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Johnny's GoatBuilt JHF buggy build

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214K views 993 replies 64 participants last post by  JohnnyJ  
#1 · (Edited)
At post 110 I changed my mind and decided I would build a buggy instead of the Wag. The Wag continues to wait for it's next build.

At post 187 I ordered up a GoatBuilt JHF chassis to hopefully speed this up. (edit: nope)

Current Build plan:
GoatBuilt JHF Chassis, 108" wheelbase, "jeep" hood and grille
2007 Ford F250 Dana 60, 5.38, Sparty locker, JHF high-steer
- narrowed 4" to use 78 F250 axleshaft on the long side, using factory 1550 shafts
1998 Chevy K3500 14-bolt, shaved, 5.38, Detroit, 1/2t chevy disc brakes
39" BFG Krawler Red labels on KMC Machete Beadlocks
2001 GMC Yukon XL 6.0L LQ4
  • Holley TerminatorX EFI
  • Champ oil pan (high-ish clearance, baffled, steel)
  • Dorman LS2 car intake and Warr cable throttle body
  • Holley fuel rails with late-model 6.0 truck injectors (EV6, E85 flow rates, 12613412)
  • Goatbuilt accessory brackets, TC pump on driver's side, alt on passenger
  • GM 706 heads
  • BTR Truck Norris cam
TH400 built by Tranny Tom, Reverse Manual with Winters/WOD shifter
Atlas transfer case, 3.0 low range
Fox 2.5 air shocks
PSC Full Hydro, 2.5x10" ram, TC-pump
Mastercraft cheap seats with Impact 5-point harnesses
Griffin 31x19 radiator, Derale 16927 shroud and twin fans
Goatbuilt fuel tank and factory fuel pump
Magnaflow muffler mpe-12649

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I bought my Wagoneer in 1997. It was my first 4x4 and I bought it so that me and my friends could go camping and have room for our gear since we all drove econoboxes. That fall I ended up moving to Germany for 18 months and it went into storage.

When I got back I rebuilt the AMC 360 with the help of a friend, and we did enough maintenance on the rest to get it on the road. Over the next few years it got a 4" lift and went from 31s and then 35s when I put a 3" body lift. We did some wheeling with it and eventually I put it on 33 Stampers from my old Wrangler.

In around 2005 it was parked due to lack of time and using any spare time on my Wrangler. A few years later we stole the drive train for the TREC Wagoneer, and it has sat since.

Over the summer I got out of racing, bought a RZR and drug this back in the shop. I'm thinking I want to get it back on the road and trails.

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#696 ·
Yeah, trying to make it driveable. Will still have many things to complete, but I want to start troubleshooting.

Last night whiterhino stopped by and helped mock up the brake pedal mounting. I need to get the gas pedal and make sure it doesn't interfere. We also roughed in the radiator plumbing. That took up some real estate, but I think we found a path.

I've been ordering electrical parts. Have fuse panel, switches, battery terminals, and relays on order. Trying to figure out how much wire I need from Wire Barn. They sell GXL wire, which is much nicer than vatozone sourced stuff.

Since the Holley Terminator includes all the engine wiring, that reduces what I need to hook up. Here's what I have so far.. any missed items would be appreciated:

Relay
Radiator Fan 1
Radiator Fan 2
Transmission Fan
Fuel Pump

Switch Circuit Switch Type
Starter (On)/Off
Ignition On/Off
Headlights On On/Off
Headlights High-Low On/On
Horn (On)/Off
Winch Arm On/Off
Winch Control (On)/Off /(On)

Circuit / Wire size
Starter Power 4
Starter trigger 12
Alternator Main 4
Alternator Excite ?
Headlight High 16
Headlight Low 16
Headlight Gnd 16
Taillight Running 16
Taillight Brake 16
Taillight Gnd 16
Horn Power 16
Horn Gnd 16
Transmission Fan Power 12
Transmission Fan Gnd 12
Transmission Fan Switch 16
Fuel Pump Power 12
Fuel Pump Gnd 12
Radiator Fan 1 Power 12
Radiator Fan 1 Gnd 12
Radiator Fan 2 Power 12
Radiator Fan 2 Gnd 12
Winch In
Winch Out

First round of wiring I'm not going to try for rock lights or turn signals. Even winch wiring is suspect, as I can always snake the controller into vehicle. I'm trying to stick with 12ga for higher amp, 16ga for lower. Based on radiator fan spec, it draws 25amp per fan, so 12ga at the length I need is good with some safety. Head and tail lights are LED, so those should be fine with 16ga.
 
#698 ·
K4 switch uses () for momentary, so I have that for starter, horn, and winch. K4s are what I put in the race car after killing off the original switches in a few races. The K4 are "triple sealed" and were in it when I sold it, so at least 3-4 seasons of abuse without issue.

I have 80amp relays coming. Not sure if I believe they can handle a full 80, but I figure they just have to live through the in-rush current as the fan spins up. I think in-rush is the killer for relays and taxes the wiring. I could run 10amp feeds to the fan. I have done that in the past for single 19" fan, but these duals are a bit smaller and claim less amperage.