Nix the hair pin in the stearing ram. Their are pins available that have clips over the end. that hair pin will com up missing and the drive pin will drop out, and you will be with out stearing.

 

Said clips are on the other ends of the pins. I have other clips, just didn't install them.

 

:sonicjay:

I don't even have a front axle yet, or links, or or or or :sonicjay:

 

Very well. Looks good. Carry on.

 

lookin good . might have 2000 style ford D-50/60 keep up the good work

 

I have an axle, just not in my possession, its currently out getting a new pass tube. Pretty sure I broke it jumping logs during the sand lake obstical course :sonicjay:

 

Northwest fab
http://www.northwestfab.com/NP205-Round-Ford-Up-GM-Down_p_14.html

 

What are you using for the 205 shifter(s)?

I want to run cables and levers but have the stock handle on it now.

 

HAven't addressed that yet.

 

Nice work on that truss John :thumb:

Everytime I seen Chuck's I wanted to hump it.

You've been warned :sonicjay:

 

I really like artec's stuff.

Right now I will be running both truss's, lower coil over mounts, fuel cell mount, all but the front lower link mounts at chassis are artec's stuff.

 

Baller!!!..

 

Mine is done the same way, think about the amount of torque needed to move a bushing out there vs right next to it. It's not recommended to do them that way.

 

Mine is done the same way, think about the amount of torque needed to move a bushing out there vs right next to it. It's not recommended to do them that way.

So, solid mount to the frame and bushing right at the case is what I need to do? I would have never thought of that on my own.

 

Just a rubber/poly bushing close to the Trans/T-case to allow some give. I wouldn't solid mount it to the frame but I guess it really wouldn't matter. My poly mounts at the frame don't move and that's not good since I don't have any thing closer to the trans that does move.

 

Just a rubber/poly bushing close to the Trans/T-case to allow some give. I wouldn't solid mount it to the frame but I guess it really wouldn't matter. My poly mounts at the frame don't move and that's not good since I don't have any thing closer to the trans that does move.

:thumb:

I've got some refabbin' to do.

 

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=7611&highlight=d300

Sorry for the Hi-jack, back to buggy build.

 

Considering in the eb the trans tcase factory mount i was using tore at one point so I chained the trans and tcase down to the crossmember and chained it left and right to the frame with turn buckles to tighten :sonicjay:.

 

Think I figured out a solution to my fuel pump...

got my tank

And I think I am gonna modify it to accept a 98 Explorer 5.0L sender.....

Sender has a flat mount

And it will sit 1/8" from the bottom of the cell.

 

I'm sure it wont matter in a buggy, but I just took my jeep for a ride after putting the pump in the tank, with the tank in the cab. Suck. Noisy as hell.

 

so true mine is in the tank in the back of my jeep an it's noisy.

 

yeah people always told me in tank pumps were quiet. bullshit. mines loud as hell.

 

I dont think anything about this buggy is gonna be quiet.

 

The driver/builder....

 

:like:

 

Opinion on firewall floorboards.....aluminum 3/8" 1/8" 3/16" 1/16 thicknesses and the difference between 6061 and 3003 aluminium is?

 

And my 60 housing is to far gone for repair. Looks like i had a bit to much fun without proper protection :sonicjay:. Looks like ill be going with a 80s kingpin 60 instead.

 

I don't know much about alum but:


"IBEX Interior Components

1141 Floor/Firewall assembly
$699.95
Complete floor and firewall panel kit constructed from .080″ 5052 Aluminum
CAD designed and precision laser cut and CNC formed
Ready to bolt in, includes all panels, hardware and weld tabs
Symmetric design with simple layout, simply cut a hole for you T-Case shifter
1/8 steel plate between the seats welds in to provide a flat surface to mount shifters or cutting brakes
Floor panels have a integral flange that mounts the bottom of the side panels"

 

3003-H14 Aluminum Sheet - (ASTM B209, QQ-A-250/2) Excellent weldability, formability, with good corrosion resistance make 3003 Aluminum Sheet a popular and economical choice. 3003 Aluminum Sheet has a smooth, shiny finish and is popular for many cosmetic and industrial applications, including: decorative trim, fuel tanks, food & chemical handling, trailer siding & roofing, etc.
Non-magnetic, Brinell = 40, Tensile = 22,000, Yield = 21,000 (+/-)

5052-H32 Aluminum Sheet - (ASTM B209, QQ-A-250/8) Superior corrosion resistance, good weldability, with excellent formability, makes 5052 Aluminum Sheet a common choice for chemical, marine or saltwater applications. 5052 Aluminum Sheet applications include: tanks, marine hardware, boat hulls, etc.
Non-magnetic, Brinell = 60, Tensile = 33,000, Yield = 28,000 (+/-)

6061-T651 Aluminum Sheet - (ASTM B209, QQ-A-250/11) Offers a combination of increased strength, corrosion resistance, and machinability making it the most widely used aluminum grade. 6061 Aluminum Sheet is heat treatable, resists cracking due to stress, is easy to weld and machine, but limited on formability. 6061 Aluminum Sheet is ideal for structural framing, base plates, gussetts, motorcycle & automotive parts, etc.
Non-magnetic, Brinell = 95, Tensile = 45,000, Yield = 40,000 (+/-)

3003 will bend, 5052 will bend better and is a little stronger than 3003, 6061 isn't going to bend very well, more straight panel stuff.

 

Check here for alum drops, I believe HDPE is cutting board material for skids as well.
http://www.schupan.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2&Itemid=2

 

Do they really have to say non magnetic?

 

Thinking this is where my cell might end up.....thoughts?

Obviously mounted to the chassis not supported by straps and wood lol.