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I'm not old, honest...
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18' + 2' with 5000 lb axles will be able to haul anything you can think of short of 2 vehicles. (Think beyond vehicles...20' 2x6 or stick of DOM etc..) A 14' trailer will only being able to hold a jeep and only be able to strap over the tires (I'm not a fan of doing that).

My TJ with a 67" wide axle and 10.5" wide tires is 80" overall width. I personally would make sure there is 82" between the fenders, or get them removable.

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I'm willing to have this debate any time. :poke::bdr2::naughty::woot: I would argue that anyone saying this is not a good idea has never towed this way and/or never had a strap come loose that is pulling in one direction only.

Oh, and by the way, you can still strap it down conventionally if you want.
 

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I'm willing to have this debate any time. :poke::bdr2::naughty::woot: I would argue that anyone saying this is not a good idea has never towed this way and/or never had a strap come loose that is pulling in one direction only.
My 2 main argument points are that a tire is a lot more compressible than an axle tube and anchor points suck. What happens on an 8 hour drive to go wheeling when your tires are burping air past a bead lock?

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I'm not old, honest...
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My 2 main argument points are that a tire is a lot more compressible than an axle tube and anchor points suck. Hooking to the axle tube is still reliant on clamping the tire to the trailer. If the tire goes low, the strap goes slack. What happens on an 8 hour drive to go wheeling when your tires are burping air past a bead lock? My tires don't burp air. :d:

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Any responsible person hauling a load on a trailer will check their straps during bathroom or fuel stops. Have I had to tension them up? Sure, no different than strapping down any other way.

I am not anti-strapping to the axle...... I've done it for years and still do. But here is what I have discovered with this setup. It pulls the tire straight down into the trailer bed, planting it and being far less likely to slip around if the straps are not super tight. Next, on a traditional setup, you have 2 straps holding you back, and 2 straps holding you forward. On the setup shown above, you have 4 straps holding you back and 4 straps holding you forward. Next, if you lose both straps on front or rear, there is nothing keeping your rig from moving towards the remaining straps, allowing them to loosen up. With the over the tire system, you could lose 3 out of 4 straps and still keep your rig from rolling forward or backwards.

I have had 2 personal experiences that support my position.

I nodded off while coming back from out west with 2 rigs on my trailer. I drifted into the median and caught the left tires on the grass. When I came back onto the highway it was pretty violent and blew both left tires on the trailer. I had grass up in the frame of my trailer. Neither rig moved.

I broke a front axle while at the Mounds. Apparently I was frustrated when I loaded up because when I got home I discovered that I had never tightened either of my rear straps. But the front straps held my rig in place.

Both examples above are driver error...... MINE. :( But the reality is that shit happens and I've had it happen to me. I'll take 8 contact points over 4 any day of the week.

Finally, anchor points don't suck, you just need to add them where appropriate. My 26' trailer has dedicated anchor points up and down the total length of the trailer on both sides. Makes it a non issue.
 

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Low Range Drifter
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8,118 Posts
My 2 main argument points are that a tire is a lot more compressible than an axle tube and anchor points suck. What happens on an 8 hour drive to go wheeling when your tires are burping air past a bead lock?
I've had flat tires make axle straps come loose on multiple occasions, so that's not really a valid point in my book.

I'm good with either setup. I'm not a fan of the strap/chain per axle wrapped around the axle going side to side.
 

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Anchor points suck because the have to be dedicated, and unless they run the whole length of a trailer they will only work for one specific vehicle and tire size. I personally would not want 8 dedicated tire strap anchor points and an additional 4 for anything else I would want to haul.

Very good point on 4 straps holding the vehicle both forward and back instead of 2 each way, but I almost always will use 1 chain and 1 strap on the back of a vehicle.

Also a good point on the tires still compressing down with the strap on the axle, but think about which way the force is pulling and how much less that plays a factor vs. A strap pulling straight down on the tire.



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I'm not old, honest...
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Don’t have a pic of the straps but this made it all the way to KOH and back strapped from the axle to the trailer so I don’t buy they “can’t strap down on a short trailer” story.
Nope on the strap length. I have a long set and a short set that I cut down for personal use. I'll find a pic.




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Don’t have a pic of the straps but this made it all the way to KOH and back strapped from the axle to the trailer so I don’t buy they “can’t strap down on a short trailer” story.
Nope on the strap length. I have a long set and a short set that I cut down for personal use. I'll find a pic.




