[whiterhino]

Plato2k5 = Good stuff! So I just need to get an assortment of R8 collets and go on a buying spree. Is it worth buying the premium brand collets or will cheap ones from amazon do?

Just cheap collets should be fine for what you are doing. If you want to do some tight tolerance stuff it might be a problem, but not likely...



Good advice. But I do not put end mills in chucks, just not ridged enough in my opinion and chucks are not designed to work under a side load.....

If I'm doing heavy milling I will use a collet. But if I'm just slotting a hole or squaring something up, a chuck works fine.

 

[Plato2k5]

Left for Windrock 4/6/22 and came back 4/10/22

Had a solid trip and all rigs and people made it home safe.

Went through all the seasons this trip. The snow/rain made for some very slippery conditions.

Started smelling gear oil. Finally looked and it was the driver side hub seal....that I just replaced before the trip. Went to advance auto and picked up another one and threw it in. Was good after that.

Tis but a scratch.

The belt even stayed on all trip! glad to see that is fixed. Trans stayed around 170 and engine never got above 205.

Still need to play around with acceleration fuel adder. You can hear it hesitates when I stomp on it from a stand still. Overall, trip went perfectly.

IMG_1789.MOV

drive.google.com

IMG_1782.mp4

drive.google.com

 

[Plato2k5]

Pulled the 4l80 valve body the other night. Never had 4th gear. After lots of searching it seems most points to the AFL valve. Sonnax and Transgo makes a kit to fix the leaky valve. You ream the holes out and install an oversized piston to re-seal it. When there is a leak, pressure to the shift solenoids is low and can cause a no 4th among other situations. Hopefully this fixes it and there is no major damage done. If all else fails, I'll just run it like a 3 speed till I can pull the trans and have it rebuilt (winter project).

TransGo - General Motors 4L80E Actuator Feed Limit (AFL) Repair

1991 to 2013 General Motors vehicles equipped with 4L80E and 4L85E automatic transmissions often wear out the actuator feed limit (AFL) valve bore. As a

transgo.com

Stock AFL looks a bit scored.

Tonight I put it all back together and have the pan back on. Just need to add fluid.

While under the jeep and the skid plates removed, I could access a lot of bolts. A leak I thought that was coming from the atlas seems to be coming from the transmission as the tcase to trans bolts were a bit loose. Added loctite and re torqued the bolts. The yoke on the front center support bearing was loose, driveshaft u joint u bolts were loose, transmission mount bolts to cross member were loose....basically added loctite to all the bolts and tightened them down again. Just shows how important it is to go through everything after a build.

My front driveshaft splines have a good amount of up/down side/side play. Seems the blue Teflon that's on the splines got all worn down to the steel. Should be fine.

 

[Plato2k5]

Was able to add fluid to the trans Sunday. My dad and I took it for a spin and I have 4th gear! Now to play with the ignition table so I can get rid of knock.

Pulled a data log and its nice to see that there is ZERO! slip. When it locks the converter, that has zero slip as well.

Still need to add the crossmembers and skid plates and It'll be done. Ready for its next adventure!

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

Nice to know it worked and how you fixed it. Sweeeet

 

[Plato2k5]

Thanks! I'm pretty happy. I messaged the guy who built it telling him I fixed it....and he responded that they always install that on every valve body....and must of missed this one....riiiiiiiiiiiiite.


While at windrock I noticed my front driveshaft was having a lot of slop in the splines. I pulled the shaft and the blue teflon that coats the splines is all gone. So now there is space....should be ok, rite?

The rear 1410 U joint at the tcase is toast and has slop. Not sure if my operating angle is to blame...or if water/mud got into the joint..... don't really want to spend the $500ish on a 1410CV. Also I'm told those pins always break?

Pulled timing so I can actually drive down the road in 4th gear with converter locked without it sounding like a dang diesel engine.

The fuel pump stayed relatively quite at windrock as well with the return line moved. I'm going to hook up the other pump and see if it makes it more quite. Maybe the pump I'm using is damaged from before. I know Aeromotive makes a stealth style pump for $120 that I could always run as well. Walbro pumps are known to be loud.

