[Plato2k5]

If you're tuning with HP Tuners or Tunerpro you can make the converter stay unlocked, or hold off on OD until 62, or really whatever you need to do. My C10 only locks the converter below 25% throttle below 62.

I'm using a standalone Megasquirt MS3 Pro Evo with another computer module for the trans through CAN. I can do settings like that as well...I didn't think about setting a TPS% threshold. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

I'm using a standalone Megasquirt MS3 Pro Evo with another computer module for the trans through CAN. I can do settings like that as well...I didn't think about setting a TPS% threshold. Thanks for the suggestion.

So you have a Microsquirt for trans control and the Mega for engine control? You should be able to use Megashift then to dial in the parameters however you need to. Megashift has hystersis and load based TCC tables in it.

 

[Plato2k5]

So you have a Microsquirt for trans control and the Mega for engine control? You should be able to use Megashift then to dial in the parameters however you need to. Megashift has hystersis and load based TCC tables in it.

I do everything through TunerStudio. The microsquirt is connected to the megasquirt by CAN. I have full control of the parameters...shift points, line pressure, tcc/overdrive, etc. I just need to play with the "lockup min TPS%" and "lockup max TPS%" Just something I never payed close attention to till you mentioned it.

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

I assume you run the stock computer?

Seems the Holley and Megasquirt does not use a dual table for gearing like a stock computer does.

The only solution is to use GPS, manual shift, or add a hall sensor at the output of the tcase.

I'm pretty sure I put a GPS module on my RaspberryPi computer. Just need to get an antenna for it.

Its not a huge issue...just annoying

Yup, stock puter.....

 

[Plato2k5]

Ahh.... that would explain why you can do that ha.

Adding info/pics from the driveshaft U joint thread.

Got the pinion angle parallel to the tcase output. I had to move the axle back more to get everything aligned. Doing this only left 1/4" of shaft on the spline at full droop. I cut the shaft and lengthened it 2-3/4". Used some .120 wall DOM as a sleeve and to help align everything. Did a root pas with the tig and then did a final pass. Filled with tranny fluid and she has ZERO vibration at 65mph even with the shaft being off center a bit. Still have some tcase noise, but its very mellow and does not sound like the case is going to explode lol.

I did not do a measurement of full compress before adding to the shaft. This is with the bumps fully bottomed out.... clearance is clearance ! The end yoke has a metal cap that is a press fit like a freeze plug. If the shaft were to ever bottom out, it would push that plug out and I would have another ~3/4" before it would touch the u joint body. When I build the new shaft, I'll make it 1/2" shorter.

The passenger side rear hub seal started to leak...again. Ugh! Looks as if the seal was starting to come out.

Installed a new seal I had on the shelf ad added some rtv on the outer edge to hopefully help lock it in.

The preload nut was not really tight. I have the ring retainer with the keyway slot on my 14 bolt. I looked up some info and found the military instructions on how to properly tighten. I think when I did it, I did it by hand till I could not go any tighter...than backed off to the closes hole.

 

[Plato2k5]

Made a silver lake day trip Saturday with my dad and brother. Left here at 7AM and then left the dunes to return home at 9:30. Jeep ran great. Forgot to raise the rear by 1" so the bumps would get hit a lot and compress halfway ~1". Otherwise the bumps were just soaked up with the suspension. DID NOT BREAK WINDSHIED THIS TIME! lol. Trans stayed around 170* till I would rip around and it would get to a max of 195*. Engine stayed nice and cool. So cooling system is working great all around.

While driving the entrance lane, I saw red on my dash. Take a gander and noticed coolant was 240*. Fans were not on. Took the plug at the firewall and disconnected and re-connected and the fans kicked on. This same thing happened to me in town once. It is a weatherpack sealed connector. I need to look at the contacts or just get rid of the plug and direct connect the wires and forget about it.

Stopped at the BP station to eat dinner before hitting the freeway. My uncle was following and told me the right trailer light was not working. After eating we decided to check it out..... found this.

So quick run to TSC and bought new shackles. Of course this was the first time I left my hilift jack at home.... so robbed the jack out of my truck and lifted the trailer, took tire off, and replaced the shackles. The OTHER side was damn near about to break as well....so those got replaced. Time to go through the trailer suspension.

Rock lights also provide a lot of help when it comes to loading/unloading at night

Time to order parts for the trailer, get it fixed and head out to Indiana Badlands on the 23rd.

 

[Plato2k5]

Started to assemble the new rear drive shaft. I like that this slip joint uses a press on seal versus the style that threads on.

 

[xj4life]

So the old one is going to be a spare now?

