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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #601 ·
I was never nervous about breaking a 14-bolt shaft, and now 2 in one month. WTF?

So who is the go to for better than stock replacements?
You broke one as well, eh? I'd like to know what shafts to go to as well. I'm just nervous I pick up a used OEM set and they are weakened from abuse.

I got the shaft out. Welding rod to the end and pull. EASY! I used a screw driver wedged against the shaft and clamped the ground there so it was not to arch through a bearing or something. Pulled the cover and gears are good....not sure on locker. I do want to change out the pinion bearing though as it does make a noise and I suspect its that. The spline looked perfect on the broken shaft as well.

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Low Range Drifter
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I was never nervous about breaking a 14-bolt shaft, and now 2 in one month. WTF?

So who is the go to for better than stock replacements?
Would love to know the answer to that question too. Years ago I was on a wheeling trip at the Badlands with CheapThrillB2 and he broke a 14bolt shaft and we were all shocked. If aftermarket shafts are reasonable it would be nice to upgrade and keep the stockers as spares.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #609 ·
Yukon has Chromo in stock. Hard to find on their website but text me the shaft lengths you have an I can give you the PN's
they are cut to length, correct? What alloy are they?

I pulled the pinion out. Around 2 in/lb of rotational force....soooo i'd say loose. Bearings all looked good as did the races. They were a MOFO to get off. Have a rebuild kit coming from summit and going to be doing a solid spacer.

Next is to pull the ring gear and check the detroit.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #610 ·
Looks like I could have just pulled the other shaft and knocked it out from the other side....completely passes straight through. Good to know lol.

Pulled the driver hub where the break was. Bearings are toast...figured with the debris that went through it. Dang bearing was stuck so had to slot it and beat it off. The spindle does not look good..... not sure if its just a groove as my finger nail catches, or if metal is worn away? Also there are two small bulges on the spindle body....probably where the shaft got wedged?

Anyone know where I can get a spindle welded on?

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #613 ·
Pulled the ring gear out last night.

Locker looks great still. I see why many love this axle...BEEFY! I just spun the driver side adjuster out to get the carrier out.

All the bearings in this axle are Clark. Figured I'd find Timken. The carrier bearings looked good. The races had minor nicks. A lot of metal powder hidden in all of the voids from gear wear and such. Did a quick clean but will use solvent and clean before re-assembly. Was surprised to see split lock washers on the ring gear bolts. I have new bolts coming so I can just red thread lock them.
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Of course I had to buy a new tool.

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American
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1,711 Posts
they are cut to length, correct? What alloy are they?

I pulled the pinion out. Around 2 in/lb of rotational force....soooo i'd say loose. Bearings all looked good as did the races. They were a MOFO to get off. Have a rebuild kit coming from summit and going to be doing a solid spacer.

Next is to pull the ring gear and check the detroit.
Yes cut to length, but they have two different sizes of cut to length. 90% chance you need one of each but there are odd ball axles out there...I think 4340 chromoly, maybe 4140 I'd have to check.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #617 ·
Yikes! At least you caught it now, before something worse happened.
True. Now for the hard part and fixing :( Don't want to get another axle and have to set it all up again with truss and tabs.

Yes cut to length, but they have two different sizes of cut to length. 90% chance you need one of each but there are odd ball axles out there...I think 4340 chromoly, maybe 4140 I'd have to check.
Yeah I looked it up and I would need two separate sizes to chop down. Seems the 4340 is popular choice.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #618 ·
Decided to just attack the axle and see what happens.

Chopped it 3 times. The tubing is tapered and appears mine have the tubes friction welded together. Cutting it rite at the brake bracket nets me straight tubing.

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Can see the inner tubing. Measures around 3.5" and the inner tubing is around 2.75"
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Looking at replacement spindles.... I have the option of 3" OD or 2.75"

They are extra long so it gets a good hold inside the axle and allows you to plug weld it in for extra strength to help prevent bending.

RuffStuff makes one but don't know if I like the fact the seal is not OE as its smaller: 14 Bolt Full Float Axle Spindles

crane makes a nice one for more money but retains the OE seal. I need to see if they could turn it down to the ID I need.... or maybe I just make a sleeve to go from the 3.5" to 3", and weld them all together? Keeping it 2.75" would seem easier and just grind down the friction weld ring, insert the spindle and weld it up. 14 Bolt 30 Spline Spindles

Next up will be making an alignment jig. I can get some aluminum cheap through Alro so that isn't an issue and just turn it down on the lathe.
 

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F-U-CANCER!!!
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I would probably go rough stuff and order a couple extra seals. And if the id fits snuggly, I would probably skip plug welding it to ease replacement down the road. Unit bearings do not have aproblem staying together and they are mounted similarly. ?
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,328 Posts
Discussion Starter · #620 ·
That is who I'll be ordering from. Seems National makes a seal that is readily available if I were to ever need one in a pinch. I'll also buy a few extras to keep on hand. I cleaned up the end of the tube and its around 2.77". I'll use a hole saw to cut the friction weld goo and run a round flap sanding wheel on a drill to dress it up. I'll just plug weld it in 2 spots that are easy to access with a drill if I ever need to drill them out (hope not!).

I plan to pull the rear axle to make it easier to work on. I'll do the other side as well.

I'm not sure if a unit bearing is stronger.... I know many like the design as you do not need to worry about bearing preload, lock collars, leaky hubs, easier to replace.
 
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