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25K views 47 replies 26 participants last post by  Tom  
#1 ·
I'm on my 2nd eaton elocker, the first was replaced under warranty. Took it out today and it would not engage. I had a ton of resistance on the ground coming from the relay (26.3Ohms) so I put a jumper wire on the ground wire, load side of the relay right to the battery and now have my resistance down to 3 ohms on the ground and 2.9 on the positive at the plug that goes into the pig. This isn't too much resistance to prevent it from working, is it? I also have 12.60 volts, which seems more then adequate.

With the front end on jacks, I can spin one of the tires extremely slow, and it will catch and lock up. When it locks, I can push a little harder (I'm talking pretty damn light) and it will click and open back up.

Are these things total junk?? This is the first time I've had it out on the new locker, and I was on a sand hill with basically no resistance and the fricken thing wouldn't work.

Any advice, or should I just try to get Eaton to take back their e-locker so I can get an arb? Internet browsing finds most people love their e-lockers. :(
 
#8 ·
I don't think I follow, what was that the resistance on the the locker or the wires or the wiring harness? I wouldn't want tons of resistance on your relay wiring harness because you would not be seeing the voltage needed for latch in the locker. My guess should only be seeing less that a volt at most drop across the relay harness to the locker. Have you tried hooking the locker directly to a 12v source and see if it locks up? That at the very least would rule out poor relay circuitry.

Being I know you and your background in electrical circuits, do you have a break down of the locker itself? You might have something wrong with the interals of the locker.
 
#44 ·
i really like how easy my arb lockers are... works everytime without any problem always seems to get me through have had them for year and a half with very little maint. seems to grab just as hard as any other locker i have felt
 
#47 ·
Is the current necessary to engage the unit the same as the current necessary to keep it engaged when it has torque applied?

Have you designed your electrical circuits for a 0.5V round trip voltage drop? Many large inductors will not work under 12V. Also, have you properly suppressed any transient spikes when the inductor is disengaged (diode or resistor across the terminals)?