. He has a rear 3pt finish mower. He's happy with his tractor, and I think we have similar goals.

@bbaXJ - sounds like you have LX2610 with the 60" belly mower. How hard is that to install and uninstall?

I'm trying to weigh between L2501 with the pull behind or the LX2610 with belly mower. Not sure how frequently I would truly need to drop the mower, but if I were doing some ditch clearing, I may want that clearance. I do sense the belly mower would be easier to mow with.

I'm thinking either way to get R14 tires, hydrostatic, 4wd, front bucket, forks, and mower to get started. Any advice is appreciated.



More info on this? Definitely want to swap between bucket and forks, and maybe the stump death device you showed a while ago.
The L series is significantly heavier duty than the LX series. Similar size, but looking at them side by side the axles, frame, and loader are far beefier on the L series for nearly the same price. The benefits of the LX are the mid PTO, slightly more compact, lighter weight, and more creature comforts standard(nicer seat, tilt steer, etc). For general use around home the LX is plenty of tractor and I have zero regrets with my purchase.

My belly mower cuts great. I can install or remove it in 5-10 minutes. It's much easier/faster if the loader is on at the time so I can raise the front end off the ground and rotate the deck into or out of position. On average I only remove the mower deck once a season for severe dirt work and usually sharpen the blades at the same time. It lifts up pretty high and can be pinned to the frame in 30 seconds so that you can still use the 3 point without the deck dropping down. With it pinned up the ground clearance is plenty for 75% of dirt work you'd want to do, even in the woods. It's a very beefy deck and weighs about 400lb so it can take some abuse if you do high center or hit it on something.

Loader on/off is less than 5 minutes of work. I would advise NOT getting the SwiftTach loader system if you can avoid it, it's unnecessarily complex and there have been a lot of field issues with it on various machines, including leaking connections and loader arms coming disengaged and damaging the loader and tractor. It's not standard on the LX so shouldn't be hard to avoid. Probably not even an option on L series. The standard loader setup is much more robust, much simpler, and still very easy and quick to remove and install. Note this is different from the skid steer quick attach. SwiftTach is the Kubota specific gimmick connection of the loader arms and hoses to the tractor. Skid steer quick attach (SSQA) is the attachment of the bucket/implement to the loader. SSQA is not standard on all Kubotas, but it does come on most of them and most dealers won't sell one without it. It's an absolute must, and it's not Kubota specific, it's fairly universal.
SwiftTach (try to avoid this):
SSQA (absolute get this):

I'd have to have a very large, very open yard to consider a 3pt finish mower. I have nothing against them, but they're big and unwieldly. I have a good sized yard, but lots of trees, obstacles, and uneven sections so the 60" mid works better here. If your yard is flatter and more open I'd pay the extra couple hundred bucks for the 72" deck to reduce mowing time by 20%.

Note that the mid mower is a ~$3000 option(probably even more now). If you have a good mower or zero turn already it may not be worth just skipping the mower option for the Kubota. I like having it because it's less equipment to store and maintain. But when I want to use the loader in the summer it gets annoying taking it on and off when I need to mow, because the added weight will make the front tires tear up the lawn and it cuts down on maneuverability having it hanging off the front. Less of an issue though if you have a flat and open yard, just mow with the loader on.

Pallet forks are a must IMO. I use them way more than the bucket. You're welcome to borrow my stump bucket to try out and see if you want one, or even to knock out some projects. I only use it a couple times a year but it comes in handy when I need it.

Agreed on the R14 tires as well, I actually switched to them a few months back. The R4 were a little harder on grass, but main issue was snow. They were crappy but mostly tolerable in powder, absolutely godawful and useless in wet snow. R14 are rumored to be far better, I got to drive them in snow and was pleased but we didn't get any plowable snow after I got them this spring so didn't get the true test yet.

You're welcome to come out to Fowlertucky sometime and try out my machine before you bite the bullet on an expensive purchase.
 
All the rk ls and off brand tractors are the same. Made in India I think. I bought Kubota for the reliability and ease of parts and repair shop if needed. Plus the warranty is awesome and I believe Kubota is only tractor that doesn’t require def


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Thanks wave_crusher for the feedback. I kind of thought Kubota had that system, but it seemed a bit vague. Good info on the forks working to lift stumps.

I've looked at the RK (TYM) tractors over the past few months. There's also a TYM dealer (Hodges) on the north side of Fenton. It seems like everybody is happy with Kubota, and given I'd like to keep long term, I'm leaning towards that. But nothing is set in stone.
I said as much earlier, but Kubota was really only my first choice because it's what I started out with. I looked at several other brands but what sold me was the 0% financing for the entire time on the Kubota. The other had normal financing and TYM had like a credit card thing you had to apply for. Cost was a factor to me and it was actually cheaper to buy the more expensive Kubota (if that makes sense). Plus, Kubota is definitely a high end machine and parts are readily available.

A family member recently bought a new holland and he has nothing but complaints about the lack of loader power; not sure why as it's a bigger machine than mine and can't lift half of what my tractor can. Though, can chalk that up to something not technically machine related, but still. It's also gone back to the dealer for several repairs of things that either broke or were broken from the factory.

All the rk ls and off brand tractors are the same. Made in India I think. I bought Kubota for the reliability and ease of parts and repair shop if needed. Plus the warranty is awesome and I believe Kubota is only tractor that doesn’t require def

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My kubota does not require def..wonder if that is something that is more normal on larger, farm size machines? It does have the DPF system on it though, which can be costly to replace if needed. As of now, I have had zero problems with it, just over 100 hours on my machine; so just getting broken in still.
 
