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Johnny's GoatBuilt JHF buggy build

214K views 993 replies 64 participants last post by  JohnnyJ  
#1 · (Edited)
At post 110 I changed my mind and decided I would build a buggy instead of the Wag. The Wag continues to wait for it's next build.

At post 187 I ordered up a GoatBuilt JHF chassis to hopefully speed this up. (edit: nope)

Current Build plan:
GoatBuilt JHF Chassis, 108" wheelbase, "jeep" hood and grille
2007 Ford F250 Dana 60, 5.38, Sparty locker, JHF high-steer
- narrowed 4" to use 78 F250 axleshaft on the long side, using factory 1550 shafts
1998 Chevy K3500 14-bolt, shaved, 5.38, Detroit, 1/2t chevy disc brakes
39" BFG Krawler Red labels on KMC Machete Beadlocks
2001 GMC Yukon XL 6.0L LQ4
  • Holley TerminatorX EFI
  • Champ oil pan (high-ish clearance, baffled, steel)
  • Dorman LS2 car intake and Warr cable throttle body
  • Holley fuel rails with late-model 6.0 truck injectors (EV6, E85 flow rates, 12613412)
  • Goatbuilt accessory brackets, TC pump on driver's side, alt on passenger
  • GM 706 heads
  • BTR Truck Norris cam
TH400 built by Tranny Tom, Reverse Manual with Winters/WOD shifter
Atlas transfer case, 3.0 low range
Fox 2.5 air shocks
PSC Full Hydro, 2.5x10" ram, TC-pump
Mastercraft cheap seats with Impact 5-point harnesses
Griffin 31x19 radiator, Derale 16927 shroud and twin fans
Goatbuilt fuel tank and factory fuel pump
Magnaflow muffler mpe-12649

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I bought my Wagoneer in 1997. It was my first 4x4 and I bought it so that me and my friends could go camping and have room for our gear since we all drove econoboxes. That fall I ended up moving to Germany for 18 months and it went into storage.

When I got back I rebuilt the AMC 360 with the help of a friend, and we did enough maintenance on the rest to get it on the road. Over the next few years it got a 4" lift and went from 31s and then 35s when I put a 3" body lift. We did some wheeling with it and eventually I put it on 33 Stampers from my old Wrangler.

In around 2005 it was parked due to lack of time and using any spare time on my Wrangler. A few years later we stole the drive train for the TREC Wagoneer, and it has sat since.

Over the summer I got out of racing, bought a RZR and drug this back in the shop. I'm thinking I want to get it back on the road and trails.

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#988 ·
I haven't updated here in a while. The short week before Thanksgiving I was at Rugged Mountain Ranch in Oklahoma when my buggy lifted a fuel rail when a nutsert in the plastic intake pulled out. This caused a fire that burned my wiring harness and destroyed my seats. As part of project creep over the winter, I decided I would upgrade to an iBooster since I was rewiring anyway.

The iBooster uses a 26mm master cylinder, which would have been overwhelmed with my stock front 2007 d60 calipers and rear 1/2-ton chevy calipers. So I started off thinking I'd use some junkyard 2009 ford flex calipers that gave me a reasonable hydraulic ratio.

I started with the rear calipers and got them to fit, but I couldn't make it work on the front without machining the knuckles, and I didn't want to go down that path. So I did some research and ended up with Howe 33658 calipers up front that are the same casting size as K10 calipers but with 2.625" pistons instead of 2.94 or 3.15 pistons. This matches up with the flex calipers.

On the rear I ended up reusing the 2003 Yukon XL 3/4-ton rear rotors instead of going to 1999 E350 rear rotors. They have the right bore for 14-bolt hubs and are a 12.99" diameter instead of 12.83". The flex pads fit perfectly on the yukon rotors.
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front calipers using original mounting provisions on brackets that I made. The front uses 1999 E350 rotors with the center bore opened up.
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#989 ·
To fit the iBooster, I had to make an offset mount. The brake pedal is in the same location as when I had manual brakes. I moved the brake shut off valves from right by the master in my old setup to something I could easily reach when belted in.

This weekend I'm headed to Good Evening Ranch in West Virginia, so it'll be a good test of how I like the iBooster. It feels good on my test laps around the block.

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#990 ·
Since I had a bunch of rewiring to do, I decided to move the ECM from under my switch panel to the B-pillar firewall. The terminator wiring harness was perfect length to do this, and prevented me from having to wrap it up under the hood. So I built a new center console and the box at the back cover the ECM to protect it from the elements.

The old center console was thrown together with a plan to be temporary, but was good enough to not mess with. I'm pretty happy with the new version that extends the whole tunnel and hides wiring and plumbing.

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#993 ·
Back from the weekend, and 100% happy with the brakes on the trail.

End of the day Saturday I tested it by driving off a big ledge. Old brakes I'd struggle to hold it back, needed lots of leg to hold. Now it's moderate pressure and it's got more holding pressure than anything I've driven. I was able to creep down the ledge with great control. Very happy.