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York/Sanden On Board Air FAQ

33K views 35 replies 15 participants last post by  wheelsofsteele  
#1 · (Edited)
York/Sanden On Board Air FAQ and Setup

YORK/SANDEN On Board Air FAQ

The main component of an on board air setup in an old (or new) A/C compressor. All these units are is an engine driven pump. Since they are designed to produce a fairly decent amount of pressure, one makes some minor modifications to run air. I will go over the types of compressors, what vehicles these compressors are found on, mounting, connectors, hoses, valves, switches, and tanks. I will admit that I have not yet attempted my own setup. I do have a compressor ready to be put in and and soon going to invest my own personal time and money into one, thus I want to make absolutely certain this writeup is correct.

The next order of business is identifying the different possible compressors and deciding which one is best for your application, and where to find it.



The more popular choice of compressor would be a “York” style. These are more popular because they have their own internal oil supply, thus not needing any extra lubrication normally received from the A/C fluid. They've been around for a really long time and can still be found at a lot of junkyards. Because they carry their own oil they do not get as hot as quickly and bearings last longer.
Pros:
  • Continuous operation (own oil)
  • Common
  • Proven reliability (most OBA setups use this compressor)
Cons:
  • HUGE! 6”wide – 8” deep (W/ clutch) – 10.5” tall (W/ SHORT connectors)
  • Pulley modification needed for a serpentine pattern
  • OR custom Idler pulley for serpentine-V belt converter
  • OR 6/8 groove serpentine clutches, $130 new
Before purchasing your York compressor be advised there are 3 different sizes (internally) the pumps came in. 10.3 ci (169 cc) – model 210, 8.69 ci (142 cc) – model 209, and 6.10 ci (100 cc) – model 206. The larger 2 are fairly close in size and should be more than acceptable. However the smaller of the pumps need not be cast away. If you are going the custom Idler pulley route you could put a larger V-belt pulley on the end of the smaller serpentine pulley, thus increasing the overall speed* of the pump and compensating for it's lack of displacement.

One may be able to look at the tag on the front of the compressor and determine it's displacement. I have not had good luck with this method, and recommend not relying on this method. My York tag did not match up with any on-line source (even the York service manual I.D. Info). However, because some may match up, here is a picture of the tag and what the information means. The most reliable way of determining the displacement of a York is the end of the crankshaft.

The following is how one can remove the clutch the clutch:
  1. Engage the clutch mechanism by connecting it to a battery source.
  2. Secure the outer clutch wheel either by a strap wrench or vice (anything that can hold it still).
  3. Remove the center bolt and washer (1/2" socket).
  4. Run a 2" long, 5/8" coarse thread bolt in until it bottoms against the crankshaft and forces the clutch off.
Look at the end of the crankshaft. The end is flat on all models.
  • If the edge of the flat end is beveled, you've got the small displacement. 6.10 ci (100 cc) – model 206
  • If it's a sharp corner, but with a thin groove for a retaining clip (there shouldn't be a clip), you've got the medium displacement. 8.69 ci (142 cc) – model 209
  • If it's a sharp corner without any groove, you've got the large displacement. 10.3 ci (169 cc) – model 210
Here is a picture from the Climate Control website Service Manual that also describes the crankshaft ends.

Kilby offers pumps, serpentine clutches and a full install kits. Good looking kit though, but for a price.

*Max RPM for York compressor is 6,000RPM (compressor speed), 4,000RPM Continuous (compressor speed)

Mounting the York
The York compressor is rather flexible in terms of mounting position. The York can be mounted forwards or backwards on the engine* (clutch pointing towards the back of the vehicle, housing in front of the belt system), upright or on either side completely horizontal, or on any angle in between (so long as oil can reach bearings**). So despite it's size it can still be squeezed into certain cramped areas.

*INTAKE/EXHAUST ports will be flipped! Be sure you know which port is intake/exhaust!

**York recommends that when lying 90° (horizontal) that the suction port be on top as to keep as much oil as possible from being pumped into the system.

Since this is intended to be a universal vehicle post I'm not going to cover brackets. Each engine and vehicle is different and I shall leave it up to you to figure out where to position the pump and how to secure it. The more time and patience spent here, the nicer the swap will look and the better it will function. I'll make a note that serpentine belts have a little less tolerance for something not being lined up right, be sure you have it correct and very little deflection.

