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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am looking for a shop that can bend and weld stainless exhaust in or around Jackson, Lansing area.

I am looking to get an intermediate pipe bent, along with 80 -90* angle bent for my turn out.

I can weld it up if needed but prefer a shop to do it all. This will be in 3" as well with a 3.5" or 4" tip

Im tired of warrenting my Flowmaster muscle truck exhaust. The flowmaster is gone after 8 months.


Thanks

Lance
 

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I'm not near lansing or jackson, nor do I have a bender large enough to bend that size tube. But, I can do something like this if that's what you wanted:





Why not just buy a nice 304 kit that already exists? It'll be much cheaper and easier. :confused:
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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I'm not near lansing or jackson, nor do I have a bender large enough to bend that size tube. But, I can do something like this if that's what you wanted:





Why not just buy a nice 304 kit that already exists? It'll be much cheaper and easier. :confused:
Just for clarification, 95geo is saying he can make the shiny one.:sonicjay:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm not near lansing or jackson, nor do I have a bender large enough to bend that size tube. But, I can do something like this if that's what you wanted:

Why not just buy a nice 304 kit that already exists? It'll be much cheaper and easier. :confused:





Well I’m kind of in a situation where no one makes exactly what I want. I am running a set of OBX headers due to one of the suppliers going out of business. I picked up a set of stainless long tubes with an off road y in stainless for $200 shipped. It deletes the cats so nelson can tune the second O2's out but it has a factory flange for the intermediate pipe. (Where the cat back starts)

Problem is I want to keep the muscle truck look, in stainless with a single chamber. Flow masters kit isn't stainless and well won’t be for 2 more years.

I can get a hold of 5' pieces of stainless but borla wants a fortune for it. My buddy went to Adrian and got a set of 2.5" true duals (I don't know why) in stainless for $250 but I called today and the guy said it would be a few weeks to get 3".

Lastly there is no reason to spend $600 plus for a kit to not even go over the axle. 4 welds 3 maybe 4 bends. I am almost thinking of going premium steel and welding it with stainless wire (since the welds always rust.) I already have the stainless single chamber muffler.


Thanks for the reply Geo. I will get a hold of you if I cant figure something out.




Also does anyone know where I can get an 8' to 10' stick of 3" stainless?
 

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Have a muffler shop bend what you need bent. Get a tank of tri mix and an extra tank of argon. Weld with the tri mix set the argon at 5 psi with a hose running up inside the exhaust. Done
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thats what its looking like I will have to do. I have the ability to purge the pipes, I and have a stainless setup for my mig. I just didn't want to go through the trouble of switching everything out.

And then theres the problem of getting 10' of stainless.
 

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I don't know if he can do it but Shawn at Muffler Man in Holt is a really good guy. He is one of the only ones I trust to work on my stuff. He's an old friend of my brother's and he's been doing exhaust work for a long time. If he can't do it, he can probably tell you who can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
which mufflerman? I know of atleast 3 for sure. lol

saginaw st, cedar, or out in okamos?


well I found that my local performance store can get me a 10' stick for $80 its 304-16gauge.

Now I need to find a exhaust flange. I know gibson makes one so I will have to give them a call monday.
 

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Do not have the place across the street from TSC do it on Airport Rd.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well, no one says they can bend 3" SS 45 degree's plus, with out it cracking. I have talked to every exhaust shop that I can search from jackson to lansing and no one knows for fact they can bend what I need for the turn out.

I will probably go to larrys in adrain. I know for fact they do SS exhaust and if I have to cut off the factory flange from the headers and purchase a V band flange and clamp.

I will just have them bend it, and i will have to weld it up. No one welds in stainless as well, just std. copper coated steel wire. (rust)


thanks for the replies everyone. keep them coming if anyone knows any other options other then welding up mandrel bends and making it myself.


also muffler man shawn was helpfull but I am going to pass on having the full kit welded in aluminized, Im tired of rust. I just got my truck where I want it.
 

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well, no one says they can bend 3" SS 45 degree's plus, with out it cracking. I have talked to every exhaust shop that I can search from jackson to lansing and no one knows for fact they can bend what I need for the turn out.
They dont have the right bender. Call up Woolf Aircraft and see what they would charge to bend you a piece. It will be cheaper to do what I posted above though.



I will just have them bend it, and i will have to weld it up. No one welds in stainless as well, just std. copper coated steel wire. (rust)
The welds only rust when you dont use the right filler metal.
Get some 308L or 309L grade stainless wire for a MIG welder and they wont rust. :thumb:

http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/308L0xx02.html?id=mJbwP3qT

http://store.weldingdepot.com/cgi/weldingdepot/309L0xx02.html?id=mJbwP3qT
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I understand the welds only rust with incorrect filler. Thats why Im going to have to weld it myself. I have a standalone mig gun, liner, and tank setup for stainless wit .023" 308L wire.

