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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,023 Posts
Discussion Starter · #381 ·
Nice work on that engine and belly skid! Looks like it’s going to tie in awesome with the rest of your build. Your jeep looks like a freaking beast, can’t wait to see it all come together.
Thanks! Have it all painted and installed. Need to add some tabs for the plate to fasten to the chassis on the belly skid and It'll be all set. Nice knocking some of the smaller items off the list such as paint and wiring
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
·
6,023 Posts
Discussion Starter · #382 ·
Finished the belly and engine skids. What a pain to get the tabs mounted to the chassis. Note to self, next time around make sure to build the skid plates without the body on lol.

Photograph Motor vehicle Snapshot Bumper Automotive exterior


Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper


The jeep sits lower now with the added weight from the winch and skids. I'm happy with this.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,023 Posts
Discussion Starter · #385 ·
Can you change your oil without pulling the skid? I've always had clearance for my oil filter with no issue.

Yeah the oil drain plug is on the side so while it might be messy, I can drain it. If I need to pull the skid plate off, not a huge deal. The oil filter is longer than stock. I should be able to get this one off and the OE replacement will be shorter so it will defiantly go back in.
Looking good!
Thank you!

While I was working down in Tiffin, OH visiting one of my dealerships I call on I stopped Rural King next door. Was able to finally find Rotella T6 5w40 oil and I picked up a set of 1-1/2 - 2" wrench sets. I needed 1-3/4, 1-7/8 and 2 for my lower and upper links. The jam nuts were never really tight. I also changed my rear pinion angle so the bump pads are again level. I changed the pinion angle when I was chasing the Tcase issue.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,023 Posts
Discussion Starter · #386 ·
Holly Oaks went well. Didn't do anything crazy as I just wanted to test the suspension and find things that needed fixing. Seems the rear works well even with the sway bar.

Found the following:

-Need to hook up vacuum pump for brakes. Or look at the timing table and see if I can get it to have more vacuum at the lower load/rpm settings.

-Steering shaft bushing needs to be glued/held in place. It popped out but was able to just push it back in and keep going.

-Need to fix the belt tracking. Lost my belt which made me loose my steering. Thankfully you can still turn with no belt. The relocation bracket for the alternator and power steering pump is crooked a bit. I see wide open design offers a newer style thats machined. I'll have to call them up and see if I can swap it out or how to fix it.

-Heater would be cool. It did get warmish after running.

-The trans was running around 210 in high range. I think my fan was kicking on at 205. May relocate it to under the rear seat like so many do. This would free up some room in the engine bay.

-I need to get a hood on. Keep the engine clean and also things won't get drenched sitting outside when it rains.

-Need better side mirrors

-Be sweet to hook up a rearview camera to my computer screen.

-Fix exhaust leaks. I never have gone back and retorqued the manifolds and exhaust v band clamps.

Two videos my dad got on the small rock garden.


 

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Project Antitube
Joined
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1,079 Posts
Have you considered using one of your longer pieces of tube for a vacuum reservoir?

I have had decent luck using CTS-V/ATS-V vacuum pumps for assist. They do not come with a switch so you need to find one, I have one, but I don't remember what it came from.
 

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I'm not old, honest...
Joined
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30,657 Posts
Looked good.

Why are you running it in high range? In an ORV park environment high range will cook a trans. You may feel like you have enough power but it is SUPER hard on transmissions. My t-stat is 190 on - 160 off. (or maybe 195/65)
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
·
6,023 Posts
Discussion Starter · #389 ·
Have you considered using one of your longer pieces of tube for a vacuum reservoir?

I have had decent luck using CTS-V/ATS-V vacuum pumps for assist. They do not come with a switch so you need to find one, I have one, but I don't remember what it came from.
I have a small canister bolted to the driver side firewall behind the fender cover. I have a nice Hella brand pump I pulled off a VW I use to use when I had a pretty aggressive cam on the old Mopar 360 engine.... I think I had like 8" of vacuum at idle. I have a nice switch to control it. Bought one after cooking a few lol. I figure it might be good to throw on regardless. I like the fact if you loose the engine you still have good braking power.


Looked good.

Why are you running it in high range? In an ORV park environment high range will cook a trans. You may feel like you have enough power but it is SUPER hard on transmissions. My t-stat is 190 on - 160 off. (or maybe 195/65)
Thanks, nice to put a face to the name as well. You all looked to be having some serious fun on the rock playground.

I was in 2 high most the time and would just kick the front in gear when needing. Good input. I'll have to try low range next time. I'd like to have the fan kick on at around 190 and shut off at around 170 or so. Was glad to get out there and do some testing, just I know that if its running this hot when its 30* out.... i'll have issues once its 80 plus.
 

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I'm not old, honest...
Joined
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30,657 Posts
I have a small canister bolted to the driver side firewall behind the fender cover. I have a nice Hella brand pump I pulled off a VW I use to use when I had a pretty aggressive cam on the old Mopar 360 engine.... I think I had like 8" of vacuum at idle. I have a nice switch to control it. Bought one after cooking a few lol. I figure it might be good to throw on regardless. I like the fact if you loose the engine you still have good braking power.




Thanks, nice to put a face to the name as well. You all looked to be having some serious fun on the rock playground.

I was in 2 high most the time and would just kick the front in gear when needing. Good input. I'll have to try low range next time. I'd like to have the fan kick on at around 190 and shut off at around 170 or so. Was glad to get out there and do some testing, just I know that if its running this hot when its 30* out.... i'll have issues once its 80 plus.
Ya, we had a good time in the rocks. But cold. brrrrr

I tell my students to run Low Range 100% of the time in an ORV park environment. You only need high range if you can't go fast enough in low range. When your rig will do 40 mph in low range, unless you are hammering it, you never need high range. Sure, if you are running the main access roads, you may want to up shift and places like running trail roads up north or Silver Lake are different.

In low range you have better throttle control, better gearing, easier to get in the power band of the engine and less stress on your engine and trans.

re temps, I have either this one

or this one

But I don't remember. LOL
 

·
In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
·
6,023 Posts
Discussion Starter · #391 ·
It defiantly all makes perfect sense. I need to get the brakes fixed as you have to really hold the pedal hard in low range and it sucks. My vacuum pump will fix that. Just didn't have time to install it before going out. I need to play with my transmission settings as well and maybe lock the converter in 1st and 2nd which would cut down heat as well...but I imagine it would also increase the risk of breaking things being locked and no buffer of sorts.

I control the fan with my computer. Looks like I have it come on at 200 and shut off at 195. I'll have to change that.

Photograph White Light Product Font


Here are the lockup settings I have to play with.... lots of fun lol.

Light Product Font Screenshot Line


I did have a stall converter....but when the trans I built went to shit it put metal through it. I'll have to send it off and have it looked at and cleaned. Maybe when I pull the tcase I'll throw it back in.
 
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