Joined
·
5,896 Posts
^^^^^^ Thanks for sharing. While I knew you were supposed to set them up parallel, this explained it all very well.
YJ tube buggy build
521 - 540 of 550 Posts
Wow, that is the best visual explanation I have ever seen. Thanks @whiterhino for sharing!
I got under the Jeep tonight and found the following.... lol!
The Tcase is rite around 5* DOWN. The pinion was at 15* UP. So clearly FFFFFFFFd up.
For future reference:
Top links Nut-to-Nut when they are spun all the way on the Heim joint measured 28-5/8"
When I make them 27-1/2" I get 6* UP on the pinion.
I am now 1* difference instead of 10*.
When I fully droop the suspension (Only get 13" due to the limit straps preventing full 14") it SLIGHTLY binds on the tcase. Makes sense because I switched the ends around to keep mud and water out of the slip. I ground that side out for more clearance.
So if I do that again but to this side, I should be good to go. Will test drive tomorrow and see if all my noises are gone. Also looks like I'll need to weld new coilover mounts to the axle to make everything line up again...no biggie.
I got under the Jeep tonight and found the following.... lol!
The Tcase is rite around 5* DOWN. The pinion was at 15* UP. So clearly FFFFFFFFd up.
For future reference:
Top links Nut-to-Nut when they are spun all the way on the Heim joint measured 28-5/8"
When I make them 27-1/2" I get 6* UP on the pinion.
I am now 1* difference instead of 10*.
When I fully droop the suspension (Only get 13" due to the limit straps preventing full 14") it SLIGHTLY binds on the tcase. Makes sense because I switched the ends around to keep mud and water out of the slip. I ground that side out for more clearance.
So if I do that again but to this side, I should be good to go. Will test drive tomorrow and see if all my noises are gone. Also looks like I'll need to weld new coilover mounts to the axle to make everything line up again...no biggie.
Joined
·
30,961 Posts
You are welcome. It's a great visual! Grind clearance in the yokes and center strap is the best I have found to allow full articulation.
So the angles are dead nuts even at 6.2* down on the tcase, 6.2* up on the pinion.
Noise in tcase is still there.... here is a short video:
youtube.com
Noise in tcase is still there.... here is a short video:
Atlas Transfer Case Pro Series 3.8:1 noise
Been chasing down his noise. Was told it was due to drive shaft angles. Finally got around to getting the tcase and pinion parallel to each other at 6.2*Stil...
youtube.com
Joined
·
30,961 Posts
Is that when you are backing off and coasting? If so, that's pretty common with an Atlas. The gears just sorta rattle against each other.
Joined
·
4,478 Posts
My np205 makes the same noise when I let off and coast
Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
Joined
·
30,961 Posts
Mine does too and I hate it. I'm gonna change out the rear bearing which is a little sloppy to see if it helps.
When I let off the gas and coast is when the noise comes.
ugghhhhhhh. I'm sure having everything solid mounted isn't helping the issue either. Seems a lot of people are reporting the same noise on FB and searches I do online. Guess you can't have EVERYTHING when you build something to be strong offroad.
Now that the pinion angle is good.... I need to cut off my bump stop pads and clock them down to be flat again. Also need to cut the coilover mount on the axle and rotate them as the lower eye of the CO is digging into the steel tab due to the angle. Fun stuff!!!!
At least the u-joint should live longer now!
ugghhhhhhh. I'm sure having everything solid mounted isn't helping the issue either. Seems a lot of people are reporting the same noise on FB and searches I do online. Guess you can't have EVERYTHING when you build something to be strong offroad.
Now that the pinion angle is good.... I need to cut off my bump stop pads and clock them down to be flat again. Also need to cut the coilover mount on the axle and rotate them as the lower eye of the CO is digging into the steel tab due to the angle. Fun stuff!!!!
At least the u-joint should live longer now!
Joined
·
4,478 Posts
LOL! I can't believe I launched up the hill and landed on that damn block. I looked out the driver window and thought "you got to be f'n kidding me! I didn't just land on this big ass block..."
Someone responded to my FB question stating his buddy has the same chassis and tcase. Put a CV in the rear and the noise went away.
I guess I just don't see how if my pinion and tcase angles are parallel....how can it be an issue? I'd really hate to spend $700 to buy the CV joint and flange for the tcase. Put it together and the noise is still there. If the noise I hear is not hurting anything. I guess I don't care so much.
EDIT:
So this video explains it pretty well....seems the operating angle of the joints themselves is the issue... i'm past that 10* mark. Looks like a CV would be a big help....
Someone responded to my FB question stating his buddy has the same chassis and tcase. Put a CV in the rear and the noise went away.
I guess I just don't see how if my pinion and tcase angles are parallel....how can it be an issue? I'd really hate to spend $700 to buy the CV joint and flange for the tcase. Put it together and the noise is still there. If the noise I hear is not hurting anything. I guess I don't care so much.
