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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #622 ·
LOL! Always a project to be done around here. I'm not afraid to try and learn a new thing or two... worst case I screw up and find another axle and start over.

I will need an alignment jig. I'll make one once I get the new spindles and can measure the ID.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #623 ·
Bought a 2.75" carbide hole saw so I could cut through the weld. It appears the ID past the weld is not 2.75". I'll hog out the depth I need to slide the new spindle in. Shouldn't hurt anything and will allow for a nice fit up.

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I still need to dress the flange and make everything smooth and flush.
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Unfortunately ruff stuff sent me the wrong spindles :( They measure at 2.875 and not 2.75. UGH! So a call was made and they are sending out the ones I need, and these were boxed up and shipped back. These are not made of an alloy like 4140 that others sell. This should make for easy welding without pre/post heat to prevent cracking at the weld.
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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #624 ·
Finally received my correct spindles. I called RuffStuff and asked for tracking information since it had been 15 days with no spindles. Some confusion and a call back later, I was told they had just machined some and will send today.... feels like they completely forgot. I told them that next time they have to make something because they have no stock, tell the customer while they are on the phone.

Planned to grab some aluminum and turn down some alignment pucks to bolt in where the carrier bearings go. Come to find out the lathe I have has to small of a 3 jaw chuck and I did not feel like changing it out for the 4 jaw.

Went to Alro to pick up some square tubing for a railing project I'm working on and saw some nice 3/8 thick round cut outs. Picked up two and decided to weld them to the bearing race. I then chucked it up on the lathe and turned it to be just smaller than the OD of the race and bored a 1.5" hole through it. It slides very tightly onto some 1.5" DOM tubing I have that will be my alignment bar. Now to just make some spacers for the spindles and I'll be set!

Automotive tire Rim Engineering Gas Bicycle part


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Automotive tire Wood Rim Wheel Gas


If I see/feel that the DOM tubing is bending, Alro has some 60" solid 1.5" A36 or something similar rod for $40. I imagine "close is close enough" for what I'm doing and some misalignment is going to be ok.
 

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American
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1,711 Posts
Close enough will definitely work. The rear axle in the racecar is so bent that the spindle and axle shaft on the passenger side both are blue from the hear of rubbing on each other. The WMS changes by about 1/4" depending on if you measure from the front or the back of the hub. Lol
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
·
6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #626 ·
lol. I saw your video beating the shaft in. I know it will be good enough. Figure I'll make it to the best of my abilities while its down and not really in a rush.

I put the pucks in last night and slid the bar through. I can see it bend when I tighten the driver side bearing cap. Does not make sense that it could bend there? I know the pucks are center/center with each other because I opened up the holes on the lathe without moving the tooling to keep everything indexed correctly. DOM appears to be "straight" but it comes out of the axle downward. Maybe I'll head to Alro and pick up that solid bar for $40.

The pass. side looks straight though.... lol
 

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American
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1,711 Posts
Flip the DOM and pucks around the other way. If the issue transfers to the other side of the axle, it's the DOM and you should buy the bar. If it stays on the same side of the axle, then the axle is bent. I'm not going to say it's common, but I also wouldn't rule out the possibility. Our rear housing is tweaked so bad you have to hammer the races into the lands in the housing or use the caps to suck them in. And we run 37" DOT tires
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #630 ·
I ran to jackson and picked up the round solid 1.5" rod. No issues now. However, the axle is clearly bent....both sides. So I'll see if I can heat and cool the side I want to pull it. The truss may not allow that? There is about a 1/4" gap...so its not huge. I read someplace that new axles can be bent up to 1/4"....who knows if that is true. I'm sure jumping it without a truss didn't help things lol.

I turned 1.75" DOM to fit snuggly inside the spindle to take up the difference so the bar is tight.
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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #632 ·
Its pretty straight. I think what was messing it up was I had a tube adapter on the inside and outside of the spindle. I took the inside one out and it fits much better. Its tight but I can rotate the alignment bar. Looking at other web sites, people are saying axles come from the factory bent. Good nuff!

Did a root pass, then welded the two tubes together at the flange, final pass tieing them together. Welded at 250 amps....soooo should be good. Could still spin the bar by grabbing it with both hands so it didn't move at all from welding. Will let it fully cool before pulling the bar out.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gear Bicycle part Vehicle brake

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #635 ·
How pissed are you going to be when it cracks on the first run? Lol

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
lol! Well....being that I welded it and not you....chances are good it will not crack !

I'm pretty sure if I can weld a broken Dana 300 up at silver lake sand dunes campground with a 110v mig welder.... this is easy peasy! Last two full days!

Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Vehicle Vehicle door

Wood Font Clock Rectangle Automotive lighting

Font Rectangle Electric blue Pattern Art

Wood Font Art Display device Rectangle


When you gonna come grab that tranny jack?
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #637 ·
finally got off my ass and started installing the gears after getting everything cleaned. The inside of the axle and tubes were a mess! Had a nice coating of metal paste all over.

Using a solid spacer over a crush sleeve. Thought I'd be smart and take the old bearing and sand the ID down so it slipped on and off making it easy for shim adjustment. Got it all set up perfect. Install new bearing and...yeah... realized my screw up was using the old worn out bearing. So obviously everything was out of whack.

Ended up having to turn down the spacer .001" as the shims I had would not get me where I wanted. Got the rotational torque to be 25 in/lbs.

Measured the old pinion depth shims and installed new ones to mach. Set the side lock collars and now just need to check backlash. Seem to have missed place all of the extensions for my dial caliper magnetic base. I'll have to run to HF and grab some so I can finish up with measurement and continue on.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #638 ·
spent hours on this damn thing. The yellow gear marking compound that was supplied with the bearings was half dry.

Used Prussian blue as recommended by my googles. Defiantly does not show as well....but good nuff?

I ended up back at the shim stack that I took off and at anywhere from .008-.011 backlash. These are the used gears so I know I'll never get that "perfect" pattern as there is no way of telling how these were set up originally.

Automotive tire Tread Automotive wheel system Bumper Wood

Hood Automotive tire Bumper Automotive exterior Automotive lighting
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #640 ·
Looks too deep to me. I would tighten up the backlash too. Try to get it down in the .005 - .008 range.
When I doubled the shim stack thickness, it looked near identical. When I only put the thinnest shim, it looked identical. Does not seem to matter what I really do the pattern comes out the same. I have pulled the pinion off at least 15 times trying different shims and adjusting the backlash.

When I look at various charts it seems its ok to have a pattern on the heel/toe like this? I know ideally it seems you want to be in the center/center....but wouldn't that all depend on how these gears were originally set up? Lets be honest.... the government had this unit so who knows who was in it or if it was ever serviced :ROFLMAO:

Musical instrument accessory Line Font Musical instrument Parallel
 
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