 

[Plato2k5]

So the old one is going to be a spare now?

Yep! I’m sure it would of held up to the abuse, but the blue Teflon coating on the splines was all gone. I messed up by installing the slip at the axle, so crap got in there as the seal broke.

the front is also the same lol. 😑. Expensive fail. I’ll just chop the spline end off and weld a new one on.

sooooo apparently my radiator has a crack someplace. Noticed a small puddle on the floor. Did some investigation and found a leak at the bottom (well, could be anywhere and it’s just obviously pooling up here). I put a pressure tester on and it’s very very very very slowly dropping. I’ll have to pull it out and see if I can locate it and weld it up.

got the new shaft welded. Still need to clearance the yokes So they get more travel. Pics for comparison

 

[whiterhino]

Check your hose clamps. I've had them loosen up over time. You might get lucky.

 

[Plato2k5]

Check your hose clamps. I've had them loosen up over time. You might get lucky.

I run AN fittings. First thing I checked, but they tight and dry. That would be toooo easy!

 

[Plato2k5]

Looking at some builds on Wide Open Design, it appears they weld the top and bottom plates to the tanks. I did not do that. Wonder if that helps strengthen it and such.

Time to pull it out and locate the leak and weld it up more.

 

[Plato2k5]

Found the leak. Was at the top very first row where it meets the tank. Tried fixing…. Just made it worse 😂. Sooooooooooo guess I’ll be spending another $437 for a new one. Fuck yeah!

I’ll be sure to weld the top/bottom plates to the tank. I remember reading someplace (now that I think about it more) that if you don’t, you’ll have issues. Whelp, I has issues.

 

[Mihlfeldl2005]

Found the leak. Was at the top very first row where it meets the tank. Tried fixing…. Just made it worse . Sooooooooooo guess I’ll be spending another $437 for a new one. Fuck yeah!

I’ll be sure to weld the top/bottom plates to the tank. I remember reading someplace (now that I think about it more) that if you don’t, you’ll have issues. Whelp, I has issues.

There's a repair shop in Lansing that might be able to patch it up as a spare?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Plato2k5]

There's a repair shop in Lansing that might be able to patch it up as a spare?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

From all of what I read online there is no real repair when its the tank to tube connection. They can epoxy fill it and pull vacuum but that is a short term fix at best.

Could not get the new radiator with the -16 AN fittings already welded on (Well, if I waited 4 weeks I could). I bought it with the hose fittings and purchased the AN fittings to weld myself.

Will pick up some aluminum square tubing that I'll weld to the tanks and span the top/bottom of the core for strength.

 

[Plato2k5]

Started welding reinforcements and ran out of gas Friday night
Oh, I’ll just throw the other tank of Argon on. Nope… empty 😆.
So today I swapped both tanks out. Time to finish this up.

 

[Plato2k5]

All done! No leaks yet.

Welded the 4 mounting pucks to the tanks and 2 -16AN fittings after cutting the hose fittings off. Messed with using pulse this time around....GAME CHANGER! Why the hell have I not used this before!? Played with the various settings and when I was nearly done with welding, I had the settings perfect for me.

The top plate that attaches to the tank and cross bar didn't come out the best, but I'm not going to re-do it to try and make it look better as it is just there to hold everything together and add strength. You can tell those are the very first things I welded. I did use RED tungsten for those....and I decided to do some research on what color is used for what. Well, red is "DC". So I swapped to some Blue and defiantly made a huge difference.

Cut the lower mounts off on the chassis so it made locating the radiator much easier.

Now to move onto getting the rear drive shaft finished. Can't wait to have another issue pop up.

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

If you ever have another radiator issue, you may want to adapt a rubber bushing in to the mounting of it??

 

[Plato2k5]

If you ever have another radiator issue, you may want to adapt a rubber bushing in to the mounting of it??

I thought about that...but seems people just mount it rigid like this and don't have issues. Not sure if it was just defect or maybe because there was no cross brace to support the core/tanks together as one?

 

[Plato2k5]

Finally did a thing or two!

Painted the knuckles

Finally decided to cut out the connector for my fan. It will randomly stop working..which is bad for cooling haha. I think what was happening is the connector was getting hot, and the connector was pulling apart because the plastic was getting soft.

Its so weird not having something to work on every night. I do need to grind out the ears more on the new rear driveshaft as it will bind at full droop. Currently running the old shaft. Otherwise, its nice knowing I can jump in and go anywhere. Been driving it a lot around town.

I did clamp some aluminum C channel to the front rotors and found my toe was the same front/back. I adjusted it so its at 1/8" toe in. Should help it drive better on the road.