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Def is not required for motors of 25 hp, and down no little tractor requires DEF. The TYM is the only one on the market that does not require it on there bigger motors, Lou is 57 Hp and does not use DEF, She is not even a common rail, they use a knock off of the Cummins 4 Bt with a Bosch mechanical injector pump strapped to her side.
 
I said as much earlier, but Kubota was really only my first choice because it's what I started out with. I looked at several other brands but what sold me was the 0% financing for the entire time on the Kubota. The other had normal financing and TYM had like a credit card thing you had to apply for. Cost was a factor to me and it was actually cheaper to buy the more expensive Kubota (if that makes sense). Plus, Kubota is definitely a high end machine and parts are readily available.

A family member recently bought a new holland and he has nothing but complaints about the lack of loader power; not sure why as it's a bigger machine than mine and can't lift half of what my tractor can. Though, can chalk that up to something not technically machine related, but still. It's also gone back to the dealer for several repairs of things that either broke or were broken from the factory.



My kubota does not require def..wonder if that is something that is more normal on larger, farm size machines? It does have the DPF system on it though, which can be costly to replace if needed. As of now, I have had zero problems with it, just over 100 hours on my machine; so just getting broken in still.
Mine has zero emissions. But mine is only 23hp


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The idea of getting a $30k tractor to buy a $3k belly mower that a $3k zero turn can do in half the time without the wear and tear on the tractor is amusing. Plunking down that kind of cash to mow the lawn would be like getting a BAE Caiman to get groceries. Sure, it'll do it, but maybe you should consider the right tool for the job.

It's funny, I was looking at the maintenance log to see if I should do an oil change on the zero turn. Haven't had to mow in a while because someone turned off the rain spigot.

I have a zero turn with ~700 hours on it and it's 11 years old.
Oil changes every year, new gator blades every year/sharpened every 3rd mowing...
New deck and drive belt every other year...
Two new batteries...
1 air filter...
1 set of new front tires...
1 oil & filter change in the wheel motors
1 new blade hub (was rock splitting)
1 repair on the deck as the discharge wore through (I mostly mow sand with some weeds mixed in).


The deck is getting thin, one blade hub rumbles a bit (still have two spares from when I bought the replacement for the rock splitter 5 years ago), and the starter is on its last leg (won't start it when hot) for the last two years. I have a new starter sitting on the bench to go on it.
 
Def is not required for motors of 25 hp, and down no little tractor requires DEF. The TYM is the only one on the market that does not require it on there bigger motors, Lou is 57 Hp and does not use DEF, She is not even a common rail, they use a knock off of the Cummins 4 Bt with a Bosch mechanical injector pump strapped to her side.
Correct, think it's 26hp and up require DPF system...A couple of the youtube channels I watch have large JD tractors and they DEF systems. No idea what the actual requirements are on it.
 
The idea of getting a $30k tractor to buy a $3k belly mower that a $3k zero turn can do in half the time without the wear and tear on the tractor is amusing. Plunking down that kind of cash to mow the lawn would be like getting a BAE Caiman to get groceries. Sure, it'll do it, but maybe you should consider the right tool for the job.

It's funny, I was looking at the maintenance log to see if I should do an oil change on the zero turn. Haven't had to mow in a while because someone turned off the rain spigot.

I have a zero turn with ~700 hours on it and it's 11 years old.
Oil changes every year, new gator blades every year/sharpened every 3rd mowing...
New deck and drive belt every other year...
Two new batteries...
1 air filter...
1 set of new front tires...
1 oil & filter change in the wheel motors
1 new blade hub (was rock splitting)
1 repair on the deck as the discharge wore through (I mostly mow sand with some weeds mixed in).


The deck is getting thin, one blade hub rumbles a bit (still have two spares from when I bought the replacement for the rock splitter 5 years ago), and the starter is on its last leg (won't start it when hot) for the last two years. I have a new starter sitting on the bench to go on it.


I know I picked this thing up at an auction for like 1800 bucks with 1600 hours on it in 2018 I have replaced one battery and added gas and oil over the past 5 seasons, it cut my mowing time from 1.5 hours a week to between 20 and 30 minutes a week depending on how much of the kid's shit get run over in a given week.

Image






RBB
 
The idea of getting a $30k tractor to buy a $3k belly mower that a $3k zero turn can do in half the time without the wear and tear on the tractor is amusing. Plunking down that kind of cash to mow the lawn would be like getting a BAE Caiman to get groceries. Sure, it'll do it, but maybe you should consider the right tool for the job.

It's funny, I was looking at the maintenance log to see if I should do an oil change on the zero turn. Haven't had to mow in a while because someone turned off the rain spigot.

I have a zero turn with ~700 hours on it and it's 11 years old.
Oil changes every year, new gator blades every year/sharpened every 3rd mowing...
New deck and drive belt every other year...
Two new batteries...
1 air filter...
1 set of new front tires...
1 oil & filter change in the wheel motors
1 new blade hub (was rock splitting)
1 repair on the deck as the discharge wore through (I mostly mow sand with some weeds mixed in).


The deck is getting thin, one blade hub rumbles a bit (still have two spares from when I bought the replacement for the rock splitter 5 years ago), and the starter is on its last leg (won't start it when hot) for the last two years. I have a new starter sitting on the bench to go on it.
Some of us would rather have one nice machine that does it all than owning, storing, and maintaining 10 pieces of barely running "specialized" garbage each needing to be fixed every other time you use it because they're old and clapped out. I hate owning things I don't use, they take up space and inevitably need to be fixed when you do need them due to the neglect of having not been used regularly. I looked at old stuff, even multiple piece of old stuff and have zero regrets about going the "buy once, cry once" route.
 
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