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I'll Direc your TV
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That was my original plan too but I ultimately decided we don't get nearly enough snow down here nearly often enough to bother with it. Up north sure, but not here. I even found one with the plow and SSQA plate that someone planned to do the same with for sale locally for $200 and passed on it. I know that was a steal, but it's just one more damn thing I didn't need sitting around. Our driveway is a couple hundred yards long but most of it is a shared easement and the guy on the end usually plows with his SxS before I get a chance to. I only did 2 "real" plow jobs this winter; once when neighbor was out of town and once when his SxS died on him.
Yep, even in Alpena area it's been several years where the snowfall has gotten what I would call "heavy".


Did your B series come with a loader? I see a loader for them for sale every once in a while. I see a B series for sale often too; they seems like great little tractors.
 

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Yooper In Training
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Did your B series come with a loader? I see a loader for them for sale every once in a while. I see a B series for sale often too; they seems like great little tractors.
Mine is an LX2610, which is just a renamed big B. The small B's still carry that name though, my dad just bought a B2601. Anyway, yeah I got a loader.....That was my biggest reason for buying it. I use the hell out of it fall thru spring, then hardly use the loader during mowing season since I also have a belly mower and use it for lawn mowing duty. Totally overkill for that, but I didn't want another piece of equipment to store and maintain(mostly store since space is an issue). I use the pallet forks 10x as much as the 60" bucket. Stump bucket comes in handy a few times a year it seems. Rear 3 point is mostly used for the ballast box. Standard back blade really only gets used for clearing snow, box blade will get used for driveway and landscape work, and the land plane I've got on perma-loan from a friend is great for fixing the driveway.
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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Mine is an LX2610, which is just a renamed big B. The small B's still carry that name though, my dad just bought a B2601. Anyway, yeah I got a loader.....That was my biggest reason for buying it. I use the hell out of it fall thru spring, then hardly use the loader during mowing season since I also have a belly mower and use it for lawn mowing duty. Totally overkill for that, but I didn't want another piece of equipment to store and maintain(mostly store since space is an issue). I use the pallet forks 10x as much as the 60" bucket. Stump bucket comes in handy a few times a year it seems. Rear 3 point is mostly used for the ballast box. Standard back blade really only gets used for clearing snow, box blade will get used for driveway and landscape work, and the land plane I've got on perma-loan from a friend is great for fixing the driveway.

How easy is the land plane for fixing the driveway, gravel drive I assume? I've looked at getting one to use for our camp road but the road has a lot of dirt and sod in parts and i'm not sure how well it would work for that. The box blade we have is about the perfect multi-tasker and I use that to grade the road (parts with grave anyway). It works pretty well, though i'm sure my skill or lack of is a lot of the limiting factor. My 3901 doesn't have an option for a belly mower, which was fine with me as I don't really have any need for one, but could have been cool to have.

I think it was on here that someone said to get a bucket tooth bar, i've been looking at them and would like to get one. I think the LX2610 is pretty similar in physical size and hydraulic capacity, just the engine HP obviously is different. I think the LX came out either just after or just as I was getting my L3901, maybe I wasn't really looking but I don't remember them being on the lot at Ginops. I probably wouldn't have bought one but I really like the more comfort features on them. I like the flat deck for your feet and the seat. I cannot say enough about a comfy seat. Probably the one real flaw that I do not like is the seat on the 3901.

Also, just realized that I actually meant to ask about the loader to the OP lol
 

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Yooper In Training
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How easy is the land plane for fixing the driveway, gravel drive I assume? I've looked at getting one to use for our camp road but the road has a lot of dirt and sod in parts and i'm not sure how well it would work for that. The box blade we have is about the perfect multi-tasker and I use that to grade the road (parts with grave anyway). It works pretty well, though i'm sure my skill or lack of is a lot of the limiting factor. My 3901 doesn't have an option for a belly mower, which was fine with me as I don't really have any need for one, but could have been cool to have.

I think it was on here that someone said to get a bucket tooth bar, i've been looking at them and would like to get one. I think the LX2610 is pretty similar in physical size and hydraulic capacity, just the engine HP obviously is different. I think the LX came out either just after or just as I was getting my L3901, maybe I wasn't really looking but I don't remember them being on the lot at Ginops. I probably wouldn't have bought one but I really like the more comfort features on them. I like the flat deck for your feet and the seat. I cannot say enough about a comfy seat. Probably the one real flaw that I do not like is the seat on the 3901.