 

[JohnnyJ]

How old is the 1410 joint? I've had good luck. Usually rebuild before I've had to replace a worn out 1410 on a trail rig.

As for blue teflon on slip, it seems like at some point without it they become prone to rust/seizing. No timeline, but I've had a few get to that point and become really sticky. Maybe keep it coated in some grease?

How is your radio? Any issues so far. I'm sick of my handheld, and it's time to mount something.

 

[whiterhino]

How is your radio? Any issues so far. I'm sick of my handheld, and it's time to mount something.

Bout time! LOL

RE blue Teflon, without it you will start getting driveshaft vibrations which lead to other things........ Slop is never good in a driveshaft.

 

[Plato2k5]

How old is the 1410 joint? I've had good luck. Usually rebuild before I've had to replace a worn out 1410 on a trail rig.

As for blue teflon on slip, it seems like at some point without it they become prone to rust/seizing. No timeline, but I've had a few get to that point and become really sticky. Maybe keep it coated in some grease?

How is your radio? Any issues so far. I'm sick of my handheld, and it's time to mount something.

Like....6 off-road trips. I don't know if having the transmission mount loose allowed it to move around a lot? Or if the bad pinion angle I have and the speed up/slow down of the u joint and the god awful noise it makes while driving 45mph down the road. I just really would like to stay away from an CV. I need to flex the rear out again and see if I can squeeze more degrees out of the pinion before a bind. The 4l80 is defiantly not helping.

I packed them with grease. its possible I forgot to really grease them on the first runs out. Also having the slip joint on the axle end allowed mud/water to get in and it was just compacted each time. I since put the slip end at the tcase. This should also help with hitting the zerks on rocks and causing them to sheer.

The radio is great. however, I can't hear it lol. I need to get an external speaker. This radio has the speaker on the TOP, so even if I mounted it to the top of the cage you wouldn't be able to hear it.

Bout time! LOL

RE blue Teflon, without it you will start getting driveshaft vibrations which lead to other things........ Slop is never good in a driveshaft.

HAHA!

Yeah, the front will have to be replaced at some point...for now its good

Still trying to get my easy steering feel back. Not sure if there is just air trapped I need to work out from offcamber/laying it on its side. Nothing appears to be bent or broken. Hooked up the other intank pump since there are two. Still makes noise. I think its just the Walbro design and it echoing inside an aluminum box mounted to a steel box.

Since fixing 4th gear, I can now have the computer shift the trans. YAY!

 

[JohnnyJ]

The radio is great. however, I can't hear it lol. I need to get an external speaker. This radio has the speaker on the TOP, so even if I mounted it to the top of the cage you wouldn't be able to hear it.

That's a pain. Might have to mount it upside down.

 

[Plato2k5]

There is a audio out jack so I might try an external speaker....but it may just end up upside down lol.


Started digging into my stiff steering. I found the issue.

The bolt head was digging into the heim since it did not have enough rotational movement when full lock driver. Looks like the ram is slightly mounted lower on the passenger side compared to the driver. So full lock driver the passenger side binds slightly. Full passenger I do not have this issue (probably because it sits higher as the ram is not dead nuts level). The underside of the 3/4" bolt has been ground down over time. Not sure why all of a sudden its an issue. The other 6 trips steering was always fine.

Quick fix is to machine some of these spacers to allow more angle of operation.

Moves nice and easily with the engine off now.

The true fix would be to plasma cut the steering mounting plate off and lower it. I feel these spacers should be ok for a while...or for ever. The things you learn by just DOING.

 

[JohnnyJ]

I’ve used safety washers in similar setups. They have some misalignment and a large head to allow bolt to tighten against (I dunno, whatever).

Safety Washer

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

I’ve used safety washers in similar setups. They have some misalignment and a large head to allow bolt to tighten against (I dunno, whatever).

Safety Washer

I turned something similar on mine. Somewhere I read something along the lines that the reason heims are not road legal is that they can come apart if the sphere comes out? The "safety washer" eliminates the ability of it to come apart unless the heim main body breaks open.

