YJ tube buggy build

Engine and trans in


Time to open up Fusion360 and make some brackets to cut on my CNC plasma table


Fits Perfectly! Trans mount



Driveline in




gotta love the exhaust manifold bolts....


Gotta love Stormy D shop dog.


Getting the front carrier bearing angle and length figured out.

Messy shop


Brought the tub in to cut the rear fender wells out.


Putting my dad to work


Work smart!




making new rear fender wells

Need to make bump pads for the front



After a few months


Building rear bump pads


Bump can tie ins




All coilovers mounted


Full bump

Full bump with 42s

Front grill on


Plated where the old turns went


Building the new floor





Now to mount the radiator


Used these 3/4" thick aluminum pucks and welded them to the side tanks



New knuckles

1/4" wall drive shafts

Got the bottom radiator mounts welded. She is sitting pretty!





Mast oil pan showed up today

Has a nice built in oil trap



New water pump. Took the stock water snout off to weld on a -16 AN



Summit fuel rails fit!

Pulled the water pump and cleaned up the front a bit.



Installed a new steam port crossover tube


I'll be sure to flush the engine before plumbing the radiator in.

whiterhino said:

OK. Not saying you are wrong. Just interesting timing for me. I was over helping prep a Ultra 4 car the other night and filling the coolant system, where the radiator is rear mounted up high. The steam port topic came up and he said a lot of the U4 guys still keep it because it tends to do better.

Not in my wheel house so I have no opinion.

You are the second guy I know who is doing this WOD swap. They both look nice. If they had this back when I did my body swap (with a 20 year old frame) it would have been something to consider.

Click to expand...

I did some digging last night and found a TON of information..... high HP cars run all 4 ports blocked with no issues. Offroad rigs when they roll they have a hell of a time getting the air out of the system with them blocked.

Seems like you cannot go wrong with venting back to the radiator. People mention backfilling the head/block from the upper radiator hose before filling the radiator helps. While you run the engine, crack the line and it will bleed the air.

Some people think that not venting is what causes #7 piston failure. Since it runs hotter you get detonation. I think by default the back cylinders always run more hot because you also get more air flow so they leaner. I could always make the back run more fuel (EGT probes would be NICE! but I could use a thermo gun just as well).

My issue is I cannot find someone who discusses having overheating issues with the ports blocked vs vented. However, I would trust what the U4 guys are saying. I'll probably be venting it now.

Looks like it's becoming more popular. Not sure how long they have made this chassis but its amazing to drop the tub on and it just bolts up! I would have loved to make my own, but it would have taken me 2 years. My checklist had to include the ability to drive on the street and have a top.

Got some goodies delivered yesterday


One of which was my PSC ram and mount


Stormy D approves


The water pump bolts I took out were horribly corroded. Used a thread repair tool to clean up the threads before installing new bolts.



Time to install the new ACDelco water pump. Nice thing about going OE is the nice gaskets! Metal with molded rubber. No paper! Also installed the manual belt adjuster.

To keep things simple, I upgraded to a dual diaphragm booster. I do have a Hydro boost unit...but don't feel like getting it ported and running more lines. If this does not work, I'll make the switch once its up and running.



I do not have a heater core so I used a U to connect the two ports on the water pump.


Today came my LS24x drop on harness and 4l80 trans controller and harness. Using Megasquirt since I already had the ECU.



Ditched the 1 ton dual calipers on the front 60 and went with LugNut4x4 3/4 conversion.


Started to tear the front axle down to mount the new knuckles so I could get the PSC ram mounted. Looks like some of Drummond Island came home with me.


Looks like the bearing surface on the spindle is grooved. Seems to be a $75 replacement.


Old vs New knuckle.


On she goes

Ran into a snag. Looks like the machining on the knuckle keyway is off on this one. I cannot get the bolts to line up. I tried the arm on the other knuckle and it went on just fine. I'll call them tomorrow.

Some things that fund this build: