YJ tube buggy build

68903 Views 697 Replies 25 Participants Last post by Plato2k5, 1 mo ago

Plato2k5

Discussion Starter · Jan 24, 2021

10

Started with my old YJ...
-Turbo Mopar 360
-47RE Trans
-Dana 300 Tcase
-3 link front ford kingpin 60 with 14" King 2.5 coilovers
-Rear 14 bolt with 1.5" RE springs

The new new:
-LS 6.0
-4L80 Trans
-Atlas pro series 3.0:1
-1410 u-joints
-Front and Rear 4-link with 14" king 2.5"
-King 4" travel 2.5 air bumps
-Twin turbo??
-Full hydro front steering
-42" Pitbull rockers on H1s

The frame was getting bad and was never happy with the rear leafs as they were just not set up correctly.

Found that Wide Open Design sold tube chassis that would allow you to just drop a YJ tub on.....sooooooo I ordered it.

Purchased it with shock hoops welded 4 link tabs welded, engine mounts for LS welded, full cage.

Thing is a work of art! They did an outstanding job welding this all together.

Built a table to set it on (plans were provided by WOD as this is how they build them).

Utilizing their 14 bolt truss with the pinion guard and tie in support.

Bought 7075 upper and lower links. Series beef.

Getting the rear axle centered up.

Next is the front axle.

Have it sitting on all 4s. I used my old Kings and ordered another set. While they were backed up a few months, I made solid bars to emulate the ride height in the back.

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JohnnyJ

· #8 · Jan 24, 2021

Nice looking build.

JohnnyJ

· #11 · Jan 25, 2021

Plato2k5 said:
Thanks! I just started to read through your build and you are making one badass rig. I seriously considered the Goat built route. Met the guys at KOH 2018. I just decided to hit the easy button and buy something already welded up lol.

Looks like you have plenty of work.

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JohnnyJ

· #24 · Jan 26, 2021

Interesting info on the vent line. My griffin rad has a vent line just below the upper rad hose inlet. I wonder if you could easily add one to yours?

My setup is rear rad, so I've thought of putting a surge tank in the engine bay and running my vent line there. I read surge tanks on rear rad setups allow for easier filling on rear rad setups. I figure this is one less line running front to back, even though it's small. I've heard mixed feedback on just running it to the water pump. I remember KB8YMF saying it was not good mojo to do that, and recommended running to rad.

JohnnyJ

· #39 · Jan 29, 2021

I have never had good luck with Dana 44 or Dana 60 hub seals work worth a darn. It's pretty much drive near water, better repack the bearings. After racing the Wag and then the TJ for a number of years, I could go for never packing bearings again; and I know I didn't pack them often enough.

Thank goodness for unit bearings on 2005 SD60's.

JohnnyJ

· #41 · Jan 29, 2021

Yeah, you were due. I'd hit them with a little emory cloth to clean up the seal surface and call it good. O'reilly sells national seals for cheap. I think their house brand is rebadged National.

JohnnyJ

· #46 · Jan 30, 2021

Plato2k5 said:
I decided to just buy new ones from jeff's Bronco Graveyard. Cheap insurance and they came with the inner bearing and seals.

Can't go wrong with that, and now you can clean up the old ones and have some spares on the shelf.

JohnnyJ

· #59 · Feb 13, 2021

Can you do an experiment? Replace that inner bearing and then put it on the shelf and see if it fails without being used. I think it will break on its own.

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JohnnyJ

· #68 · Feb 15, 2021

Nice cut quality on that plasma table. Looks like you've spent time tuning it in.

JohnnyJ

· #73 · Feb 16, 2021

<old man>back when I was racing..</old man> I was told to have bumps bottom around 1" full bump and limit straps burn about 1" of full travel. This allows side hits and stuff that isn't straight on to have some protection.

JohnnyJ

· #93 · Feb 23, 2021

Not just good, but good enough. Throw some black paint on it.

JohnnyJ

· #99 · Feb 26, 2021

Interesting, first ive heard of a pi being used for that.

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JohnnyJ

· #130 · Mar 10, 2021

Nice work on the aluminum cell. The other day I was watching Vice Grip Garage and he was putting a Holley fuel pump assembly in one of these tanks, too.

JohnnyJ

· #137 · Mar 15, 2021

Dang! Nice!

JohnnyJ

· #148 · Mar 20, 2021

Zjman said:
Watching ur build thread gives me tool envy lol. Can you make those beer cap holders in the great state of Ohio? If so pm me a price. Thanks

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I think it's called a trash can.

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JohnnyJ

· #168 · Apr 7, 2021

For the price, I think grabbing HF 1/4 and 3/8 clicker torque wrenches is a good idea. I have used my 3/8 on lots of beadlock bolts and the 1/4 on engine fasteners like intakes and fuel rails.

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JohnnyJ

· #171 · Apr 14, 2021

I like the tie in for lower link mounts. I did something similar on my driver's side since the inner ear was on cast, too. Hoping it keeps it all happy.

JohnnyJ

· #177 · Apr 23, 2021

Bummer. Not a lot you can do to make room.

JohnnyJ

· #180 · Apr 23, 2021

I have a harness I rob connectors off from time to time. If you need that connector I could remove it

JohnnyJ

· #183 · Apr 24, 2021

Plato2k5 said:
After you said that I relized I had my brothers old harness in the garage in a box. It sadly has the same connector that I have (no 90*). Does yours have that??

Im out of town for the weekend, but I can check when I’m back.

JohnnyJ

· #184 · Apr 26, 2021

Looks shorter style but no cable tie back.

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