My question is, how often do heims completely come apart? We have all scene some tie rods come apart. Main reason I ask is that I drive my jEeP on the road about 500 miles per year. I feel the heims are safe, but am aware I could possibly get in trouble if they did fail??

 

[JohnnyJ]

It's been a while since I saw a rod end separate. It was back when people were buying slightly better than TSC draw bar rod ends. I recall seeing some ripped open rod ends, but a safety washer won't help that.

As to can you get in trouble? well.. in this world you could do it all right and still have someone looking for you.

Car owner who left Jeep at dealership gets sued after worker dies during oil change

FOX 2: "You're suing the owner of the car who's getting his oil changed who did nothing in this case?" "I have to do that," Femminineo said.

www.fox2detroit.com

 

[COYOTE]

It's been a while since I saw a rod end separate. It was back when people were buying slightly better than TSC draw bar rod ends. I recall seeing some ripped open rod ends, but a safety washer won't help that.

As to can you get in trouble? well.. in this world you could do it all right and still have someone looking for you.

Car owner who left Jeep at dealership gets sued after worker dies during oil change

FOX 2: "You're suing the owner of the car who's getting his oil changed who did nothing in this case?" "I have to do that," Femminineo said.

www.fox2detroit.com

Wow that's insane.

 

[Plato2k5]

I’ve used safety washers in similar setups. They have some misalignment and a large head to allow bolt to tighten against (I dunno, whatever).

Safety Washer

I used those on the old build. I just didn't want to spend money rite now on them.... I may buy some and swap out later. At least I know it fixes an issue.

I turned something similar on mine. Somewhere I read something along the lines that the reason heims are not road legal is that they can come apart if the sphere comes out? The "safety washer" eliminates the ability of it to come apart unless the heim main body breaks open.

My question is, how often do heims completely come apart? We have all scene some tie rods come apart. Main reason I ask is that I drive my jEeP on the road about 500 miles per year. I feel the heims are safe, but am aware I could possibly get in trouble if they did fail??

I've also heard that can happen, but I can't imagine that happening on the street under normal use... or with quality joints. Now if they are using the TSC ones.....yeah I could see that happening.

I read that yesterday...... crazy in deed!

 

[Plato2k5]

Truly a body man over here! Instead of spending money for a replacement panel and wasting time cutting and installing.... I opted to just fix this crunched corner. I first tried a HF stud gun with slide hammer to pull the dents......NOPE! Studs would just come off. So I opted to just get the body saw out and make some cuts, bend things in place, use a pry bar, screwdriver, vice grips, etc.... Got it welded back together and it should work out just fine after I grind it all down. Does not need to be pretty at all....just flat so the top can slip back up under the flange.

I do plan on getting some corner armor to help prevent this issue from happening again.

Think I solved the radio having the speaker face forward and making it hard to hear. I bought a 15 Watt 8 Ohm external speaker.

For future reference. My toe in settings.

 

[whiterhino]

Best kinda body work right there. It may not be good but it's good enough.

 

[Plato2k5]

Exactly! Just adds character and further proof I use it haha.

So... I'm really really really really really really dumb when it comes to driveshaft and angles. So..... help me learn a thing.

I have a single ended rear shaft with 1410 joints on each end. Yoke on tcase and axle - no flanges.

Not sure what the angle is rite now, I basically have it set to where it will not bind at full droop. I get a lot of noise on the road (joint speeds up/slows down = noise and sounds like tcase is going to self destruct).

I already ground out some of the driveshaft yoke so it has more clearance...need to do more grinding.

Now do I want the tcase and pinion angle at the same * aka parallel?

Or do I want the pinion to be 1-2* BELOW the tcase?

So lets say tcase is 7* down.

Would I then want the pinion to be 5-6* up?

Or do I just need to man up and buy a $500 1410 CV?

 

[whiterhino]

Watch this and then ask questions.

This is sorta helpful but not great.

Spicer Critical Speed RPM Calculator

Calculate the optimal operating revolutions per minute of your driveshaft based on the style of the driveshaft and specific measurements with the Spicer Critical Speed RPM Calculator.

spicerparts.com