Also, just realized that I actually meant to ask about the loader to the OP lol
A good land plane with ripper teeth would be perfect for a gravel or dirt/sod driveway. My driveway is mostly hard pack dirt with old gravel mixed in. We need to have a couple semi loads of gravel brought in one of these years but haven't bothered yet since it's fine besides spring thaw. Anyway, for the driveway I've had the best results with using the ripper teeth on the box blade to tear it up, then level/lightly compact with the land plane. The land plane just floats over the surface without the rippers, even with an extra 300-400 pounds of cinder blocks on it. So does the box blade if the rippers are up, but with the rippers down once the ground is torn up the blade is too aggressive to do any decent leveling/smoothing and digs in periodically. The land plane is perfect though once it's torn up. So basically tear it up with the rippers and fix it with the plane, that's why both in one unit would be ideal. Then drive over it a few times with my truck and it's mint.

Overall size the LX and L are pretty close, but the L is way beefier and heavier duty. Looking at them side by side the axles are night and day difference. More weight on the L too, which helps for dirt work but would be a hindrance for lawn stuff. The loader arms are spaced a bunch wider on the L too, so even though capacity isn't much higher, it's probably much more confidence inspiring to use hard. It's surprising and occasionally concerning how much the loader on mine flexes if the load is uneven. It still works awesome, but I'd expect the L is a lot more idiot resistant. I could definitely see how someone being stupid could damage the LX loader. Since I wanted a double duty machine I went for the biggest chassis with a mid PTO. I'm happy with it, I love this machine. I max out the loader regularly doing firewood stuff, but that wouldn't be much different with an L as you said. It's big for mowing, but much better than I was worried it'd be.

In all reality I probably should have bought a small B on turf tires for my uses, but I've had this thing in enough mud in the back 40 that if I had done that I'd be wishing I went more aggressive. The slightly smaller machine would be slightly better for mowing, but the ~20% lower lift capacity would piss me off doing loader work. Can't have a multi-use machine without compromising somewhere. I'm gonna be switching from R4 to R14 tires sooner or later though. I'm very happy with the traction of the R4s besides when plowing with the back blade angled, then it slides sideways a lot. I was about to groove them to resolve that when I decided to call the dealer and see if they'd swap them for R14s. People rave about those in the snow, plus it'll be easier on the lawn when turning, which is the only time I have problems. They've got some on order but unknown ETA, and the cost to switch is very reasonable. Even with ~85 hours on my R4s they look damn near new, so they'll be able to toss them on a different machine to sell. I wouldn't have been at all upset if they told me no, I would have just spent a few hours with the groover for snow and had to continue being careful turning in my hilly yard in grass.
 

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Desert Rat
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Did your B series come with a loader? I see a loader for them for sale every once in a while. I see a B series for sale often too; they seems like great little tractors.
No, it did not.
I was between three tractors. This one was the cleanest. It was kept in a shop with heated floors. One had a loader and belly mower but was pretty beat. Like “drive by braille” beat. Both had like three times the hours. This was the only one with R4 tires also.
As it is, it does my mowing and snow duties.
GermanGirl can drive it, which is a plus. Because the more she can do without me, the more I can do, if you get my meaning.

In the meantime I will keep my eye out for a loader, or even another tractor package I can cannibalize stuff from, then sell the rest off.
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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A good land plane with ripper teeth would be perfect for a gravel or dirt/sod driveway. My driveway is mostly hard pack dirt with old gravel mixed in. We need to have a couple semi loads of gravel brought in one of these years but haven't bothered yet since it's fine besides spring thaw. Anyway, for the driveway I've had the best results with using the ripper teeth on the box blade to tear it up, then level/lightly compact with the land plane. The land plane just floats over the surface without the rippers, even with an extra 300-400 pounds of cinder blocks on it. So does the box blade if the rippers are up, but with the rippers down once the ground is torn up the blade is too aggressive to do any decent leveling/smoothing and digs in periodically. The land plane is perfect though once it's torn up. So basically tear it up with the rippers and fix it with the plane, that's why both in one unit would be ideal. Then drive over it a few times with my truck and it's mint.

