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Johnny's GoatBuilt JHF buggy build

214K views 993 replies 64 participants last post by  JohnnyJ  
#1 · (Edited)
At post 110 I changed my mind and decided I would build a buggy instead of the Wag. The Wag continues to wait for it's next build.

At post 187 I ordered up a GoatBuilt JHF chassis to hopefully speed this up. (edit: nope)

Current Build plan:
GoatBuilt JHF Chassis, 108" wheelbase, "jeep" hood and grille
2007 Ford F250 Dana 60, 5.38, Sparty locker, JHF high-steer
- narrowed 4" to use 78 F250 axleshaft on the long side, using factory 1550 shafts
1998 Chevy K3500 14-bolt, shaved, 5.38, Detroit, 1/2t chevy disc brakes
39" BFG Krawler Red labels on KMC Machete Beadlocks
2001 GMC Yukon XL 6.0L LQ4
  • Holley TerminatorX EFI
  • Champ oil pan (high-ish clearance, baffled, steel)
  • Dorman LS2 car intake and Warr cable throttle body
  • Holley fuel rails with late-model 6.0 truck injectors (EV6, E85 flow rates, 12613412)
  • Goatbuilt accessory brackets, TC pump on driver's side, alt on passenger
  • GM 706 heads
  • BTR Truck Norris cam
TH400 built by Tranny Tom, Reverse Manual with Winters/WOD shifter
Atlas transfer case, 3.0 low range
Fox 2.5 air shocks
PSC Full Hydro, 2.5x10" ram, TC-pump
Mastercraft cheap seats with Impact 5-point harnesses
Griffin 31x19 radiator, Derale 16927 shroud and twin fans
Goatbuilt fuel tank and factory fuel pump
Magnaflow muffler mpe-12649

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I bought my Wagoneer in 1997. It was my first 4x4 and I bought it so that me and my friends could go camping and have room for our gear since we all drove econoboxes. That fall I ended up moving to Germany for 18 months and it went into storage.

When I got back I rebuilt the AMC 360 with the help of a friend, and we did enough maintenance on the rest to get it on the road. Over the next few years it got a 4" lift and went from 31s and then 35s when I put a 3" body lift. We did some wheeling with it and eventually I put it on 33 Stampers from my old Wrangler.

In around 2005 it was parked due to lack of time and using any spare time on my Wrangler. A few years later we stole the drive train for the TREC Wagoneer, and it has sat since.

Over the summer I got out of racing, bought a RZR and drug this back in the shop. I'm thinking I want to get it back on the road and trails.

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#806 ·
Glad to see its working well for you.

How are you venting your axles/tcase/trans? Do they have individual filters or stock type jeep breather caps? Or do you route them all into a vented catch can?
Hoses up to frame and those little factory style one way valves for diffs. Engine and gas tank have ebay&n filters. The trans and t-case loop up and over then have the check valves.

Pretty much. I’ve wiped away rust with WD40 and a green scotch bright. It’s on the barn and pretty muddy, so it should be a mess when I get to it.
 
#807 ·
Weighed the buggy yesterday. 3932# with 58/42 front to rear weight distribution. A little heavier than I expected, but overall happy with the outcome. I don't think I want to invest the money to try and lighten it up. So it is what it is.

I'm hoping to get started on skins with the time off from work this week. We will see how that goes as various appointments and other stuff comes up.
 
#820 ·
I have a few fixes and upgrades before the next trip.

I have a Warr throttle body, but it has whistled like crazy at idle. I also really don't need the 92mm opening vs truck 80mm unit, so job one was to put on an adapter and go back to stock truck throttle body. I hope the slightly smaller throttle body provides more control slightly off throttle. If I decide to go back to the Warr throttle body, I saw a video where a guy did a port job on the IAC passage and quieted it down. Nice part was that I could reuse the airbox I built earlier, so that saved a bunch of work.

I need to get my ham radio installed and I'd like to get the Milwaukee pack-outs installed in the cargo area. Plus a few other jobs.
 
#822 · (Edited)
Playing around with the rear cargo area. I need to pick up some 12ga sheet metal to move along.

I think what I'll do is cut out a border with some reinforcements through the middle and weld the expanded metal under it. This should keep it reasonably light weight, and not hold water. Plan to it add some tabs and make the trunk floor removable.

I have a cad file for the tailgate, so I'm planning on cutting that out of aluminum and using these tailights:


After that, I may add some expanded metal to make removable sides to create a basket, and allow me to throw stuff like my tow strap in the back. We'll see. Not totally sold on that.

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#827 ·
Yep, with LED taillights the current draw is minimal, so I don't bother with a relay. I had a spare circuit in the fuse block, so I run a 5amp fuse (or maybe less) through the switch and back to the lights. No turn signals at this time, so the wiring is pretty basic with just brake and running light that I tied to headlight switch.

 
#832 · (Edited)
Got the trunk pan cut out tonight. Next time out I will get the press brake put back together and bend the wings on the sides and start fitment. Not sure how visible the bend ticks are, but I put some in to help me line it up for forming.

The middle triangle is hole is short to allow for the milwaukee pack out stand to bolt in that section.

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#833 ·
I got the bending die setup in the press. Worked pretty well, but I couldn't get it to bite on the wings, so I had to do some hand forming as it was too much for the sheet metal brake. They still need a little massaging.

Had to do a little clean up in a few spots, but otherwise it fit pretty well. Up next final fitment, mount to chassis, add the expanded steel to the bottom side, and mount the tool box.

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