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Yukon XL or Suburban 4wd vs AWD ????

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43K views 21 replies 7 participants last post by  twodollars  
#1 · (Edited)
I am in the market for a full size SUV and am leaning twards the Yukon XL or Suburban.

But, I am seeing a few options for the drive train. 5.3, 6.0, 8.1, and 4WD and AWD.

What is the AWD system? Anygood? I can't see myself using lowrange on a Suburban. What about motor options? I like my brothers Suburban with the 5.3, so is the 6.o or 8.1 just too much/overkill for the sacrafice in fuel economy?
 
#2 · (Edited)
We had a K2500 suburban with the 6.0 and it was sweet. Plenty of power, solid, great for towing. Averaged 12.5 city and like 15 highway (4.10's and 265's). The 8.1 is a haus but I wouldn't buy one if you are even considering fuel economy (believe they get around 10mpgs). I don't believe anything over the 5.3 was offered in the C/K1500 line (which you probably know), so the question is do you want a crap hauler or a tow rig? If you are using it as a tow rig I'd suggest the 6.0 (Get the 4L80E and 10.5" in the rear). I also don't believe that the suburban came with a strictly AWD t-case. I'm sure the AWD is a reference to the auto-trak garbage gm has. This is all assuming that your not looking at a Denali XL which does have a 6.0 and an AWD case.

K2500 Suburbans are generally in better condition I've found, mainly because they are typically ordered not sold of the lot to average wackos. I'd rather have a K2500 over a K1500 because of power and improved drive train :thumb:
 
#3 ·
Shawn on motor options it depends on how much you plan on towing. If you are only gonna tow your Jeep 5-6 times a year a 5.3L is plenty. If you are going to tow a lot, go for the 2500 and 6.0L or 8.1L. There isn't much difference in mileage between those two motors from most people I talked to.

The gentlemen above covered the tcase options. AWD was only available in the Denali. The rest of the Suburban/Yukon XL's had Auto-Trac which is basically the same thing as Select Trac in Cherokee/Grands, except push button:tonka:

We have been looking at Suburbans also, but I wouldn't bother getting a 5.3L 1500 for my needs. Its basically no different than towing with my current Suburban 1500 5.7L. I want the 8.1L, but they are harder to find with out traveling, 6.0L are easier to find locally. Both great motors for towing. My Sub' is just a tow rig, not daily driver, so I don't care about mileage, and would love the extra 70-80 ft lbs the 8.1L has over the 6.0L.
 
#4 ·
7.4L V-8............ The one I'm selling....'94 Suburban......anyways...

Parents Yukon 5.3L sucks in the hills. If you tow much down south, save the engine and get something bigger. I can get 14mpg towing through most of MI on the 5.3L though. Just it drops to 10-11 mpg in the hills and your screaming the whole way!

Lucas
 
#5 · (Edited)
I have a 2002 half ton z71 burban with the 5.3. It has the locker in the back also. I can't say enough good about it. I have a show car that on the trailer weighed in at over 6000lbs. The burban pulled it all over the eastern half of the US and I continuously got almost 13mpg. My old trailer weighed 3000lbs empty, it was a big trailer. I just bought a smaller trailer and am looking forward to pulling it instead.
I get near 15mpg empty on the highway and pulling a car on a normal sized trailer I can get almost 14.
The 5.3 is flex fuel capable and I run the crap outta E85 cause it is much cheaper around here, still get almost 12mpg with it too.
I have 135,000 miles on this truck and it is doing great for me. I used to tow with a 98 vortec 5.7 in a silverado and the 5.3 is much better in my opinion. The highway manner of this motor is much nicer towing. It just feels like it has more power available all the time.
Only time I wish I had a bigger motor is when I pulled a Bobcat and trailer weighing almost 9000 lbs. It pulled it but it didn't really like it.
Another downfall on the halftons burbans of this body style is the rear is coil spring. The coils don't like alot of tounge weight. The 3/4 tons are leafs in the back.
If I had it to do all over again I probably would have went with a 6.0 3/4 ton. The 6.0 has more power and fuel economy isn't all that much below the 5.3, especially towing. Now, if you aren't gonna have a trailer living behind it like I have, the 5.3 1/2 ton is great!
Also, the "AWD" function on the transfer case is really an Automatic four wheel drive, not all wheel drive by definition. Basically, you can put it in "A4wd" and it will run the truck in 2 wheel drive until it detects rear wheel slippage. When it does it will engage the front wheels and the disengage when the rear wheels get traction again. I personally like it cause when the roads are "iffy" I can hit that button and send the wife out and she doesn't have to worry about running 4wd on dry pavement and dealing with shifting in and out of 4wd. I think the 3/4 tons have this too but I am not 100% sure.