Overall size the LX and L are pretty close, but the L is way beefier and heavier duty. Looking at them side by side the axles are night and day difference. More weight on the L too, which helps for dirt work but would be a hindrance for lawn stuff. The loader arms are spaced a bunch wider on the L too, so even though capacity isn't much higher, it's probably much more confidence inspiring to use hard. It's surprising and occasionally concerning how much the loader on mine flexes if the load is uneven. It still works awesome, but I'd expect the L is a lot more idiot resistant. I could definitely see how someone being stupid could damage the LX loader. Since I wanted a double duty machine I went for the biggest chassis with a mid PTO. I'm happy with it, I love this machine. I max out the loader regularly doing firewood stuff, but that wouldn't be much different with an L as you said. It's big for mowing, but much better than I was worried it'd be.

In all reality I probably should have bought a small B on turf tires for my uses, but I've had this thing in enough mud in the back 40 that if I had done that I'd be wishing I went more aggressive. The slightly smaller machine would be slightly better for mowing, but the ~20% lower lift capacity would piss me off doing loader work. Can't have a multi-use machine without compromising somewhere. I'm gonna be switching from R4 to R14 tires sooner or later though. I'm very happy with the traction of the R4s besides when plowing with the back blade angled, then it slides sideways a lot. I was about to groove them to resolve that when I decided to call the dealer and see if they'd swap them for R14s. People rave about those in the snow, plus it'll be easier on the lawn when turning, which is the only time I have problems. They've got some on order but unknown ETA, and the cost to switch is very reasonable. Even with ~85 hours on my R4s they look damn near new, so they'll be able to toss them on a different machine to sell. I wouldn't have been at all upset if they told me no, I would have just spent a few hours with the groover for snow and had to continue being careful turning in my hilly yard in grass.
Hmm....might be worth investing in a land plane then. be nice to be able to fully grade the camp road every year. The box blade has the ripper teeth on it, and I definitely agree, it's about useless on hardpacked ground until you tear it up first.

That's actually good to hear then; my tractor does 90% of it's work at hour hunting camp in the swamps, ground engaging work and busting out trees, so less heavy duty would have been a huge deal. Plus, the durability was a factor, cause there are several dumbasses that occasionally do work out at camp....kind of guys that if a door doesn't close first, then slam it harder and harder to make it close, versus looking to see why it doesn't close, kind of people.

When I bought my trator the dealer was going to throw in R14s cause that's what they had, as they were still waiting for their delivery of R4s; I opted to wait for the R4s because I knew them and liked those tires. I just knew that I did not want R1 Ag tires, our old tractor had those and while they were great tractor, they tore up everything any anything you drove on. I always had a slight regret not just getting the R14s just cause the "what if"; however I have been exceedingly happy with so far.

I thought the R14s were slightly more aggressive than the R4s? Like a medium point between R1 and R4? Wouldn't they tear up your lawn more; or do you mean they wouldn't slide sideways as much as an R4? I can see that being the case actually.

No, it did not.
I was between three tractors. This one was the cleanest. It was kept in a shop with heated floors. One had a loader and belly mower but was pretty beat. Like “drive by braille” beat. Both had like three times the hours. This was the only one with R4 tires also.
As it is, it does my mowing and snow duties.
GermanGirl can drive it, which is a plus. Because the more she can do without me, the more I can do, if you get my meaning.

In the meantime I will keep my eye out for a loader, or even another tractor package I can cannibalize stuff from, then sell the rest off.
Ahh ok, it's amazing that so many tractors are just kept outside not even under a rain roof. They're tractors, but like, damn. They're not cheap, why not at the least throw a tarp over it, something.

I'm hoping this year to build a lean-to on the side of our barn just to keep the tractor under. Right now it stays in the shed in a box, which really was worth the $180 I paid for it like 5 years ago; but it's still a fabric shed. It's probably been on borrowed time for a couple years seeing as how 2 trees have fallen on it, and it's missing 3, 4? support poles.
 

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Desert Rat
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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Ahh ok, it's amazing that so many tractors are just kept outside not even under a rain roof. They're tractors, but like, damn. They're not cheap, why not at the least throw a tarp over it, something.

