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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #202 ·
spent a few hours in the garage tonight and was able to cut down the headlight mounts. Needed to shorten by 3/8" so I could fit the stock bezels. Added the other turn/marker LED and tack welded the rear drive shaft up. I'm thinking of moving the rear axle back more so that is why I left it a little long still. I would like the rear tires to reach past the rear tubular bumper if possible. I think I need to switch the front lowers with the rear to accomplish this. The fronts are longer with not much thread showing on the Heim joints.

Beefy 1/4" wall with 1410 joints.
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Love the cold chop saw cuts.
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Stormy D approves.
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Need to section this and zap it back together.
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Gorgeous welds I know.
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Looks so much better with the headlight bezels on. I originally planned to not bother and fix it later....but it was just getting to me and I had to fix it NOW.
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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #203 ·
My dad came by and we got the body and cage on. Need to bolt it all down yet but its sitting and looking like something! Sadly it looks like my factory soft top situation will not work :( The cage rests rite up against the body on the inside. I'll figure that out when the time comes and maybe there is an obvious solution.

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I'll be able to make the seat mounts to the cage, add a tie in bar from front shock hopes to inside roll cage through firewall, figure how I want to route brake/fuel/trans lines, fit the dash and steering.

Still need to finish welding on the rear axle. I should be able to do it with the body on.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
·
6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #205 ·
Too bad you couldn't ad a channel/rail around the top of the tub like a TJ and run a TJ frameless style soft top
I know rampage makes a frameless soft top for the YJ. It does say for use with the stock rollbar. The only thing that limits the stock factory YJ top hardware is the ability for the B and C pillars to slid along the channel. I don't need them to slid so if I can attach them with a pin/bolt I'd be happy.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #208 ·
Could buy the rampage and then take it to a canvas shop to heavy them fit it

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
oh for sure. I just hate buying something new then having to modify it:( but it’s an option.


I do marine upholstery and can modify a top if you need it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
ohhhh. Great! Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind for sure.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #209 ·
Put the harness on the engine last night. Getting closer to starting it. Still need to plumb the fuel lines and hook up the computer. This will at least let me check to ensure all the sensors are reading.

Holley? Never heard of her.
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Also torqued down the front accessories, intake, exhaust and oil pan.I add a red mark to remind myself it’s done.
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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #212 ·
Quickly wired up the computer last night. Flashed the firmware and added a base Ls tune. Verified it was working by seeing tps, IAT and CLT.
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ordered two AN fittings I need to plumb the fuel system. Hopefully I can kick the engine over this weekend. Dipstick for trans should be here tonight.
The lost of things to do is getting smaller :)
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #213 ·
Was excited for the weekend and getting the jeep started....but that backfired lol.

Did get the fuel system plumbed. Powered up one of the pumps and fuel started to spray out of all the injectors. I'm sure the mounts I made are slightly off causing this issue, or there are different O-ring diameters? Of course Holley intakes are all backordered till mid June. I'll figure something out.

Moved on to tearing the front axle down to re-seal and build. Went well until I realized I never ordered the inner axle shaft seals... FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF! So I put the cover on and ordered the parts.

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Brake parts came though!

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #214 ·
Screw buying a brake line straightener tool. Drew one up in Fusion360 for 3/16" line. Currently printing the rollers.

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Not sure what happened with the one inner hole. Maybe the plate was not fully dry from giving it a soapy water bath.


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The 3 body pieces will take 14 hours 10 mins to print. I'm sure I could have made it smaller....but oh well. Hope this works!
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
·
6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #215 ·
ok, so the print did not work. I made the rollers and spacing for 5/16" steel line...not 3/16" DOH!

I was able to find a set of Holley fuel rails that fit a Truck intake with long style injectors. Of course being made in China there is no stock anywhere. The rails looked to be out of stock till mid June. I was able to find stock at jegs for the rail kit with fittings and crossover hose. Cost more, but I had it next day! I also had to buy $70 brackets for the truck intake. ugh. But.....no leaks! Fuel system is done.

Also put on new ACDelco o-rings.

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Received my Yukon inner axle shaft seals for the front. Amazon sent me 4 so I'll have an extra set for future use.

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Waiting on Lower kingpin seals that will be here tomorrow so I can start putting it all back together.

Time for the good stuff!!! Filling trans so I can kick the engine over. My dumbass filled it with 12 or so quarts..... started leaking from the VSS hole at the back due to the sensor not being installed. I should have waited to add more as I turned the engine over so it pumped through the trans.

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The trans controller uses CANbus. I cannot get it to work for whatever reason through the MS3. If I hook into just the trans controller separately, it works great. Lots of settings I'll have to go through but I like what I see.

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While messing with things I saw the TPS was non responsive. Checked voltage and the plug did not have the 5v ref. Pulled the backing plate off the computer to check the small fuses on the board. Yep, one for 5v was blown. Of course these are backordered. I did a search on digikey and was able to find some (hope they work). Should have them this weekend or next week.

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Starting will have to wait till I get all of these issues sorted out.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #218 ·
For the CAN, do you have to do any configuration setup for bus termination?

Sent from my SM-T710 using Tapatalk
You do need to put I believe a resistor at each end to terminate the signal. This is a complete drop on harness so I would THINK it was done. Also the instructions for doing the install does not mention that step. I'm going to call the place I buy my stuff from and see what they say. They have always been very helpful in the past.

I made a post on their fb and people were giving me ideas. Some said they just plugged it in and away they went.

What's the advantage of hy-gard? I know on the hydrostat tractors you can swap it out for type f fluid, but never thought about running it in an auto trans.
From what I have read higher boiling point, better on the clutches and gears.. I have read threads where drag racers use it and can stay on the trans brake for far longer than any other trans fluid without melting parts. When I built my trans I soaked the clutches in this stuff.... its not like any trans fluid I have ever felt. It gets deep into your hands and is hard to wash out. Its a clear fluid so its best to also add a quart or so of normal trans fluid to tint it red so you can read the fluid level easier.

There are two types, low and high viscosity.

Here is a thread that has a lot of good info. As you can see, some think it won't work because its not marketed for cars/trucks/jeeps. Then you have people who have used it for years in drag racing, circle track, every day driving, etc.
 

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Hang all the thieves
Joined
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1,783 Posts
I'm only familiar with it because I have an old JD hydrostatic garden tractor. Never even thought about using it as trans fluid. I know that manual transmissions can be particular with fluid, I've wiped plenty of brass mush off of parts that used to be synchros that didn't react well to the fluid being tested. I kinda wish I had a toy to test that out on. Sounds interesting.
 

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In Da Faaaaaace!!!
1988 YJ
Joined
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6,017 Posts
Discussion Starter · #220 ·
I'm only familiar with it because I have an old JD hydrostatic garden tractor. Never even thought about using it as trans fluid. I know that manual transmissions can be particular with fluid, I've wiped plenty of brass mush off of parts that used to be synchros that didn't react well to the fluid being tested. I kinda wish I had a toy to test that out on. Sounds interesting.
I only learned from reading up on people looking for a higher boiling point trans fluid. And this was talked about by many racers. I hope it works for me
 
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