Yanmar = John Deere, just not green and lower price tag. If you are in that shop in the picture above- if you walk over to that green tractor by the over-head door, lift the hood and look at the engine tag it would say Yanmar on it.

Last I knew, Yanmar Japan, builds all of John Deere's tractors 25 HP to 125 HP, ships them unassembled to either Savannah or Charleston - then to the "assembly" plant in Augusta.

So plus side of that option: 1. same quality as a JD; 2. parts are available at JD dealer; 3. you might even get a JD dealer to service it as well.

 

Damn it, I took this week off to do tractor work, and the rain is screwing me. Stil getting it done, but much more clean up/yard leveling needed after.

 

I know what that is all about my last few loads of sand had a lot of clay mixed in with them which makes for some real hard shit when it is dry but can turn into pudding when loose and whet.

RBB

 

It's great that you're considering a compact tractor for maintaining your wooded sand dune. Kubota is a reputable brand known for its durable and reliable machines. When checking out the used Kubota, be sure to inspect the maintenance records and ask about any attachments or accessories included. It's a smart move to seek advice from experienced tractor enthusiasts to ensure you make the right choice for your needs. Happy tractor hunting.

 

^^^^banned.... Not dealing with these bots. Just gonna start swinging the ban hammer

 

FWIW...

If anyone is using a loader on your compact tractor, I wanted to mention that the rear tires on my Kubota L2501 are liquid-filled, but I still added a ballast box on the rear; it has made a HUGE difference. I picked my box up lightly-used (built on the Tractor Supply Carry All frame), and filled it with 57 stone (driveway stone). I'm guessing it's around 750-800 lbs. I then used a bunch of QuickFist clamps to organize a bunch of the tools I regularly use around our property.

The additional weight on the rear of the tractor makes a big difference when I'm moving rocks or dirt, and my tools are always well-organized and easy to access when doing work.

 

FWIW...

If anyone is using a loader on your compact tractor, I wanted to mention that the rear tires on my Kubota L2501 are liquid-filled, but I still added a ballast box on the rear; it has made a HUGE difference. I picked my box up lightly-used (built on the Tractor Supply Carry All frame), and filled it with 57 stone (driveway stone). I'm guessing it's around 750-800 lbs. I then used a bunch of QuickFist clamps to organize a bunch of the tools I regularly use around our property.

The additional weight on the rear of the tractor makes a big difference when I'm moving rocks or dirt, and my tools are always well-organized and easy to access when doing work.

View attachment 284985

Definitely great advice!

I almost always have some sort of 3pt attachment on the back of our tractor so it serves the same purpose. Though it should be noted that a 6ft brush hog is significantly better suited as a counter weight than a little 6ft york rake 🤣

 

A ballast box is still noticeably better than many implements, in some cases because it simply weighs more, in many others because it's so much more compact. I've done it both ways and the ballast box is infinitely better for what I do since I'm usually in somewhat tight areas and don't have to worry about the huge swing of the implement behind me.

I have a bin strapped to the top of mine with fuel, gloves, spare chainsaw chains, random straps and chains, and whatever I might need for the day's project. I haven't added tool holders yet but will eventually, usually I just lay them sideways between the bin and top hook and they stay in place till I get to wherever I'm working. I do have dual chainsaw holders built onto my quick hitch and I use those A LOT since much of what I use the tractor for is firewood processing.

 

I agree, I often use a 6' hog with a hunk of sidewalk added to the rear, makes a huge difference. I would love to have the time to build something more practical but I already have my hands full of other projects.

 

I use home made wheel weights. I made them out of modified truck drums and filled them with lead. There are four, the outer ones bolt to the inner ones. I wish I'd made quick attach plates for the inner ones also instead of just bolting them direct to the wheel. It's a PITA as an older person to get the inners hung so I only take them off when I'm worried about the grass. I have a ballast box of sorts, but it is permanently mounted to the tractor and I hang modified suitcase weights off it.

 

I put together a ballast box with stuff that I mostly had on hand. Since the pictures I painted it and threw 9 cements blocks in it. I may fill the voids with concrete, but I didn't want to fully commit to that.

 

What's the PVC for?

 

Shovel or rake holder.

 

Good plan.

Looks good, the fork pockets are a great add-on too! Thank god you deburred the edges too.

 

Looks good, the fork pockets are a great add-on too! Thank god you deburred the edges too.

 

Have been kicking around a compact tractor to use at my property. Ran across a John Deere 2025 with a mower deck and front bucket. Looks good but I don't know what to even look for besides visual things. What would I look for during a test drive?

 

similar to any rig you are looking at check all the functions, look for wet spots, check/break clutch linkage to see if adjusted all the way out, How many hours are on it ??? does the loader bucket set flat or level to the ground, take a grease gun see if the pins take grease or if they are crusty, crusty can be a pain in the ass. Just a few thoughts off the top of my head.



RBB

 

Check pivot points for wear. Has it been maintained? Does everything work as it should etc....


Do some looking to make sure it will do everything you will want it to... That is about all I can think of.

 

In addition to what others shared, pay close attention to the hydraulic system and especially hydrostatic drive. While generally very reliable, if someone abused it, ran it low, used the wrong fluid, etc it can lead to very expensive repairs. Make sure it operates smoothly and relatively quietly(some hydraulic whine is normal with any of them but the JDs tend to be fairly quiet).

FWIW the 2025 isn't an overly impressive machine for its size/cost. It's what I had my eyes on when I started shopping. I've always been a Deere guy, but after doing a ton of research before buying anything, I found that the 2025 is overpriced and underwhelming performance-wise compared to other name brand machines, at least when new. They're still great tractors, I didn't see any real common issues with them in my research, dealer network is great, and since you're looking used, the initial cost difference may be a non-issue. If it's a deal or a known source I can give you no reason not to go with that model. But if it's just a random tractor and you're looking for the best bang for the buck, I'd recommend keeping your eyes out for other options too. Kubota B2601 is its closest competitor size-wise, way cheaper new, and slightly more lifting power. B2650/LX2610 are another step up in size, still cheaper new, and significantly more capable.

 

Good suggestions from all you guys. I'm not rushing into anything and planned to look at most stuff mentioned. I like the suggestion of making sure the bucket sets flat, as that can be an indicator of the arms being bent.

Size wise, the 2025 is in general where I need to be and should fit my plans. I want to be able to mow my place up north, haul some wood, do some basic grading and dig a hole now and then. For the most part, I see it being an oversized mower and wood hauler. RE hauling wood, I had a Yamaha Rhino and one thing I found is that as I get older, I'm not into lifting a heavy log up into the bed of anything. Hence where the front bucket is very attractive.

 

not to be a wet blanket but that is a 10 year old tractor, for more than the retail price back when it was new, one of my coworkers has a 2013 he bought new with a couple attachments in 2013 for something like 15K out the door. Keep shopping!!!!

 

I fully agree with all of that, and any of the machines I mentioned including the 2025 can do those things exceedingly well. I wouldn't hesitate to get one if the price and condition are right. It's one of those tools I wonder how I ever did without. Unlikely to be found on a machine that size but I'd avoid ag tires if you plan on mowing or even just driving on lawns with it. Turfs or R4 industrial will be fine though which is what they typically come with. Turf is easier on the lawn but not as good for woods or dirt work.

 

One other thing with John Deere (correct me if I'm wrong)...they don't use the industry-standard skid steer quick-connect attachments, but rather a proprietary set-up. It could definitely impact things down the road if you're looking to add other loader attachments.

I picked up a used set of pallet forks after-the-fact, for example.

Craig

 

That's kinda a big deal.

 

Good point !!!

I share a couple of my attachments with close friends unfortunately one of my other friends does have a Deere and he can't swap with the rest of us.

When examining loader arms make sure all the tires have the proper air in them, it is easy to cheat the bucket test with a few PSI modification in the tires.


RBB

 

Good point !!!

I share a couple of my attachments with close friends unfortunately one of my other friends does have a Deere and he can't swap with the rest of us.

When examining loader arms make sure all the tires have the proper air in them, it is easy to cheat the bucket test with a few PSI modification in the tires.


RBB

I'm curious what you mean by this? how do you cheap a bucket test with different air pressure in the tires? I guess I do not understand the bucket test you are referring to?

My brush grapple and forks are my most used attachments. my grapple nearly lives on my tractor. I have not had the bucket on all summer. I have a trail spotter I swap to as well.

 

You're welcome to take a look at the quick attach on my tractor so you can see how it works to compare with the tractor you are looking at. It's no different than Bobcat skidders.

My neighbor's subcompact New Holland or LS sub-compact also has proprietary bucket connect. He can't swap between bucket and forks.

 

Good point on the SSQA versus John Deere's proprietary. Or hell, my neighbor's JD 1025R has a pinned bucket so he can't swap at all. The SSQA is by far the most common, has the best aftermarket support, and is easiest to find loaner options or stuff on the used market. JD is probably the second most common but used FAR less than SSQA. You can find just about any new implement with an option for the JD quick attach, but options will be more limited and cost may be higher. In the used market you're pretty much screwed.

 

Important to know but I'm not sure how much it would affect me if I bought it with the loader and mower already attached. Not sure what other attachments I would need to use/borrow?

I'm hoping to go take a look at it Saturday but no intention of making an offer till I research pricing for new. This is a 2013 with 180 hours for $17K

 

Important to know but I'm not sure how much it would affect me if I bought it with the loader and mower already attached. Not sure what other attachments I would need to use/borrow?

I didn't think I'd need/want any other loader attachments, either. I'll say that the used pallet forks I bought have been a HUGE blessing, and I use them all the time now. I also bought a bare skid steer attachment frame to use as a basis of a future fabrication project.

A few ideas...loader-mounted boom pole, trailer mover/front hitch set-up, rock bucket, tree puller, grapple (if you add additional hydraulics).

I'm not saying that everyone would have a need for these, but a little tractor is definitely a great Swiss Army tool, and in my case, I'm thinking of ways to use mine that I never had when I bought it almost 1 1/2 years ago.

Craig

 

Your mileage may vary, but I use my pallet forks at least 10x more than my bucket. I process, store, and move a lot of firewood though so I'm not necessarily in the norm. But they are super handy for loading and unloading tons of other stuff, storing things on pallets for ease, etc. For light duty stuff plenty of people use clamp-on forks that attach onto the bucket, but they'll really cut into the lift capacity since they stick out so far and also place a lot of stress on the bucket itself.

 

Forks are nice for moving sheet steel, axles, and other heavy stuff around the garage/shop. I find myself flipping between bucket and forks somewhat frequently.

It's easier to drag a dead tree to the burn pile with forks over the bucket. If I chop it up, the bucket is better. Forks are nice for burning down a pile of brush, as I can use the forks to push it on the fire, or flip bigger logs to keep it burning.