The Pulley
First: Supposedly a serpentine pulley was installed on early-mid 80's Mustangs. So far, to my knowlege, none have ever been found. If you stumble across one in a junkyard, you are a deity among puny mortals.

There are a couple ways to deal with the V-grooves. One is to weld on a serpentine pulley over the V-grooves, you could turn the v-grooves down a bit too for a smaller pulley. Another option is to take the pulley to a machine shop and have them turn it down into a serpentine pattern. Neither of the local Ferris machine shops agreed to take part in this (they claim it will be too thin, but it's been done before) However, the schools welding lab agreed to weld on a pulley for free, so I'm going to go that route with mine.
 
#27 ·
Yeah, they need to have some sort of oil resevuar or tank of sorts. If you really want (I think this will work) is to find an in-line oiler thing they use for air tools that releases a meetered amount of oil into the hose so you do't have to keep re-oiling your air tools while under constant use. That might help, but I think it may only prolng the inevitable failure, I'm not sure how much oil it would require/how much oil the meter thing can supply. IF it would work like that and circulate throughout the pump. And then you would a need a hardcore seperator to get it all back out.
 
#28 · (Edited)
I'm running the Sanden from my XJ for onboard air. I cut a hole through the firewall into my glove box for the intake and ran a soft line from the compressor along the drivers side of the uni-frame (with the brake lines) to the 5lb tank in the rear of the jeep. Put a switch on the dash that engages the clutch and rely on the popit valve on the tank to relieve pressure (doesn't usually blow). Builds about 100-120lbs of pressure in about 2 minutes at 800-1000 rpm (idle). For oil I just squirt in a bit of air compressor/air tool oil every now and then into the intake line. Been running it like that for about 8 months and it hasn't burned up yet.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Waayyyyyy too overcomplicated, in my opinion. Just get an electric compressor designed for air suspension, found here. http://suicidedoors.com/AirManagement.php
My personal favorite is the Viair 480, for air suspension. It fills a larger tank faster, and is capable of 200 PSI. (not that anyone needs that much pressure for wheeling, unless you want to reseat a tire FAST, and possibly injure someone.)
And if you're the mischievous type, it would be fun to hook it up to a pneumatic tater cannon. :tonka:
You can get a compressor, 5 gallon tank, and all the fittings there for around $250 shipped, and there's no fabrication required. Just wire it up, plumb it, and you have onboard air that will work regardless of your engine's ability to run. (although the electric compressors use a fair amount of power, you may consider a second backup battery if you're wheeling alone)
 
#30 ·
it's overly complicated if you're rigging one up thats not stock. Alot of engines used these so factory brackets are out there. That means you already may have everything set to go. Custom mounting one is the hard part, converting it to air and everything else is easy.
 
#31 ·
Here is my setup. I have a tank that I carry around and a 75' air hose.

Image


I used my factory compressor. The main thing is trying to find a water seperator that can stand the heat of the engine compartment. My bowl cracked and really reduced the amount of air reaching the tank. The highest rated filter I have seen is rated to 175 degrees, far less than the normal engine compartment.

I plan on relocating the filter to the air tank. I used a small compressor filter for the intake.

Recently though, the air filter snapped off and the main plumbing broke at a fitting.
 
#32 ·
Ill have to snap a picture of mine. I used a lawn mower air filter and a section of 1/4 inch hard air line for my intake. I just tapped the end for a bolt and drilled a bunch of holes along it's length and it works pretty well.

BTW, a one-way unloader valve before the pressure switch makes the whole shebang work better.
 
#33 ·
BTW, a one-way unloader valve before the pressure switch makes the whole shebang work better.
The pressure switch that is in my pic has a built in unloader valve. It automatically vents when the swich cuts out. It has a peice of soft copper from the switch to the check valve.
 
#35 ·
I got mine from a local hardware store. It has a threaded base on it for air fittings (pipe thread) just thread it onto a T-junction in a line and hook up your wires. Mine is a switch intended for a 120 shop comressor but it's just a glorified relay and has worked ok so far.

You can get varying pressures but I think mine comes on at 90 psi and shuts off at around 120 or so.