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Just because it made it all the way there and back doesn't mean its right...


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I'm not old, honest...
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Long straps not dedicated.

Oh and before someone thinks the rear axle of the front rig wasn't tied down, it was in the traditional manner.




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Whoop Whoop
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Do you want to only haul the jeep? Do you have more room for other trailers if you need to move something larger than a jeep?

I've pretty much settled on wanting a 18+2 with 10k axles. Even though the primary function is hauling my small cj2a, I'd like to be able to haul full sticks of material and a full size truck if the need arises. I only have a half ton truck, so going any longer would likely result in needing a bigger truck if I wanted to haul 2 rigs.

I have places to store more trailers, so I wouldn't be against having a shorty for the kernel. I only really want a utility trailer and a car hauler around the house, so the option to go bigger than immediate need makes more sense since I do haul full size vehicles at times.
 

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Balls Deep
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Lots of good points in here.

As for the lowly attacks about my comment backing trailers, I can back up whatever. It's not a crisis for me. I'll take whatever you give me and could back it right into Steveos sisters V-hole if you asked me to. The problem is with others, including those new to trailer pulling. I've had to back up many OTHER peoples trailers because they can't seem to get it in where it needs to go.

As for strapping/chaining, tire straps, regular straps, and chains are all good methods. I prefer chains when I can, but use straps sometimes too. In the picture posted above, the Jeep with short straps or whatever is holding it obviously worked, but probably isn't the best method. I'm not even sure how its is hooked o. this little phone screen, but the best would have been to go from the front axle tube to the trailer,attaching somewhere around center of the jeep or the rear tire, and the straps from the rear axle forward.

However if I was buying a new trailer, I'd size it with a couple feet for and aft of the axles so I could get a good chain/strap anchor point and have room to get a couple other things on there, as most people do. It's nice to have room up front for a couple extra tires or a toolbox if you go on a long trip.

Looks like so far the agreeable things are bigger axles, brakes, and tires.

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Cup holders & Rollbars
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I’m hauling a ’97 Tj w/42’s, 6000lbs.

My trailer started as a 7000lb trailer, 14’ deck, 2’ dovetail. Perfect for a Jeep, although I have hauled a crew cab Duramax on it (not the best setup but possible). Last year I built my own 8000lb axles and installed 5K springs. I love my setup, with the cruise set at 78 I sometimes forget its back there. With the larger brakes and brake controller set at 30% I can come up to a stop sign like a sports car. I installed G rated tires, a big expense but they will last a lot longer. Also with 8 lug wheels I no longer carry a spare as the truck spare will fit.

This tie down debate is funny. We might as well debate Chevy vs Ford. Tie it down however you think is appropriate. Larger point is check straps at each stop and touch hubs and tires to check for heat buildup. If I haven’t stopped for a couple hours I’ll make a quick stop just for that purpose.

 

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I'm not old, honest...
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As for the lowly attacks about my comment backing trailers,
:sonicjay::sonicjay::sonicjay:

It wasn't directed at you but it is something I support. Learning to back up a trailer is something that anyone "PULLING" a trailer should be able to do. I live on a 1-1/2 lane gravel road and a narrow lot. My neighbors will stop and watch as I back a big trailer in my driveway. They couldn't believe I got a 45' (deck) gooseneck in my driveway.
 

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Balls Deep
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I was kidding about the "lowly attacks" but didn't convey that well. I'm completely not butthurt aboot it all, just acting grouchy in jest.

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I'm not old, honest...
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I was kidding about the "lowly attacks" but didn't convey that well. I'm completely not butthurt aboot it all, just acting grouchy in jest.

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Uh huh sure. Another snowflake showing true colors. :sonicjay:
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Well should give a follow-up. I bought a 18 ft plus a beaver tail. 83 inches between the fenders. Has a powder coated frame, new radial tires, set back jack and breaks on both axles. Brand new couldn't pass up the price less than 3 grand total out the door.
 

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Well should give a follow-up. I bought a 18 ft plus a beaver tail. 83 inches between the fenders. Has a powder coated frame, new radial tires, set back jack and breaks on both axles. Brand new couldn't pass up the price less than 3 grand total out the door.
What brand did you end up getting? Ive been looking at the load trail or whatever usa trailer sales sells in edmore. For what people want for a used one I figured id be better off getting a new one too. 10000lbs 20ft with both axle brakes was right around 3k.
 
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