Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest banner
1 - 20 of 42 Posts

Smitty02

· Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
So I'm looking to buy a trailer to haul my tj. Pretty much stock 33 4 inch lift. Looking for a open trailer. Question being what length,width, dovetail or not. This is all new to me. Please shoot me some ideas what I should be looking for. Thanks
 
Depends on what you want to haul and what you want to spend. Most people tend to buy a 18’ trailer with a dovetail. In reality that’s way bigger than you need. Your jeep is 12-13’ long so a 14’ trailer is all you need. However, the bigger trailer allows you to haul something larger if you want.

No matter what you do, you want a minimum of 7000# gvw with dual braking axles. That means 3500# axles.

I recently downsized to a 14’ aluminum trailer with drop axles. A little more money but Ross like a dream.
 
I disagree on the too big theory. Why go bigger than you need? More cost, more space, more weight to haul. The OP needs to decide what he wants his trailer for. The only reason I would go bigger than 14' is to haul something else (ok, so if you don't know what else, what larger size is appropriate?) or you want a tool box or some other storage on the front of the trailer.
 
We have a 14 foot trailer for the Jeep and samurais. Works fine for the 11 foot long samurais, it sucks big time for the Jeep. There is not nearly enough room to strap it down well. I would definitely go for an 18 foot with a dovetail.
 
We have a 14 foot trailer for the Jeep and samurais. Works fine for the 11 foot long samurais, it sucks big time for the Jeep. There is not nearly enough room to strap it down well. I would definitely go for an 18 foot with a dovetail.


Oh really? 14’ right here. As far as balance goes, this has about 800# tongue weight on it, as it was the first time I loaded it. I have found that if I park it further back, I get about 600# tongue weight, which is about 10%. No issues with sway or balance.

Image



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
While Jim's setup works, and seems to work well for him, I don't give the same recommendation. I find that for most people anything less than a 16'er is hard to get strapped or chained down well, and too hard to back up. The short wheelbase makes them jack knife too easily and hard to see backing up. Couple that with everyone running a crew cab truck these days and the wheelbase of truck to trailer isn't conducive to easy backing.

IMO though more important than the length is the capacity. A standard car hauler just isn't strong enough for most of road rigs. Some, sure, but not most. Get a 10k or 12k trailer if you are buying new. Most "car haulers" come with super lame tires on them. Both too small and too cheap. Keep in mind that trailer tires are rated at 65 mph. So if you plan to motor out at 70-80 with your buddies plan on frequently changing tires. You'll need them at max psi all the time, and be on the edge of their capabilities. Step up the at least the 225 trailer tires. These will come on the 10k/12k trailers stock. Most built up jeeps and rigs will be right on the edge of the 7k weight rating of a car hauler. A 10k will give you some room for confidence and reliability. It's also nice if you end up wanting to haul home a parts truck. Or plow truck, or a friend tow rig.

Sent from my SM-G930VL using Tapatalk
 
With higher rated axles i.e. 3500 lb. vs. 5000 lb., you also get better brakes.
Something else to consider is what type of suspension you want. Torsion axles ride smoother while leaf springs will equalize the load between the axles. You will be more likely to overload one axle on a torsion axle suspension.
 
I had a 20ft trailer that was waaay to long for most of what I used it for, and was a pain in the ass to store it. I would recommend getting the smallest trailer that will do the job. I've always liked the 16+2 size for just about anything. Out side of cars I used my trailer to haul lumber and building materials the most.


Personally I would only get a dovetail if you are hauling cars, a jeep will load fine without the dovetail and dovetails tend to catch lots of pavement in my experience since they sit so low.


I prefer a wood deck for numerous reasons, but the all steel ones are lighter and cheaper and look great when they are new.


Order extra tie down points or have them added


I would recommend stepping up to twin 5k axles, they are way beefier and have 12" brakes. Usually the upcharge is minimal, probably $150/axle.


Get two spare tire mounts! I've blown out several trailer tires, and having a spare for the spare is cheap insurance when on the road.
 
Image



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


Haha I love this! Never make a decision on a trailer based on some thoughts of how it will back up lol. Some guys can evens parallel park double A trains!


From what I've seen most people who struggle with trailer backing were never taught what to look for in the mirrors and/or they are fucking with the wheel too much or too hard of an angle.
 
I had a 20ft trailer that was waaay to long for most of what I used it for, and was a pain in the ass to store it. I would recommend getting the smallest trailer that will do the job. I've always liked the 16+2 size for just about anything. Out side of cars I used my trailer to haul lumber and building materials the most.


Personally I would only get a dovetail if you are hauling cars, a jeep will load fine without the dovetail and dovetails tend to catch lots of pavement in my experience since they sit so low.


I prefer a wood deck for numerous reasons, but the all steel ones are lighter and cheaper and look great when they are new.


Order extra tie down points or have them added


I would recommend stepping up to twin 5k axles, they are way beefier and have 12" brakes. Usually the upcharge is minimal, probably $150/axle.


Get two spare tire mounts! I've blown out several trailer tires, and having a spare for the spare is cheap insurance when on the road.
Ditto on 2 spares. Either you need 2 at the same time or you have the anxiety of continuing your trip with no spare.

Btw please pm me your email. I need to discuss something with you.
 
My trailer started as a 16' deck plus 2' beaver. As others stated, it was great for cars or loading dead stuff that needed to be dragged on. After 10+ years the beaver was mangled from dragging it over stuff.

A few years ago I chopped off the beaver tail and now have just the 16' flat deck. For what I use it for, it's great. No more dragging coming out of gas stations and can still fit a suburban.

I also upgraded from 2x 3500lb axles to 2x 5000# axles when I did the rebuild, and I'm happy I did that. The axles and tires are bigger and more durable. I think it was a worthwhile upgrade.

I would steer clear of a box tube built trailer. My next trailer will be built out of C-channel so it doesn't rot from the inside out.
 
18' + 2' with 5000 lb axles will be able to haul anything you can think of short of 2 vehicles. (Think beyond vehicles...20' 2x6 or stick of DOM etc..) A 14' trailer will only being able to hold a jeep and only be able to strap over the tires (I'm not a fan of doing that).

My TJ with a 67" wide axle and 12.5" wide tires is 80" overall width. I personally would make sure there is 82" between the fenders, or get them removable.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts