[Plato2k5]

This may be my vibration issue. Time to double check angles.

After watching it a second time, I am not sure this is the issue. He talks about vibration during acceleration and load, and the noise going away when you let off the gas. I have the opposite. Never a noise till I am coasting.

I'm curious to what you find. I have the same issue as you.

I measured my shaft angle to be around 26*

When I lengthen my lower links I can get it to 19.3*

That is gonna be the best I can do unless I run 1-2* more pinion UP from parallel...which may be worth it?

 

[Mihlfeldl2005]

This may be my vibration issue. Time to double check angles.

After watching it a second time, I am not sure this is the issue. He talks about vibration during acceleration and load, and the noise going away when you let off the gas. I have the opposite. Never a noise till I am coasting.

Jim, easy way to tell if it's the case would be to just throw some stupid heavy gear lube in it. I'm running 90 wt in my 205...but I've heard rumor @Mr. Beefy runs 250 wt

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[Plato2k5]

Jim, easy way to tell if it's the case would be to just throw some stupid heavy gear lube in it. I'm running 90 wt in my 205...but I've heard rumor @Mr. Beefy runs 250 wt

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This is what I run: OIL ATLAS- RED LINE HEAVY SHOCKPROOF QT.

 

[whiterhino]

Jim, easy way to tell if it's the case would be to just throw some stupid heavy gear lube in it. I'm running 90 wt in my 205...but I've heard rumor @Mr. Beefy runs 250 wt

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I'm not a fan of masking a problem. My rear yoke has a little slop, which tells me the rear ball bearing is sloppy. I'm gonna change the rear output shaft bearings (when I get a chance) and go from there.

 

[mtnbiker995]

Jim, easy way to tell if it's the case would be to just throw some stupid heavy gear lube in it. I'm running 90 wt in my 205...but I've heard rumor @Mr. Beefy runs 250 wt

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Both axles and the Atlas on Brians car are running 250wt oil.

 

[whiterhino]

Both axles and the Atlas on Brians car are running 250wt oil.

Are you pre-waming the difs prior to racing? There have been problems with people running super thick oil and then running them hard before the oil warms up.

 

[mtnbiker995]

We did at hammers. Not at regional races though


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[Plato2k5]

Hmmmmmm. So maybe go to a thicker oil in the atlas….

 

[mtnbiker995]

It’s probably not necessary on a trail rig, but you could try it if you want. The gear oil we run is about the same cost as that redline oil.


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[Plato2k5]

It’s probably not necessary on a trail rig, but you could try it if you want. The gear oil we run is about the same cost as that redline oil.


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you don’t tell me how to live my life!

 

[Plato2k5]

Have not done much....feels kind of nice not working on it all the dang time.

Went out there last night and put the coil overs back in and got it sitting with pressure. Just need to install the tires. Noticed my sway bar bolt to the splined shaft was loose....so blue thread lock!

I think what I might just do since I like driving this on the road in town is just get the tcase and pinion parallel with each other.

When I go on off-road trips, I'll just point the pinion to the tcase.

This way the front pinion guard is not a shovel, drive shaft won't bind, and my bump pads will be level and the proper height. Also the driveshaft will be long enough on the splines.

Simple to just undo the jam nut and rotate the lowers/uppers. I have all the measurements written down.

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

^^^^^ If I did that, I would definitely forget and mess something up...lol

 

[Plato2k5]

^^^^^ If I did that, I would definitely forget and mess something up...lol

you ain’t wrong! I like to overthink shit often 😂. Should have Just left it!

 

[Plato2k5]

Been enjoying these nice days and had it out data logging and playing with shift points.

my 4.56 gearing and 4th gear locked is not making cruising the roads at 55 mph fun.

At that speed, my MAP is at 89.1 at 1551 RPM with 35% TPS. So clearly its loaded up really good.

Don't want to spend the funds to re-gear (ideal).Hoping maybe if I do a cam swap, I can get more power and it will clear this issue up. I NEVER had these issues when I had the Mopar 360 w/ turbo (granted it def. made more power).

Thankfully a cam swap on a LS is super easy and you do not need to remove the heads!

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

Can't you eventually get it to run in 3rd in that type of situation, or 4th unlocked? Seems like you could keep adjusting shift points to make it do just what you want, unless 1st gear is also to high...

 

[Plato2k5]

Can't you eventually get it to run in 3rd in that type of situation, or 4th unlocked? Seems like you could keep adjusting shift points to make it do just what you want, unless 1st gear is also to high...

This is while driving down flat ground. Its possible due to me trying to stay with running 87 octane and lowering the timing. May have to burn 93 and bump the timing up a few points. I was getting detonation so I pulled it back. Can't use the stock knock sensors since it has false sense events and pulls 10 degrees of timing 90% of the drive time.

Its just odd because this engine produces great low end torque....just wonder if I am missing something. I should probably spray it all down and ensure there is no intake leaks.

I'd like to run 4th and locked since I bought the trans to do just that. It will downshift if I step into it.

If this is the only issue I need to solve, I am very happy!

 

[Plato2k5]

Trip to Holly Oaks was good. Was dead there because apparently it states the park is closed if you google them on a friday. I have more rattles now...which means more loose bolts to thread lock. Makes it hard to hear for ignition detonation and makes a fun game of "what's that sound".

First real hot day test for the cooling. Engine would get to a max of around 215-217 and cool rite back down to 200. MINT! Tranny would get a max of 200 when I was really hammering on it, then cool rite back down to the170s. I was only running 3rd as having the converter lock in 4th causes the bucking effect. I really need to get my GPS speed sensor calibrated so I can have correct shift points.


The computer does not know that I'm in 4 low and uses the gearing data for high range....so when I'm going 10mph it thinks I'm driving much much much faster and will lock the converter. I "THINK" there is a way to use table switching to hit a button and have these settings change for 4 low. More research will have to be done. For now, it is what it is!

Also played with the ignition table and AFR table. I was trying to run at 14.7:1...but talking with my dad he was saying that the fuel you buy now days is most likely E10....so that makes stoich 14.1:1. Made a big improvement overall changing the table to reflect e10.

Got sucked into this pond. Tried to run around it and had to keep repositioning. Every time that I would, the jeep would slide further in. Had my buddy winch me back out. To the left side was a big ditch filled with water. This was a dead end and figured I could go around instead of trying to back up/turn around.

Perfect opportunity to check the front end for a noise you hear.

Didn't get to dirty. First time I have went off-road without the top (except for silver lake sand dunes).

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

Possible tranny solution? My tuner put a tow haul tune in my rig that has a different set of parameters. Maybe you could do that and as one of the items do not allow the converter to lock up and/or make it hold shifts longer....?

 

[Jrgunn5150]

If you're tuning with HP Tuners or Tunerpro you can make the converter stay unlocked, or hold off on OD until 62, or really whatever you need to do. My C10 only locks the converter below 25% throttle below 62.

 

[Plato2k5]

Possible tranny solution? My tuner put a tow haul tune in my rig that has a different set of parameters. Maybe you could do that and as one of the items do not allow the converter to lock up and/or make it hold shifts longer....?

I assume you run the stock computer?

Seems the Holley and Megasquirt does not use a dual table for gearing like a stock computer does.

The only solution is to use GPS, manual shift, or add a hall sensor at the output of the tcase.

I'm pretty sure I put a GPS module on my RaspberryPi computer. Just need to get an antenna for it.

Its not a huge issue...just annoying