I'm hoping this year to build a lean-to on the side of our barn just to keep the tractor under. Right now it stays in the shed in a box, which really was worth the $180 I paid for it like 5 years ago; but it's still a fabric shed. It's probably been on borrowed time for a couple years seeing as how 2 trees have fallen on it, and it's missing 3, 4? support poles.
I have two garages, a shed and a lean. Full of crap from the hasty move.
So Ko Buddha spent the winter outside.
Cloud Sky Snow Automotive tire Asphalt


I think I need to hire somebody to help set up my shop. Memphis sucked, but my shop and stuff was up and running and I could do “stuff”.

Like I said before, I could pick up another, cannabalize the loader and sell off the rest.
I see this this morning, but I’m recovering from Omni and still “busier than a one legged guy in an ass kicking contest” right now.
Kubota b2910 4x4 30hp diesel loader tractor snow blower - farm &...

But the other side of the coin, I don’t have grader duties. I have pavement.
 

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Yooper In Training
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Hmm....might be worth investing in a land plane then. be nice to be able to fully grade the camp road every year. The box blade has the ripper teeth on it, and I definitely agree, it's about useless on hardpacked ground until you tear it up first.

That's actually good to hear then; my tractor does 90% of it's work at hour hunting camp in the swamps, ground engaging work and busting out trees, so less heavy duty would have been a huge deal. Plus, the durability was a factor, cause there are several dumbasses that occasionally do work out at camp....kind of guys that if a door doesn't close first, then slam it harder and harder to make it close, versus looking to see why it doesn't close, kind of people.

When I bought my trator the dealer was going to throw in R14s cause that's what they had, as they were still waiting for their delivery of R4s; I opted to wait for the R4s because I knew them and liked those tires. I just knew that I did not want R1 Ag tires, our old tractor had those and while they were great tractor, they tore up everything any anything you drove on. I always had a slight regret not just getting the R14s just cause the "what if"; however I have been exceedingly happy with so far.

I thought the R14s were slightly more aggressive than the R4s? Like a medium point between R1 and R4? Wouldn't they tear up your lawn more; or do you mean they wouldn't slide sideways as much as an R4? I can see that being the case actually.
Yeah the LX is still pretty heavy duty and I absolutely love mine, but it's definitely not as ready for the "everything is a hammer if you use it like a hammer" crowd. People who treat it like a skid steer are more likely to mess it up than they would be an L. For your uses I'd say you made the right call.

For some reason I was thinking yours had R14s. Maybe I was just remembering the conversations we had about them and not what's actually on the machine.

The R14 is considered a hybrid of R1 ag and R3 turf according to most reports I've seen(why they didn't name it R13 I don't know). The naming convention makes it sound like an R1/R4 hybrid for sure, so that's probably what it is, but for actual function it seems to perform like an R1/R3 hybrid.....though I'd even argue that it's more of an R3/R4 hybrid since even the aggressive outer part is milder than a true R1. It's got the more aggressive outer lugs like R1(though shallower), but it's got tightly spaced center lugs and a pretty rounded profile(like turf), so it'll ride on the milder center lugs for lighter use while still having the more aggressive lugs as "backup" for biting in deep mud or snow. The tight center lugs help it ride on the surface(more surface contact area) on soft lawns and also acts as almost a rib for lateral traction in snow(which is the only time I've ever had issues with lateral traction, and even that's only when I'm dragging deep snow with the back blade angled).

R14s are the new standards on Kubota, that's what my dealer is putting on almost everything, and I have yet to hear a bad thing about them. This is a year after I bought mine, at the time of purchase the feedback on R14 was still pretty limited so I went with the tried and true R4. The R4 industrial are thicker and tougher because it's designed for construction sites with sharp objects, but the R14 doesn't seem to lack in the toughness department either. Seems to be the best all-around tire for most uses. I went back and forth on it a bunch when I was buying mine. Out of the box the R14 look like they'd do better, but all along I planned to groove my R4, so it'd have even more biting edges and like twice the tread depth as the R14. But after a season of mowing, I can better see the benefits of the R14 for what I do, and without touching them with the groover they'll easily be able to handle everything else I throw at them. If I didn't do lawn duty with it I'd stick with the R4 and groove them up nicely. At the end of the day they're both great tires.
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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No, it did not.
I was between three tractors. This one was the cleanest. It was kept in a shop with heated floors. One had a loader and belly mower but was pretty beat. Like “drive by braille” beat. Both had like three times the hours. This was the only one with R4 tires also.
As it is, it does my mowing and snow duties.
GermanGirl can drive it, which is a plus. Because the more she can do without me, the more I can do, if you get my meaning.

