Curious if Holley has you adjust the IAC count to a certain number using the throttle body screw. With HPtuners, you adjust the screw until you get to a "good" (60-75 or something, can't remember now) count number so that the IAC has room to move both ways to control the idle. If you don't do this with Holley, you may be too close to the high or low limit of the IAC not allowing it to correct the airlfow in a timely manner. HPtuners has a cross sectional area calcualtion it uses for airflow as well. When going to a 92mm TB, the cross secitonal area had to be changed and the IAC set to the proper "count" when at idle. Doing that reduced the "sensitivity" of the pedal because the ECU had the right area calculation and enough travel of the IAC to correct without under or overshooting. Another thing that'll add to that "jumpiness" is your timing advance coming on and off idle. If you have large change in your timing tables between the 2 areas, changing the throttle body won't really help that. Hopefully some of that made sense.

Test the timing by looking at where your tables go to when you come off idle and make the timing in that whole region match your idle timing value. You should do a manual override of the timing and move it up and down to achieve the lowest map number when you're setting your idle timing. People either do all of this stuff or they take the "Holley take the wheel" mentality. Doing those things should help alot with the off idle sensitivity. It won't fix the whistle, but that's just some die grinder work though. Childs play compared to the buggy you built. Good luck, hopefully that wasn't too much mumbo jumbo.

 

That's good info. I am currently on "Holley take the wheel" mode, but I do have a craptop that I can use for tuning. The only time I've been frustrated with throttle is out west on steep climbs when you want to just barely crawl. What I have found is that I am trying to slightly (and I mean slightly, like 0-1% throttle) to just get the wheels to start turning.

I've thought there's a few things that could be impacting me in that situation:
1. should I add more trans fluid; maybe I'm starving the pump a little at steep angles
2. lower the stall in my TC; which seems like voodoo and could be expensive to get into
3. mess with throttle & efi

and 3 has many things, including what you just mentioned. I hadn't thought about 3 much other than "hey let's try the smaller TB and see if it makes a difference." But your comments make a lot of sense. I wonder how much control over spark I have at low throttle angles.

We are headed to PA and there could be some climbs that are maybe similar to out west. The weather will dictate what it's like. I figure it's a cheap science experiment.

For something like Harlan where throttle control wasn't as big of a deal, it was no concern; but in Sand hollow like in the pics from a few pages back the technical low wheel speed part plays a bigger role. Reality is I'll likely only make it out there once a year given the day and longer drive times.

 

Tell me more about the PA climbs like out west. You talking about at Rousch Creek?

I have a slightly used lower stall TC you can try that came out of a Diesel. It may have a little gunk in it but don't worry - it'll be fine.

I like the tool tray.

 

In the pics of the AOAA trail there are rocks that should have us climbing reasonable ledges. If it's dry I hope that it will be technical and not all bump bump bump. There is the comp section in the front of RC.

Uh, thanks but no thanks on that TC. I'd like to lower it by 100 or 200rpm, not or 1000 or 2000...

Bolted the packout mount from ORA to the plate. Have the tabs on the bumper side in. I need to make the mounts on the radiator side. The expanded steel is wire wheeled and welded on.

 

That looks really slick with the expanded metal below it. Nice job!

You're headed to AOAA? I've been watching the Youtube content coming out of there lately and that place looks like a blast.

 

Yes, we have 4 buggies going next month. All on reds. 2 rear steer and 2 drag axle.

 

I'm definitely looking forward to hearing all about it when you guys get back.

 

Rear panel is on. Waiting on deutsch connector to finish up the wiring. I feel it needs more, but I'm guessing once I start adding ORV stickers it should start to fill in.

 

I had picked up this TYT TH-8600 a bit ago, and finally got around to installing it. I wanted the antenna tucked away from destructive objects, and since I don't need max transmission I put it in a dead space.

I wasn't sure if I'd like the radio location, so I made a mount that I could hose clamp to the cage. My sense is that it will stay there forever, but whatever. Apparently now I need a mag mount for the handset to be one of the cool kids.

Not sure I care, but it's not supported by Chirp. The app they sent with it worked fine for copying the frequency list that I have from my handheld.

 

I'll snap a pic of my mag mount when I make it to the garage today.

 

Radio location looks good to me. Out of the way, but convenient to use.
The whole buggy is looking good!
Glad to see you out enjoying it.

 

I got turned on to these mounts from my son im law. The fire dept uses them. Super strong.

 

You do need to have the IAC calibrated. The computer expects a certain orifice size in its flow calculations for "steps" so if it's not in the right spot it will have a difficult time "hunting".

You can take some timing out under 1200rpm and that should solve the "throttle granularity" issue. Often people struggle with the dexterity at low speeds because timing is picking up and right after that the torque converter clutch locks up.

 

You do need to have the IAC calibrated. The computer expects a certain orifice size in its flow calculations for "steps" so if it's not in the right spot it will have a difficult time "hunting".

You can take some timing out under 1200rpm and that should solve the "throttle granularity" issue. Often people struggle with the dexterity at low speeds because timing is picking up and right after that the torque converter clutch locks up.

