Holy shit....
I didnt even read all of it but this will be my 5 minutes of gl4x4 for this month.
1- your shit is bound up worse than a senior's center that ran out of prune juice.
2- lower it as much as possible. mock it up at full stuff without springs or shocks, take pictures- ask for advice- take 95% of the advice is BS someone heard from someones friend who knew someone who built a pulling trucks suspension and knows everything about making something that quite literally does not move.
3- now, for the real world "DUH!!!!!!!!!!!" take the bolt out of one of the frame side lower links, drop the same side of the axle about a foot, now you can drink a beer and take another dosage of wheaties for the day.... try to lift the lower control arm that is unbolted and nowhere near where it should be and attemp to put it back into place on the frame bracket. it aint gonna happen. the dual radius arm style front ends some of the less than intelligent self proclaimed experts of designing and making a sellable suspension kit for those vehicles would rather make a cheaper part than a properly functioning system. basically, you need compliance in something (OEM systems are in the large deflection the rubber joints offer) as you replace the compliant joints with rigid joints you force the deflection to come from the next weakest link. in the case, you have a built in sway bar.
4- once you establish where your ride height will be, make the track bar mount on the axle side as high as reasonably possible, find a way to put high steer on it so you can have a vehicle that drives predictably by getting the angles and lengths of the track bar and drag link in a reasonable range for what you are working with.
5- just because the track bar and drag link are paralell it doesnt mean you wont have bump steer. you can get bump steer simply by the amount of sweep the huge angle on the track bar. just like bump steer, the axle shifting side to side means the axle is shifting relative to the body rather than the axle shifting relative to the steering wheel. granted, it's not quite as significant as the typical bump steer that everyone has come to associate with the term but the body still turns relative to the axle as you hit a bump.
6- put bushings in with more compliance, get rid of the dual radius arms in favor of a stock style 4 link with a track bar
7- figure out whats wrong with the kit, sell it, then buy an engineered system, or take on a new project, or pay someone to do it correctly.
8- ill probably show back up in another 6 months-or so.... :thumb:
9- :beer:
10- :beer:
ok, I lied, 5 minutes turned into 3 times that... gotta go!