In the meantime I will keep my eye out for a loader, or even another tractor package I can cannibalize stuff from, then sell the rest off.
Just came across this on the book of faces:
 

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Fuck talk, Duck walk!
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After years of dreaming, today was finally the day. I just bought a new 2022 Kubota LX2610SU! Quick attach loader, 3rd function kit, 54" bucket and land pride grapple. Got the R14 tires loaded. It should be delivered next week.

I'll also plan on getting a back blade, pallet forks, a rear quick hitch, a bucket tooth bar and 2" wheel spacers for it :) I can't wait to put it to use!
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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After years of dreaming, today was finally the day. I just bought a new 2022 Kubota LX2610SU! Quick attach loader, 3rd function kit, 54" bucket and land pride grapple. Got the R14 tires loaded. It should be delivered next week.

I'll also plan on getting a back blade, pallet forks, a rear quick hitch, a bucket tooth bar and 2" wheel spacers for it :) I can't wait to put it to use!
Just my .02, the quick hitch is really only reliable if you buy all the same brand equipment, new. If your stuff is going to end up being like mine, and probably most others as well, an amalgamation of different brands and ages, you'd be better off getting a Pats easy Change over a full quick hitch. 100% on the pallet forks, those were my #1 must have when I got my tractor. A 3rd function kit with a grapple bucket would definitely have been a plus as well, I am a little jealous for those.

For the wheel spacers, any specific ones for a tractor? I can't remember where, probably this thread, but there was some discussion about them. I personally don't like the idea on a larger machine, but I also have zero experience with them on a tractor. They've lasted for years just fine on my chevy truck though. Curious if you could just swap around the tires? watched a YouTube video from a guy in Australia that picked up a little B series kubota, had an issue with it being to narrow and that's all he did, was turn the tires around so the offset was backwards. Seemed to work fine.
 

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Project Antitube
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Nice! How much more was the mid PTO? I always wanted one so I could run a second pump. One of my complaints about the modern smaller tractors is they tell you pump flow is something but you lose 2+gpm to the power steering and the rating is at WFO. Pretty easy to add a mid PTO pump on a Kubota because the output for the mid PTO is the same as IH rear PTO.
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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Nice! How much more was the mid PTO? I always wanted one so I could run a second pump. One of my complaints about the modern smaller tractors is they tell you pump flow is something but you lose 2+gpm to the power steering and the rating is at WFO. Pretty easy to add a mid PTO pump on a Kubota because the output for the mid PTO is the same as IH rear PTO.
I thought the SU didn't have a mid-PTO?
 

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Yooper In Training
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After years of dreaming, today was finally the day. I just bought a new 2022 Kubota LX2610SU! Quick attach loader, 3rd function kit, 54" bucket and land pride grapple. Got the R14 tires loaded. It should be delivered next week.

I'll also plan on getting a back blade, pallet forks, a rear quick hitch, a bucket tooth bar and 2" wheel spacers for it :) I can't wait to put it to use!
Congrats! Should have bought the 60" bucket though, I'd switch if you still can. They call it "light material" but it's the exact same construction as the 54". 3rd function and grapple are things I wish I had but have gotten by pretty well without. I'm sure once I try out my dad's 2601 with those I'll change my mind and have to get some myself. My back blade I only end up using a few times a year to plow the driveway in heavy snows. I use the pallet forks probably 8-10x as much as the bucket. I love the quick hitch and tooth bar, both are worth every penny. I haven't bothered with spacers yet, even on my super hilly yard it's not too bad, plus 95% of my use on slopes is with the loader off and belly mower on, so the COG is already improved. People seem to swear by them though.

Just my .02, the quick hitch is really only reliable if you buy all the same brand equipment, new. If your stuff is going to end up being like mine, and probably most others as well, an amalgamation of different brands and ages, you'd be better off getting a Pats easy Change over a full quick hitch. 100% on the pallet forks, those were my #1 must have when I got my tractor. A 3rd function kit with a grapple bucket would definitely have been a plus as well, I am a little jealous for those.