EDIT:
So this video explains it pretty well....seems the operating angle of the joints themselves is the issue... i'm past that 10* mark. Looks like a CV would be a big help....
Joined
·
5,896 Posts
That video is the concept of why I used a cv. My junk is not as built as yours (5.3,4l60e,np231/sye,D44hp&nine), so I used what was popular back then. I found a used xj front driveshaft and incorporated it into my rear driveshaft build. Could you use a one ton driveshaft and incorporate that into yours? Then you just point the rear axle strait towards your t-case if I remember correctly.
there are a few issues…. First being 1410 stuff is crazy expensive for a CV. Secondly, the driveshafts I’m using are 1/4” wall and am not sure I can find a CV that will slip inside the tube.
Also, I hear people talking about how they snap the center ball when they hit the driveshaft on rocks.
i Hate this stuff 😂
Joined
·
4,704 Posts
Well I've learned a lot from all this. Spent last night checking driveshaft angles on my buggy, proabably going to double check them again. I'm good at keeping them parallel. My front ds setup I'm pretty sure I'm within the 10deg limit at ride height but need to double check that in the rear.
Joined
·
4,704 Posts
Its a learning experience. I'd say overall your build has turned out really well with limited issues. Always going to be a few bugs to work out. You've got this!
Joined
·
770 Posts
05+ super duties came with 1410 rear drive shafts.
I believe hd rams did too, i also think some hd rams may have had a 1410 double cardan stock in them, but can't remember for sure...
Hopefully you get this solved. Issues like this can drive you insane lol
I believe hd rams did too, i also think some hd rams may have had a 1410 double cardan stock in them, but can't remember for sure...
Hopefully you get this solved. Issues like this can drive you insane lol
I think the 10* “limit” would be more appropriate for a DD and drive a ton of miles. If my angles allow my u joints to live for a year of wheeling/driving, I’d be ok with that. $30 is cheap for good strength.
my tcase u joint did fail…. But I did smack it against rocks on the last trip to windrock and it had 6 prior off road trips on it.
i will just weld my coil over mounts with the pinion parallel and run it. Love with the noise. But know the shaft is beef. I’m sure the heavy shaft does not help matters with noise either. Lot of mass to speed up and slow down and speed up. Maybe I need to add more tranny fluid to it 😂
if I decide to do a CV, I’ll cut the mounts and rotate the axle. Took me 2 hrs to pull it apart, plasma torch the mounts, grind them smooth.
the issue with using a 1 ton cv is their driveshaft diameter would be different then what I have. I suppose I could always turn the ends down to match the ID of my shaft. I just fear snapping the center pin when I land on it.
another issue I found is my driver rear coil over has pressure still when I bleed all of the nitrogen out.
Cracked open the line to the remote reservoir and fluid shot out under pressure. Looks like a seal has gone bad allowing nitrogen to enter.
my tcase u joint did fail…. But I did smack it against rocks on the last trip to windrock and it had 6 prior off road trips on it.
i will just weld my coil over mounts with the pinion parallel and run it. Love with the noise. But know the shaft is beef. I’m sure the heavy shaft does not help matters with noise either. Lot of mass to speed up and slow down and speed up. Maybe I need to add more tranny fluid to it 😂
if I decide to do a CV, I’ll cut the mounts and rotate the axle. Took me 2 hrs to pull it apart, plasma torch the mounts, grind them smooth.
the issue with using a 1 ton cv is their driveshaft diameter would be different then what I have. I suppose I could always turn the ends down to match the ID of my shaft. I just fear snapping the center pin when I land on it.
another issue I found is my driver rear coil over has pressure still when I bleed all of the nitrogen out.
Cracked open the line to the remote reservoir and fluid shot out under pressure. Looks like a seal has gone bad allowing nitrogen to enter.
Thanks! I’m pretty happy overall with the build. Few small issues. It could have totally been worse! Having built it so many different times I kind of knew key things to look out for. That’s proved to help!
only way to learn is by doing. When you buy stuff done, this is what you are paying for. All of their knowledge. All of their failures and re designs.
I should be able to stretch the rear out a few more inches and that would also help with the angle of the shaft. My heims are at about 97% fully engaged on the arms, so I have plenty of threads to spin them out. The driveshaft would have to be lengthened a bit, but I need a new slip joint anyhow…. Then this could be a spare……. Win. Win.
Joined
·
30,961 Posts
This may be my vibration issue. Time to double check angles.
After watching it a second time, I am not sure this is the issue. He talks about vibration during acceleration and load, and the noise going away when you let off the gas. I have the opposite. Never a noise till I am coasting.
After watching it a second time, I am not sure this is the issue. He talks about vibration during acceleration and load, and the noise going away when you let off the gas. I have the opposite. Never a noise till I am coasting.
521 - 540 of 550 Posts
Join the discussion
