You can use 1, 2, 3, as you wrote. 4, 5, and 6 can be left unused. They are the "double" of 1,2,3.

 

I second this motion... Do not ground 4,5,&6

 

I have the same switch for mine, it matches my ARB switches. I do believe i have it hooked up like mentioned, and left 4,5,6 empty. I can double check tomorrrow if you don't get it by then

 

Or for some warn winches, hook 4&6 to chassis ground and pin 5 to the switched ground. From memory that should be brown.

That will create a ground when the switch is engaged.

 

It's a contra V switch. 3 grounds seem a little excessive, I'll try without it.

 

Not sure what winch you have, but for Warn setups and those that copied them the double throw switch applies ground only when the switch is activated.

You could just tie the brown (controller ground) wire to somewhere on the chassis and be done with it, but then if you ever have a short in the Green (In) or Black (out) wires your winch will happily run until you cut power some other way. Probably not likely, but likely a disaster if it happens.

The pic shows the wiring I described in my last post. The way it works is that when you press down the one pole of the switch connects the ground and the other puts 12V to the black (out) wire. When you press up the one pole of the switch connects the ground and the other puts 12V to the green (in) wire.

The White Rhino convention for mounting the switch is "down and out" and "up and in". If you and all your friends follow the same remote switch setup, then when a group of you are out and someone is running your winch then you have a lot less "sorry, I meant to go the other way" conversations.

 

I appreciate all the info. It's a Warn M-8000s for what it's worth. I believe it uses a contactor instead of a solenoid. Also, The switch will actually be mounted in a horizontal orientation and it's laser etched. hopefully no issues their.

In your first paragraph, you mentioned an alternative option would be grounding the controller directly to the chassis. Are you saying the other option would be to run it all the way to the switch (post 4 / 6) so it doesn't run continuously in the event of a short?

 

I appreciate all the info. It's a Warn M-8000s for what it's worth. I believe it uses a contactor instead of a solenoid.

I didn't realize they had factory contactor M8000s. Every one that I've seen is the relay pack. Is it stock or upgraded?

Have you taken off the lid to start wiring the remote wires, or are you pluggin into the factory connector? This is what a M8000 relay pack will look like with the cover off:

It will likely have the round 5-pin setup like this:

For a contactor setup, I'm not exactly sure.

In your first paragraph, you mentioned an alternative option would be grounding the controller directly to the chassis. Are you saying the other option would be to run it all the way to the switch (post 4 / 6) so it doesn't run continuously in the event of a short?

Yes, you can either tie pin 4 & 6 together to the brown ground wire, and tie pin 5 to ground or the other way around. Doesn't matter much. Just allows the ground to only be made when the switch is active.

If you only wiring up the 12V to green and black, then it won't engage the winch. You have to supply a ground to the brown wire.

Schematic:

 

Sweet. Maybe that means we can upgrade the 8274 with the contactor. Hmmm....
@jeepm715

 

Sweet. Maybe that means we can upgrade the 8274 with the contactor. Hmmm....

Apparently, It's a pretty popular mod for the 8274 guys. An English company called albright sells a contactor, or you can get a rebranded one from superwinch for a bill.