For the wheel spacers, any specific ones for a tractor? I can't remember where, probably this thread, but there was some discussion about them. I personally don't like the idea on a larger machine, but I also have zero experience with them on a tractor. They've lasted for years just fine on my chevy truck though. Curious if you could just swap around the tires? watched a YouTube video from a guy in Australia that picked up a little B series kubota, had an issue with it being to narrow and that's all he did, was turn the tires around so the offset was backwards. Seemed to work fine.
There are pros and cons to both style QH. You're spot on about the Pat's being more versatile and fits a wider range of equipment, plus can be bought in the size to eliminate adapter bushings. I have a standard 1pc style QH and love it. I modified a few of my attachments to work with it but after that it's just so damn easy, plus I added a receiver and chainsaw mounts to it. I bought the Harbor Freight cheapo version just to see if I even liked it and I don't think it's been off more than once since then.

A lot of the BX guys are able to run generic eBay spacers because they have the same 5x5.5 pattern as a lot of street vehicles. For the bigger machines it's a unique oddball pattern and typically runs $300-400 for a pair of spacers. Companies that come to mind are Bora and Motorsport-Tech. Some tractors they can be flipped to wide vs narrow track but IIRC most of the Kubota are already set up as wide as the wheels will go.

I thought the SU didn't have a mid-PTO?
Correct, SU eliminates the mid PTO. IIRC it's slightly less than $2k price reduction, but the SU is also more bare bones. I know it's got the cheaper seat, I think it might eliminate the tilt steering, etc. It does come with larger tires though.
 

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Fuck talk, Duck walk!
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Just my .02, the quick hitch is really only reliable if you buy all the same brand equipment, new. If your stuff is going to end up being like mine, and probably most others as well, an amalgamation of different brands and ages, you'd be better off getting a Pats easy Change over a full quick hitch. 100% on the pallet forks, those were my #1 must have when I got my tractor. A 3rd function kit with a grapple bucket would definitely have been a plus as well, I am a little jealous for those.

For the wheel spacers, any specific ones for a tractor? I can't remember where, probably this thread, but there was some discussion about them. I personally don't like the idea on a larger machine, but I also have zero experience with them on a tractor. They've lasted for years just fine on my chevy truck though. Curious if you could just swap around the tires? watched a YouTube video from a guy in Australia that picked up a little B series kubota, had an issue with it being to narrow and that's all he did, was turn the tires around so the offset was backwards. Seemed to work fine.
You watch Matty T as well on YouTube lol!
Congrats! Should have bought the 60" bucket though, I'd switch if you still can. They call it "light material" but it's the exact same construction as the 54". 3rd function and grapple are things I wish I had but have gotten by pretty well without. I'm sure once I try out my dad's 2601 with those I'll change my mind and have to get some myself. My back blade I only end up using a few times a year to plow the driveway in heavy snows. I use the pallet forks probably 8-10x as much as the bucket. I love the quick hitch and tooth bar, both are worth every penny. I haven't bothered with spacers yet, even on my super hilly yard it's not too bad, plus 95% of my use on slopes is with the loader off and belly mower on, so the COG is already improved. People seem to swear by them though.


There are pros and cons to both style QH. You're spot on about the Pat's being more versatile and fits a wider range of equipment, plus can be bought in the size to eliminate adapter bushings. I have a standard 1pc style QH and love it. I modified a few of my attachments to work with it but after that it's just so damn easy, plus I added a receiver and chainsaw mounts to it. I bought the Harbor Freight cheapo version just to see if I even liked it and I don't think it's been off more than once since then.

A lot of the BX guys are able to run generic eBay spacers because they have the same 5x5.5 pattern as a lot of street vehicles. For the bigger machines it's a unique oddball pattern and typically runs $300-400 for a pair of spacers. Companies that come to mind are Bora and Motorsport-Tech. Some tractors they can be flipped to wide vs narrow track but IIRC most of the Kubota are already set up as wide as the wheels will go.


Correct, SU eliminates the mid PTO. IIRC it's slightly less than $2k price reduction, but the SU is also more bare bones. I know it's got the cheaper seat, I think it might eliminate the tilt steering, etc. It does come with larger tires though.
I'm OK with the smaller bucket, hopefully it acts more like a set of training wheels to keep me from being stupid! Yes the SU strips off some of the features off a regular LX2610. The only thing I might hate is the non tilt steering wheel but I can add on arm rests for the seat for $90 and cruise control for $55.

I never wanted a mid pto, I have a newer zero turn mower. Pallet forks, and a rear blade will be a necessity for me. I need to redo my gravel driveway and my back storage barn dirt floor. Have of the reason for this tractor is to tackle projects in the back 1/2 of my property that I haven't been able to do.
 

