[xj4life]

Well a few days ago I got most of the welding done gluing my high steer arms to the stock knuckles. Checked the welds this morning and found cracks in the joints between the plate steel and the knuckle. I'm done. I dont trust them. So aftermarket knuckles it is. Happened to come across this on Facebook right after that decision Guess last summer American Iron started making their own knuckles with cast in double sheer. Interesting. It looks like if I had my heims up against the bottom of the upper arm I'd be pretty close to where I wanted them. Not sure how much steering angle I'd get out of my 8" ram, so better figure that out.

Ai60 Ford Super Duty Nodular Cast Outer Knuckle Set

 

[sterlingfire]

Well a few days ago I got most of the welding done gluing my high steer arms to the stock knuckles. Checked the welds this morning and found cracks in the joints between the plate steel and the knuckle. I'm done. I dont trust them. So aftermarket knuckles it is. Happened to come across this on Facebook right after that decision Guess last summer American Iron started making their own knuckles with cast in double sheer. Interesting. It looks like if I had my heims up against the bottom of the upper arm I'd be pretty close to where I wanted them. Not sure how much steering angle I'd get out of my 8" ram, so better figure that out.

Ai60 Ford Super Duty Nodular Cast Outer Knuckle Set

Why not send your knuckles to weaver? Much cheaper, and gives you freedom to use your current ram to get the most steering you can out of it.

 

[xj4life]

That's a possibility. I do like the all-in-oneness (knuckle and high steer in one) of the American Iron knuckle and their extra strength.

 

[xj4life]

Trying to figure out lockers for my axles: 14 bolt rear, 05+ D60 up front.

14 bolt I dont see a reason other than lincoln locking or a spool.

Would rather not spend the money on a selectable up front at the moment. Is a lunchbox locker worth it for the time being? Detroit or Grizzly? I've run a Detroit in a front axle before and worked well. Maybe since a re-gear of both axles is a possibility in the near future I just run a lunchbox for now so I dont have to worry about ratio splits on full case lockers.

I guess along with front locker goes hub selection. Should I run slugs or selectable hubs? At this point I'm not sure what my "fuse" will be up front when it comes to breakage. Front driveshaft is a combinaiton of 1350/1410 joints. Current plan is stock shafts/ujoints. So maybe a seletable hub as the fuse would be a good idea.

 

[whiterhino]

You are backwards. The newest format which has come out of the rock crawling world is a full time locker up front and selectable rear. Having the ability to pull your front end around and not bind in the back is far better for tight turns and maneuvering. When locked in the back and trying to turn sharp, the rear will push the front, regardless if the front is open or locked. Welded or spool in the rear is the worst, especially if you have good traction. It will bind you up. If you are trying to do lockers on a budget, lunchbox lockers in a D60 and 14B actually work really well. Next up would be a Detroit or Grizzly both front and back. Some people are running spools up front. I tried it and hated it - for the same binding reasons.
Both my YJ and my buggy are equipped with Detroits up front and ARB in the rear. Or you can go like my JK and go ARB front and rear.

Note if you go ARB front and rear. ARB sets up their wiring harness's so that you have to lock the rear first and can only lock the front when the rear is locked. I put a jumper in my switches so that I can lock either front or rear independently as I choose.

As an example, we were snow wheeling at R&V a few years back. I was running locked in the front and open in the back @ 109" wheelbase. My buddy was welded in the rear and locked in the front @ 105" wheelbase. He was making 3 point turns where I was driving without backing up.

 

[xj4life]

You are backwards. The newest format which has come out of the rock crawling world is a full time locker up front and selectable rear. Having the ability to pull your front end around and not bind in the back is far better for tight turns and maneuvering. When locked in the back and trying to turn sharp, the rear will push the front, regardless if the front is open or locked. Welded or spool in the rear is the worst, especially if you have good traction. It will bind you up. If you are trying to do lockers on a budget, lunchbox lockers in a D60 and 14B actually work really well. Next up would be a Detroit or Grizzly both front and back. Some people are running spools up front. I tried it and hated it - for the same binding reasons.
Both my YJ and my buggy are equipped with Detroits up front and ARB in the rear. Or you can go like my JK and go ARB front and rear.

Note if you go ARB front and rear. ARB sets up their wiring harness's so that you have to lock the rear first and can only lock the front when the rear is locked. I put a jumper in my switches so that I can lock either front or rear independently as I choose.

As an example, we were snow wheeling at R&V a few years back. I was running locked in the front and open in the back @ 109" wheelbase. My buddy was welded in the rear and locked in the front @ 105" wheelbase. He was making 3 point turns where I was driving without backing up.

You're right....I am completely out of the loop when it comes to how things are done these days Really appreciate all the info. Since I can't afford selectable lockers I guess I'll look into a Detroit in the rear and lunch box front.

 

[Plato2k5]

I would do a lunchbox in the rear. Apparently the new yukon has a good report compared to a detroit when it comes to surviving broken shafts.

I have a yukon lunchbox in the front 60. No issues at all. I run stock inner shafts and yukon 35 spline outters and their hardcore lockouts. I've been with others who have snapped front lock outs doing the same thing as me. When you put a set of yukons together, you see why they are much much stronger over warn or the like. Now you could always run cheap lockouts and swap to drive flanges before you hit the trails.

Regardless of what you do....its gonna be $. I have zero regrets with the route I took and it has taken the beatings I've given it....well...except for the driver rear shaft and spindle lol.

