[jbsjunk]

I see a trend happening. At least he's consistent.

 

[SANDVIPR]

That thing turned out sweet! I can't believe how quickly you built it!!!!

 

[CheapThrillB2]

I can't believe how long it took :sonicjay:.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

Mounted front lights. Worked on cleaning up the electrical but ran out of wire. Redid front brake lines and hoses. Better, but think I am gonna end having to do the rear to.

 

[nd4spd71]

:thumb:

 

[KennyOffroad]

Nice ! :rock:

 

[whiterhino]

what MC do you have? You have to watch the pressure ratings with assisted or boosted MCs

Stock booster.
Early Corvette MC. (don't recall exact one)

I have never blown a line standing on the brakes hard. (sorta :teehee I did blow one of JohnnyJ's while at KOH. We had the brakes locked with the shutoffs off during his pitman arm repair. I hopped in to drive it on down the hill & no one remembered that we needed to turn the brakes back on. I started to roll and stabbed the brakes, blowing a line. But, that's in a deadheaded situation.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

Rewired the dash on the buggy, wired in the headlights, installed another small relay box to run the headlights donated from the part out explorer. Also was really nice that I kept the oe body harness from that explorer. With all the various wire codes and gauge of wires it made it real cheap and easy to rewire things as I could easily separate things and wire accordingly.

Looked over the buggy closer from last weekend, Sarah did manage to smash the inside lip of the RF rim. Has a pretty huge dent in the bead area. Surprised its not hitting the caliper as it goes round and round. Also I apparently didn't give enough clearance of the front driveshaft and exhaust. At one point while she was driving I thought I heard something rubbing. At least I found it. I also wired in my front winch dash controller. Installed a new temperature gauge. Replumbed the oil pressure line to gauge. Removed rear driveshaft to remake for a longer one.

I need to figure out how I am gonna hook up a brake switch, so I can have brake lights........I should have ordered the master cylinder that had the port for cruise control.

 

[s.hembree]

Rewired the dash on the buggy, wired in the headlights, installed another small relay box to run the headlights donated from the part out explorer. Also was really nice that I kept the oe body harness from that explorer. With all the various wire codes and gauge of wires it made it real cheap and easy to rewire things as I could easily separate things and wire accordingly.

Looked over the buggy closer from last weekend, Sarah did manage to smash the inside lip of the RF rim. Has a pretty huge dent in the bead area. Surprised its not hitting the caliper as it goes round and round. Also I apparently didn't give enough clearance of the front driveshaft and exhaust. At one point while she was driving I thought I heard something rubbing. At least I found it. I also wired in my front winch dash controller. Installed a new temperature gauge. Replumbed the oil pressure line to gauge. Removed rear driveshaft to remake for a longer one.

I need to figure out how I am gonna hook up a brake switch, so I can have brake lights........I should have ordered the master cylinder that had the port for cruise control.

Just get an older style pressure switch. They're usually 1/8 npt so you can just get a brass "t" and put it inline.

 

[whiterhino]

Or mount a normally open plunger switch on the brake pedal.

 

[jhnyquest]

Or mount a normally open plunger switch on the brake pedal.

This is what I did.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

Replumned the buggy, while its the best brakes have been so far, its still not good enough.

Running the same size calipers, same master, same style of lines as the eb, only difference is booster and pedal. The pedal travels to far and I am not getting good stopping pressure. It does not feel like a power/manual brake booster issue. It feels like a bad master. Like the pressure is bleeding off and not holding. I have no leaks. Checked the rod in the booster for proper adjustment. I have bled it every which way.

Thinking of warranting the master and see what happens.

 

[jbsjunk]

Can't remember what your pedal arrangement was, but I remember on some models, there was a power brake position for the rod and a manual brake position on the brake pedal. If those were opposite, it could make braking more difficult.

 

[frdboy]

Can you block off all the ports on the MC? If you do that and the pedal gets high and hard it is not a MC problem.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

I tried that with the rear. Vice griped the nylon line just off the master before I replaced all the nylon lines and it made no difference in how it felt. Its loaded in the box truck so I can bring it to work and set up the alignment and I plan to dick with more in the a.m. probably gonna warranty the master out .

 

[frdboy]

Do you plug them off when you bench bleed it? That is how I normally do, plug off all the ports and pump it till piston movement is less than 1/8" Sometimes you have to tilt it in the vice to get all the trapped air out.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

Clamp in vice, install brake lines to ports and bend the lines into brake fluid and submerge the ends. Slowly pump master pushing air out and pulling fluid back in when releasing piston. Repeat till no more air can be seen coming out of the lines.

 

[frdboy]

I used to do it that way as well, the nice part about blocking ports off is you know all the air is out when you can't move the piston much. If you are carefull removing lines you don't even have to bleed the brakes after a mc replacement. I would say 3 out of 5 I don't do anymore bleeding on the car after it is installed.

 

[firehawk]

Hydroboost brakes rock.

I have it on my 71 Bronco, a Mustang hydroboost tied into the Explorer pump.

Or is that too much along with full hydro steering?

 

[CheapThrillB2]

The brakes on the EB were great. Never had an issue. That was with a 96 f250 master cylinder and booster. Now I have installed almost all of the same parts trying to get the same brake feel.