Another thing to add is what does the RPM/MAP resolution look like? If you have the RPM bins on your VE, AFR, and timing tables set far apart, the resolution is horrible and will not change fast. I always set mine close together from idle to cruise.

 

The mag mount for mic is cool.....But who doesn't like hanging it and always thinking it will smack you in the head while off-road? LOL. I'll defiantly have to switch.

 

Damn you guys for shaming me into tuning my EFI. I've been living on the autotune. I've got the craptop in the shop for radio tuning, so I'll download what the terminator has learned and start poking around.

 

The Autotune function works great...... if you have the base shizz set up correctly. Holley makes it simple with the base cal files for the LS. Also a lot of good videos on youtube. Get with @Mihlfeldl2005 he had some guy remote tune his jeep.

 

John, shoot me a text and I can pass along his contact. He's been great to work with this far. He's helped me diagnose a lot of the problems I overlooked during the build by identifying problems in the data

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

Hooked up the craptop tonight and grabbed some data. I did the IAC tune procedure. I'll be interested to see how it idles and plays off idle.

I pulled the stock spark table. I haven't messed with this at all. The fuel learn map is below that. I have never "transfer learning to base" so I would expect that this what it has corrected for since getting it running a year ago.

I'm shocked it learned above 6000rpm. I know I've tapped the rev limiter a few times. I looked up the stock limiter and they claim it's 6000rpm, so I dropped the limiter back to that since the engine is all stock internals.

 

Working on fit up, then I'll skin the radiator side with some expanded metal.

 

People have no issues spinning a stock LS up to 7200 RPM. I think that is where mine is set.


Nice rear

 

I was spinning my stock 5.3 other then cam and springs to 7200 with 25 psi of boost lol. Many many times. Didn't even the gap the rings. But was on e85.

 

Here are my fuel and timing tables. I run megasquirt so I do not have as big of a table as Holley offers I have my RPM break points below idle, around idle, and off idle. This allows for great control with timing and fuel. Really I could start it at 900 and be ok. I then have the RPM points close for where I spend most of the time in steady state cruising.

I can run 87 octane and be detonation free. I'm sure I could add timing in areas, which I may play with in time to get more power....but what I have works.

I still need to go through the VE table and smooth the cells so they are gradually increasing. Not rise and fall and rise again. I dial back my O2 correction % and make changes.

 

You have definitely been in "holley take the wheel" mode haha. It's a great system honestly. What is the engine combo exactly? Do the IAC learn/calibrate or whatever it's called. Call it a hunch but I'm willing to bet 12 deg at idle is not high enough. You should get the engine up to temp, then move idle timing up 1 degree at a time. You'll be able to see the Map value shrink, then grow again. You want your idle timing set where the map value is the lowest(pulling the most vacuum). Then you want to know what map/rpm area you move to when coming off idle in the situation you mentioned. Make sure you don't have a big timing jump between idle and that specific area. When you get more into it you can look at using your inputs to create a custom table that subracts timing from the table above idle and you can flip that switch in that instance, cutting power down, keeping you from getting too much momentum out west. The system is very flexible with the user inputs so there are alot of things you can to for situational things.

Stock idle on a 6.0 is 16, my 6.0 is set to idle at 20 for reference. My chevelle is at 23 I believe.

 

What is the engine combo exactly?

Setup is stock 2001 6.0 LQ4. It has a Dorman LS2 intake for hood clearance and 50lb injectors that fit that intake. Running stock truck cable throttle body.

Call it a hunch but I'm willing to bet 12 deg at idle is not high enough. You should get the engine up to temp, then move idle timing up 1 degree at a time. You'll be able to see the Map value shrink, then grow again. You want your idle timing set where the map value is the lowest(pulling the most vacuum). Then you want to know what map/rpm area you move to when coming off idle in the situation you mentioned. Make sure you don't have a big timing jump between idle and that specific area. When you get more into it you can look at using your inputs to create a custom table that subracts timing from the table above idle and you can flip that switch in that instance, cutting power down, keeping you from getting too much momentum out west. The system is very flexible with the user inputs so there are alot of things you can to for situational things.

Stock idle on a 6.0 is 16, my 6.0 is set to idle at 20 for reference. My chevelle is at 23 I believe.

 

https://sites.google.com/site/sloppywiki/tunecabinetlook in the tune cabinet at the tunes that closer reflect your setup.

I think my camaro is also I the 20s at idle. It's easier to keep it from stalling going from high rpm to idle in a hurry.

 

Depending on what your afr is set to at given points, you fuel learn % s aren't terrible for out of the box.

 

I so...want to turbo my jeep. I have all the parts....its so hard to restrain myself! alksdjf;lashdf;khas;kdjfhal;ksdhfash;DFJ;ASDFAS;DF

I use to aim for 14.7....then realized with todays fuels that is far to lean. Dropped it down to 14.1 and it made a huge difference with drivability. Something to look at.

Amazing what you can do with these computer systems. Either keep it easy or go full retard and have it control everything.

 

Johnny send me your email. I'll send you the file from my jeep and camaro tonight.