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Discussion starter · #342 · (Edited)
Axle rough placement. This is approx 4" above planned ride height. I'm happy with where the diff is side to side. Still lots of packaging to do, but I think it'll a good path to get to the front carrier bearing.

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Looking at Jesse's build, his front axle is about 3" to the front of the chassis than where I randomly slid it in. With that,I think I may slide the drivetrain forward about an inch. That gives a little more room around the torque converter, and a little more room under the seat.
 
Discussion starter · #344 ·
Was on vacation with the family for a week, but got out to the shop on Sunday and move the drivetrain forward 1". Trans mount is pretty much done, now working on engine mounts.

Ordered up 39" Krawlers and KMC Machete beadlocks. Wallet is on fire, but hoping to finish up engine mounts and get going on suspension. Wanted to have tires and wheels here to check for clearances.
 
Was on vacation with the family for a week, but got out to the shop on Sunday and move the drivetrain forward 1". Trans mount is pretty much done, now working on engine mounts.

Ordered up 39" Krawlers and KMC Machete beadlocks. Wallet is on fire, but hoping to finish up engine mounts and get going on suspension. Wanted to have tires and wheels here to check for clearances.
You still going to run the headers that I saw when I borrowed your trailer?
 
Discussion starter · #347 ·
You "think" you ordered tires. You may have paid for them but I'm not sure they will arrive in your barn. :naughty: :d:
That's my fear.

You still going to run the headers that I saw when I borrowed your trailer?
Pretty sure, but I'm going to flip them and run them pointing back. They need a little massaging, but fit pretty well. Will need 90* boots on the plug wires or risk burning them off.
 
Discussion starter · #354 · (Edited)
I reinstalled wheel studs in a hub I had redrilled for 8x6.5 and checked fitment of a wheel. It slid together nicely. I was 99% there would be no issue, but it's always nice when a plan comes together.

Coming along! I was going to go KMC to get rid of the Racelines that I hate, but Collin hooked me up with some Dirty Life's. I'm digging them so far.
Yeah, compared to Racelines on the last car, these seem quite a bit beefier. I had looked at Dirty Life's a number of times, but couldn't find anybody with feedback to see how they are.

I went with these since you can get a replacement through Summit in a few days. So if I do destroy one, I knew I could get replacements easily. In the past I've had to jump through hoops to get beadlocks, and I'm sick of that.


Pretty sure, but I'm going to flip them and run them pointing back. They need a little massaging, but fit pretty well. Will need 90* boots on the plug wires or risk burning them off.
Was over at Hoser's this weekend and saw he's running MSD 90* fittings on his plug. I may steal a plug wire next time I'm over there and verify it will work with my stuff.
 
I reinstalled wheel studs in a hub I had redrilled for 8x6.5 and checked fitment of a wheel. It slid together nicely. I was 99% there would be no issue, but it's always nice when a plan comes together.



Yeah, compared to Racelines on the last car, these seem quite a bit beefier. I had looked at Dirty Life's a number of times, but couldn't find anybody with feedback to see how they are.

I went with these since you can get a replacement through Summit in a few days. So if I do destroy one, I knew I could get replacements easily. In the past I've had to jump through hoops to get beadlocks, and I'm sick of that.
Yep, Raceline is HORRIBLE. They give you the run around and burn the clock knowing you likely have a trip and force you to buy another. I've broken 3 or 4 and each time the break has been different, broke in half, flat spotted with a lip crack, still round with a 4-5" crack. They're just JUNK, plain and simple. I couldn't pass the Dirty Life deal up for the price he gave me. I dig the KMC's though, till Dirty Life gets more feedback like you say KMC is the strongest non forged wheel out there IMHO.
 
Discussion starter · #357 ·
And here's today's project. I want to be able to pull the motor mounts out of the way so it's easier to pull engine, trans, and t-case as one unit. In past builds, the motor mount horns get in the way, so I decided to make them fully removable.

So I sleeved in some 3/4 OD tube so I can run 4 1/2" bolts to mount the horns.
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