 

[sterlingfire]

I agree with the rhino... locked front and open rear until you can afford the selectable rear. That's how I'm going to run my truck. I had good luck with my old truck that way(actually had a g80 in the rear but it broke after about 5 trips) . It will still push through corners in the grease, but works great even though.

 

[whiterhino]

I try to wheel without my rear locked in and only use it when I need it. I would bet I wheel 75% of the time with it unlocked.

 

[xj4life]

Amazon had the Yukon 14 bolt locker 30% off so went ahead and ordered it. Not sure if I'll use it but deal was to good to pass on.

 

[JohnnyJ]

I've run Yukon Spartan lockers in front 60s for 10+ years. They cost less and supposedly are less likely to blow out a side gear like a full Detroit if you break a u-joint.

Detroit in a 14-bolt is a lunchbox, and seems to work fine. I'd like to do an ARB, but don't want to spend the money on it.

 

[xj4life]

I've run Yukon Spartan lockers in front 60s for 10+ years. They cost less and supposedly are less likely to blow out a side gear like a full Detroit if you break a u-joint.

Detroit in a 14-bolt is a lunchbox, and seems to work fine. I'd like to do an ARB, but don't want to spend the money on it.

I think that's the way I'm going to go for now, Spartan up front and the Yukon drop-in for the 14-bolt. Can't justify buying something full case lockers being that I dont know if I'm sticking with my gear ratios.

 

[wrath]

I was looking for a LJ Rubicon to buy again today after seeing everyone's old threads getting bumped. Still out of my price range.

 

[xj4life]

Don't wait to long to pick up a new toy. Life's to short not to enjoy it the best you can 😁

 

[xj4life]

Yukon 14 bolt locker showed up tonight. Nice looking piece of metal. Plan for the next few weeks is to start rebuild the 14 bolt (locker, new seals, crush sleeve eliminator if it doesn't have one) and then move onto 60.

 

[Plato2k5]

From all of the reviews I have read about the Yukon locker, it seems to be a solid win. I was planning on buying one as I was not sure if my Detroit was still good after the shaft break. Thankfully I did not have to! If it ever does go, that will be the replacement.

I'm glad I did the solid spacer. I just like being able to torque the nut down without worrying about messing with the preload. Don't just impact the nut on though. I was chasing the rotating torque like crazy. Come to find out I was over tightening the nut with my impact and I think it was causing the spacer to deflect. Used a torque wrench and it was spot on with the same shims.

 

[xj4life]

This is my first experience with axle gears. Every one says 14bolts are a great axle to learn on so I'm excited to get into it.

I'm going to put eliminators in both axles. Just makes way more sense from a serviceability standpoint than a crush sleeve. I bought the axle off a kid years ago, out of his mud truck, so chances are it has a crush sleeve.

 

[xj4life]

Got the 14 bolt center section torn down. Don't have a torque wrench to check pinion drag but spins free and no play. Gears and bearings have some wear but not that bad. Still need to check for the crush sleeve. Hopefully that it won't need much and it'll be buttoned up soon.

 

[Plato2k5]

This is my first experience with axle gears. Every one says 14bolts are a great axle to learn on so I'm excited to get into it.

I'm going to put eliminators in both axles. Just makes way more sense from a serviceability standpoint than a crush sleeve. I bought the axle off a kid years ago, out of his mud truck, so chances are it has a crush sleeve.

I would say they are correct! Only easier axle to work on I would assume is a 9" ford axle. But then again, i'm no expert! Thats the way I put an eliminator on mine. Makes changing out seals easy peasy.

Got the 14 bolt center section torn down. Don't have a torque wrench to check pinion drag but spins free and no play. Gears and bearings have some wear but not that bad. Still need to check for the crush sleeve. Hopefully that it won't need much and it'll be buttoned up soon.

When I looked at buying a rotational torque wrench, may are using cheap beam style you'd use on a bicycle. They can be had for around $30. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03727A...am+torque+wrench&qid=1672790615&sprefix=bicycle+beam+torque+wren,aps,105&sr=8-5

Also, the seal will add like 5 in/lbs from what I read. So if you are checking that without the seal, might be something to consider. Oh yeah, don't forget the red thread lock on the ring gear bolts

 

[xj4life]

I would say they are correct! Only easier axle to work on I would assume is a 9" ford axle. But then again, i'm no expert! Thats the way I put an eliminator on mine. Makes changing out seals easy peasy.

My favorite thing so far is being able to run the adjustment nuts out and pull the carrier with ease

When I looked at buying a rotational torque wrench, may are using cheap beam style you'd use on a bicycle. They can be had for around $30. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-03727A-4-Inch-Torque-Wrench/dp/B01FMXEWQC/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1QMR8XUOLPN7X&keywords=bicycle+beam+torque+wrench&qid=1672790615&sprefix=bicycle+beam+torque+wren,aps,105&sr=8-5


Also, the seal will add like 5 in/lbs from what I read. So if you are checking that without the seal, might be something to consider. Oh yeah, don't forget the red thread lock on the ring gear bolts

I ended up ordering a cheap beam style wrench. Dial type would be nice but can't justify the cost since in reality a beam style will work just fine.

Last couple of nights I've gotten the whole axle torn down, hubs too. Everything seems to be in good enough shape to run it as is. Got the locker installed, waiting on new bolts to buttoned up.

Oh and as I was wrapping up work last night I remembered that I bought the Barnes 13 bolt cover so I gotta shave the bottom lip a bit still.