Serious question... What are all the differences between comp and non comp grizzlys?

 

As I understand it, the springs are stronger in the comp version so it is less likely to disengage. At least that's what Dale told me.

I wanted to get some slippage because the spool sucks on pavement with the stickies but I still want it to hook up hard.

 

Hmm.

 

When a comp fails, it locks like a spool. The non comps go open

 

Even better.:thumb:

 

Gotcha

 

I have a new non comp also. Not in yet. I was just curious the differences.

 

:woot: first in club comp. Beefy, kyle m, and myself killed it.

 

Nice job!!

 

Your team must have had a good spotter:finger::teehee:

 

Must have video proof :finger:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhnpqxT9zBk&feature=youtu.be

 

 

:sonicjay: I was serious about my making that climb. Game face on lol.

 

:sonicjay:
Nice

 

I noticed that also lol

 

John looks pretty determined in the second pic :woot:

 

Where is that notch at?

Congrats on the win guys. Did Erin give you a sticker?:teehee:

 

A little better reference on the notch. Beefy started knocking it down before breaking his tcase.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKTdqz9yiWo&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

It was in the big valley. Was one hell of a washout when we started. Beefy broke his transfer case in it. Had a tire wide trench that had a 5ft wall in it.

 

had low camera battery so its pieced together

 

Time for some rear aluminum lower links. Both rears are now bent. Haven't looked over the rest for any damage yet.

But I do need to look into small driveability concern. Seems once warmed up I get a SES light and my temps go up a little more then normal and sounds like its spark knocking a little. Thinking I may have a bad o2 sensor.

 

 

Finally getting a feel for the struts and the new suspension. Feeling more confident with it on obstacles.

Grizzly locker worked well to.

Really starting to like the MTR's as well. We ran the hump trail yesterday, and while it was a lot wetter then usual, they really seemed to grab the rocks and logs better then my ltbs did. This was the first real comparison I have had between the two where I have used them both in the same place.

 

I was going to go aluminum because mine were bent. My originals were 1-3/4 x 1/4 wall & they bent shortly after I built them. When I looked at the weight savings versus cost, I couldn't justify it. Instead I went 1-3/4 x 3/8 wall and then drilled & tapped my 1-1/4 shank joints in instead of having to weld in bungs. I couldn't find anyone who had bent their links using that size and so far, neither have I.
My steel links weigh 6 pounds more than aluminum would. I forget the cost difference but it was significant, like $75 more.

Interesting that you're liking the MTR's. I still don't know what I am going to do when I get rid of the Krawlers.

 

I had every intention of replacing all my lower links. But before spending the $ I wanted to make sure I was happy with how it performed. I think mine are all 2" .250 if I remember correctly.

 

good talking with you and playing sunday morning man. congrats on the competition win.

 

FYI I looked up my old numbers.
DOM = $12/ ft
Alum = $26/ ft
Figure on 4 links @ 3ft each, difference is $168.

DOM = 16.5 pounds/ ft
Alum = 11.3 pounds/ ft
Weight savings = 62 pounds.

To me, it wasn't worth the extra cash to save that little weight.

I don't see this as a right or wrong way to go........... purely personal choice. My one other reason I liked the steel is that if necessary, it's weldable. Let a jam nut come loose & wabble out the tapped hole on aluminum & you are screwed. With steel, weld the fawker up and go back to wheeling.

 

FYI I looked up my old numbers.
DOM = $12/ ft
Alum = $26/ ft
Figure on 4 links @ 3ft each, difference is $168.

Does that include bungs and time to weld them in? Not that most people measure time, but having done both styles. Aluminum definitely wins as far as hassle goes.

If you're going to go with steel I would suggest going lighter wall than 3/8 using chromoly and getting them heat treated. Especially if its for a buggy, a full bodied rig who cares, its already heavy so use 3/8 wall. :finger:

I run 2.25" AL lowers on my buggy since thats what Branik recommends for racing. They have held up great so far after over a dozen wheeling trips and two TREC races I did last year.

 

bend straight with press, weld angle iron on, wheel :teehee:

 

Keep bent ones as spare

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4

 

At the rate you are going you should carry a whole spare rig............:teehee:

 

He Does

 

my lower links are sleeved chevy torsion bars.... im told they wont break not sure i like the weight though.