-Sean

p.s. make sure you get one with the locker in the rear too. The difference that makes in mud and stuff is simply incredible. I have been in some spots where I would have been totally screwed with an open rear diff
 
#7 ·
#11 · (Edited)
Like stated above, your going to be paying alot more for the Denali name plate. While you do get a nice interior and the 6.0, you will get a better value in a YukonXL/Suburban. The difference between gas milage is almost comical. My cousins have 3 yukon's and they all get around 13 mpg's average where as my familys K2500 suburban got about 12.5. I'm sure that you can pull better than 13 though, but it's not going to be in the high teens.


Another thing you have to think about is durability. Upgrading to a 3/4 ton your going to get the beefy 4L80E tranny and 9.25/10.5" axles along with the healthier motor. In a half ton you'll have a good motor, but the 4L60E and 8.25/8.6 axles have been known to let go during normal street driving.


I've never really asked them what they where getting. I did hear Dave mention it was the same as their previous vehicle, which was a '99 or '00 Escalade w/5.7L. I'm not sure if that Escalade was AWD or not tho'.

I personally would stay away from AWD. I like to have a true 4hi. Just my opinion.

I would stay away from AWD as well. The thought of replacing that case is scary as they are less prevelant in local scrap yards. I believe the 99-00 Caddys/Denali's have the regular push button auto track case, not awd.


I've never had any experience with the Denali all wheel drive system. Would that system be worse on gas than a run of the mill burban?

-Sean

More than likely. But a good custom toon would probably level the playing field.
 
#8 ·
Shawn, I have friends with a similar Denali. I believe theirs is a '04. AWD is just like the AWD in mini vans. No 4hi, no nuetrel, no selector. they told me the system works great in wet weather conditions, and you don't notice on dry pavement.
They love their truck, rides great and tows their camper with ease. That truck should have air ride suspension, which is great for towing. Only thing is that current bid is less than 1/2 of what that truck is worth. I would expect the final bid on there to be around $25K.
I also believe in the Denali version w/6.0L the diffs are only available with 3.73 gears. Where the 2500 w/6.0L can be had w/4.10.
 
#14 ·
Tiki where do you get half your information?

My last 5.3/4l60e/half ton axled 99 silverado had 175,000 miles on the original drivetrain. Original owner was a snowmobiler and towed a 2 or 4 place all the time, I towed my boat and a jeeps with it all the time, never a problem.

Durability and longevity was fine.

The upgrade to a 3/4 ton is a good idea, but to say the 1/2 ton's just fail on the street for no reason is retarded.
 
#15 ·
Just general observation. I had a 5.7/4l60e Tahoe that had 212,000 on it and it ran fine. But i've also had a buddy of mine go through 3 trannys in the same truck. I've seen plenty of 4L60E's go that haven't been lifted/modified.


I'm not saying that K1500's will fail no matter what with just street driving, but it does happen. Especially in the transmission and rear end. My next pickup will be a K1500 with all the same week points, but I plan to modify the vehicle for it's short comings.

The upgrade to a 3/4 ton is a good idea, but to say the 1/2 ton's just fail on the street for no reason is retarded.
Your right i only see lifted trucks getting their trannys and rear ends worked on. I'm just saying they are more susceptable to problems that are amplified by towing. Easy feller
 
#18 ·
I picked up a 2004 yukon denali last year for my wife. It has the 6.0 awd system. On a summer trip we got 18 and change mpg on the highway - as long as I stayed under 75. At 80+ the mileage went down into the low 14's. I put a set of all terrains on it, and in the snow and ice, the traction control works pretty well. The t-case is open, single speed, and both the diffs are open. All traction is by break application. But GM seems to have done a good job on it. I love the the 6.0. Excellent power, great acceleration.
 
#20 ·
I forgot to mention, I've used low range more times than I ever imagined. From pulling out trucks that were frozen into the ground in order to drag them on a trailer for a tow home to removing tree stumps....and I was originally going to go with a 2wd!!

Lucas
 
#22 ·
tikiclub2, I pulled a double axle car hauler with a 91 firebird on it, and it pulled it without any issue. I drained fluids this summer, and there was nothing out of the ordinary. The awd t case is just a single speed "open" box, with not much to wear in it. The diffs come from the factory with synthetic lube in them, which cost a few dollars more to use. With that said, I prefer towing with my 95 3/4 ton 4wd burb, the extra wheelbase helps - as do the larger brakes.