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Yooper In Training
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Box blade is 10x better than a regular blade for that kind of stuff, FYI. Needs the weight and ripper teeth to do anything, a regular blade pretty much just skips across the surface. I've never once used the cruise control on my tractor. Only time I could see doing that is if I were finish mowing a huge field or something.
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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9,114 Posts
There are pros and cons to both style QH. You're spot on about the Pat's being more versatile and fits a wider range of equipment, plus can be bought in the size to eliminate adapter bushings. I have a standard 1pc style QH and love it. I modified a few of my attachments to work with it but after that it's just so damn easy, plus I added a receiver and chainsaw mounts to it. I bought the Harbor Freight cheapo version just to see if I even liked it and I don't think it's been off more than once since then.
My quick hitch is nice, but I found out how much variation there is in the 3pts on all the different equipment real quick. A lot of my equipment is older stuff, so it's not modern by any stretch and there is a lot of variation that really just needs me to take a couple days of cutting and welding to standardize all the sizes so I can use my quick hitch as it's intended. $200 for pats easy change is tempting to save myself the work of redoing 3pts on 6 different pieces of equipment all with different sizing and spacing on 3pts.

I also have the harbor Freight quick hitch, and so far it's held up really well for being $99 when I bought it; which was several years ago now. I am not nice to it either, that's with a 6ft brush hog on it through everything from tick to thin stuff and a box blade grading 1.5 miles of grave/dirt road and tearing up roots for several years.

You watch Matty T as well on YouTube lol!


I'm OK with the smaller bucket, hopefully it acts more like a set of training wheels to keep me from being stupid! Yes the SU strips off some of the features off a regular LX2610. The only thing I might hate is the non tilt steering wheel but I can add on arm rests for the seat for $90 and cruise control for $55.

I never wanted a mid pto, I have a newer zero turn mower. Pallet forks, and a rear blade will be a necessity for me. I need to redo my gravel driveway and my back storage barn dirt floor. Have of the reason for this tractor is to tackle projects in the back 1/2 of my property that I haven't been able to do.
Heck yes, I very much enjoy his videos!

the problem that i'd have after working with tractors for years is that even with a 60inch bucket you find out really quick how much material it Wont hold. I'd really be missing the extra 6 inches, but I guess it also depends on the hydraulics of the machine and what the loader is designed for. Mine, the loader will max out lift capacity and not move before it breaks, which I find often. But I also would rather it not lift something than lift it and break something or become a safety issue.

I would buy a box blade over a back blade 10 times over. I see a back blade as a finish blade meant for light work, most of them are anyway. You can find really nice good heavy duty ones that you can get a good dig on material on and do some actual grading work. However I found that the box blade, especially one with forks is much more versatile and i've never ben worried about bending it.

Forks i've also found myself having on the loader more often than the bucket for work at our camp. I bought the forks right when I bought the tractor, just rolled it right into the tractor loan. I really do wish I had the extra income to justify the extra cost of having a 3rd function added on at the dealer, because a grapple bucket would be really really nice to have. I think the grapple bucket is to the pallet forks, as the pallet forks are to the standard bucket. Just that much handier.
 

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Project Antitube
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1,185 Posts
I didn't know the SU got rid of anything other than the mid PTO. Having two pumps is kind of a requirement for me after being spoiled with hydraulics that move fluid enough that you actually have to feather the valves. And the loader still moves when turning. And you don't have to run it wide open. Kubotas are real easy to put a second pump on.
 

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Yooper In Training
Joined
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7,552 Posts
I didn't know the SU got rid of anything other than the mid PTO. Having two pumps is kind of a requirement for me after being spoiled with hydraulics that move fluid enough that you actually have to feather the valves. And the loader still moves when turning. And you don't have to run it wide open. Kubotas are real easy to put a second pump on.
I have zero complaints with the pump output on my 2610. Yes, the output capacity is split between them, but it's never felt like a hindrance and I rarely run WFO. It'll turn, lift, and curl simultaneously and I'm always feathering the valves for better precision. It's not a skidsteer but the only time it's ever felt slow to me was doing a very high lift and dump, which is a rare occurence for me and in all honesty any faster would probably be a safety issue. Not like a lawyer driven safety thing, but a legitimate way to hurt yourself or the machine.
 
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