I was refering to shops around the area having the correct wire. everyone wants to sell me a custom made true-duals kit for $500 plus, and well thats not happening. I prefer making my own exhaust due to next semester we are taking the current 5.3 out and installing a purpose build turbo motor. we are going to use the stainless headers and offroad Y along with the pipe I currently have, but where the flowmaster single chamber is located, we will be instaling a T3/T4 tail pipe turbo with 8psi.

I can get a gibson stainless kit that is just like the muscle truck kit I have for $75 more then what I originally spent on the flowmaster kit. Summit already gave me a return shipping label and code to get my money refunded from the current aluminized kit thats 8 months old. The problem is that I don't what to end up cutting up a perfectly good kit and playing fab later. If I do it now and just weld in the T4 flanges I will be ready come november.

Also I am just going to cut the factory flange off the stainless Y and use a stainless band clamp. this way I can remove everything if needed.
 

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I prefer making my own exhaust due to next semester we are taking the current 5.3 out and installing a purpose build turbo motor. we are going to use the stainless headers and offroad Y along with the pipe I currently have, but where the flowmaster single chamber is located, we will be instaling a T3/T4 tail pipe turbo with 8psi.
STOOOOOOOPID on so many levels but that's just my opinion.

Why not make headers and have a turbo mounted where it should be..... especially in michigan?

And why are you going to have a "purpose built turbo motor" for 8psi when the one you have in there is just fine as-is with it's relatively low compression? Unless you're doing forged internals then I dont see the point... and even if you are, why only go with 8psi? forged internals on a 5.3L with a proper turbo setup can get you into some real power without too much trouble... 15-18 psi with an air to air intercooler will make a corvette killer out of your heavy fullsize truck. If I were you I would built the transmission and get a good torque converter so you can take advantage of the down time and get better performance out of it too.

Some day I'll be doing something similar to what I posted above on a TBSS. I need to find a new money tree to fertilize first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I looked at the cost factor of doing a set of purpose built headers and well its not in the budget. As for the purpose built motor, Its not a full on race engine, just a spare one that had a bad cam, and is being built to do this with. The engine in the truck currently is 11.7/1 with the 4.8 pistons and milled heads. I run a 150 shot on it with a window switch setup. But I didnt feel this would work to well with 8-12 psi. I am running a beefed up Trailblazer TC 2700 stahl, corvette servo's, transgo shift kit. tru-trac rear with 4.11 gears.

The spare turbo engine is an all forged eagle kit, but I am going a different route and letting a new company CNC port stock heads. I'm looking to get into the 300cfm range from stock heads. The intake will be a profesional products due to cost. I have talked with almost 10 people that are boosting their truck and they all said that they have had to purchase another truck intake or ls intake due to the truck ones cracking under boost and leaking.

My current setup is at its max before I need to upgrade the fuel system, and some other things. I have sent my PCM to Nelson a few times now and its not going to get much better.

Im not looking to make a vette killer just yet. start slow build up. This is a semi-daily driver.
 

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If you come up here I will tig your exhaust. It looks sooooo much better than mig on ss tube!

x2.
if your gonna spend the money for stainless, spend the extra and have it tig welded. looks so much better and (when done properly) the chromium will not get baked out. seens lots of stainless mig welds with rust in the heat effected zone because of this.
 

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I looked at the cost factor of doing a set of purpose built headers and well its not in the budget. As for the purpose built motor, Its not a full on race engine, just a spare one that had a bad cam, and is being built to do this with. The engine in the truck currently is 11.7/1 with the 4.8 pistons and milled heads. I run a 150 shot on it with a window switch setup. But I didnt feel this would work to well with 8-12 psi. I am running a beefed up Trailblazer TC 2700 stahl, corvette servo's, transgo shift kit. tru-trac rear with 4.11 gears.

The spare turbo engine is an all forged eagle kit, but I am going a different route and letting a new company CNC port stock heads. I'm looking to get into the 300cfm range from stock heads. The intake will be a profesional products due to cost. I have talked with almost 10 people that are boosting their truck and they all said that they have had to purchase another truck intake or ls intake due to the truck ones cracking under boost and leaking.

My current setup is at its max before I need to upgrade the fuel system, and some other things. I have sent my PCM to Nelson a few times now and its not going to get much better.

Im not looking to make a vette killer just yet. start slow build up. This is a semi-daily driver.
So you just listed $4k of stuff between the converter, trans mods, cnc porting, forged internals and etc..... and you're bawking about spending a grand to make a set of stainless headers to mount the turbo where it should be? You're going to have that much just into plumbing the turbo under the vehicle, it's a wash when you actually do the math for a realistic comparison.
 
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