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Axle Guru Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Which is better? Seems like a V8 is needed because of all the mud. But many people just go for the better crawl ratio and keep the 4.0?

What did you do, or would do?
 

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Covered in mud...
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17,915 Posts
Well.... what are you having trouble with now that you need to go bigger/lower for?

Since you've already added the big axles, I don't see a lot of downside to a V8. Not much difference in weight compared to the 4.0. But it won't help any in slow speed 1st gear crawling over the 4.0.


Not a Jeep, but I've stayed 4 cyl and 100:1 gears. Not enough for my tasted, moving to 205:1 soon. Keeping the 4, but putting a little turd polish on it. As of yet, I haven't not been able to follow bigger motors through the mud, although hill climbs its underpowered.
 

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Axle Guru Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I overheated the trans and can't go lower gearing in the axles as I have the 3 speed auto and drive it on the road still, which I am already over geared. I could just buy a atlas but seems I still won't have enough HP for the tire size in the mud. Plus I would like to have OD.
 

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Covered in mud...
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4.7l v8, 45rfe : Underpowered, overpriced.

6.1 hemi (ouch!) waaaayy overpriced for what you get. You can get the same power from an 6.0 chevy with an LS6 cam and intake for half the cost.

or a v8 with 2 extra cylinders and a 48re: Heavy, crappy gearing in trans, ~ same HP than a 5.3. You don't need torque, you need HP. My 4 cyl make enough torque, its HP we all need for wheelspeed. (I own one of these funny V8 +2s with a shitty 48RE..)

5.3s make ~ 300 hp, are available in Aluminum blocks (iron blocks are basically the same weight as a 4.0, the Aluminum block versions are about 80lbs LIGHTER than a 4.0 boat anchor). Iron blocks are available for about $700 all over the place, Aluminums are more like $2k. 4L60es are cheap and easy to swap in.

Gen III GM V8s have better reliability than any of those others.
 

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I'll Finsh One, One Day
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2,371 Posts
Why dont you just build your 4.0. Do a stroker of somthing. I am going the v8 route with my truck and it is being a pain in the butt. You probley have more room then i do though cuz the I6 is longer then my 4cyl. I went the 350 route just cuz you can build as much power as you want just depends how deep your pockets are.

If i were you id look into building your 4.0. Maybe do the 4.7 stroker and all the other things before you do a v8. Little easier then a v8 swap.
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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30,655 Posts
Are you looking to buy a bolt in motor? I have a 97 Vortec 5.7 with a zz4 cam and alum intake that I just pulled out. It has a knock at startup & should be rebuilt. But it ran great.

The other option is the gm 6.0. Just installed it & it is Niiiice.
 

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Axle Guru Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
4.7l v8, 45rfe : Underpowered, overpriced. This was my original idea, but underpowered but not to bad a price.

6.1 hemi (ouch!) waaaayy overpriced for what you get. You can get the same power from an 6.0 chevy with an LS6 cam and intake for half the cost. So true, decided it was WAY to much money :sonicjay:

or a v8 with 2 extra cylinders and a 48re: Heavy, crappy gearing in trans, ~ same HP than a 5.3. You don't need torque, you need HP. My 4 cyl make enough torque, its HP we all need for wheelspeed. (I own one of these funny V8 +2s with a shitty 48RE..) Even if it is made from aluminum? Was wondering about the trans. A 5.3 puts out 505hp?
 

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Axle Guru Extraordinaire
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Are you looking to buy a bolt in motor? I have a 97 Vortec 5.7 with a zz4 cam and alum intake that I just pulled out. It has a knock at startup & should be rebuilt. But it ran great.

The other option is the gm 6.0. Just installed it & it is Niiiice.
Not a real big GM guy. I know everyone else is. Plus I don't want to deal with all the extra wiring for the gauges.

And my 4.0 only has 51k on it. It will make a really nice motor for someone else :thumb: Plus to get OD I would swap in a AW4 which is about as big a pain as a motor swap.
 

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Covered in mud...
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What is average HP of the stroker, 250hp? It would be less headache but I wonder if it is worth the time, compared to a motor swap.
probably about accurate there. It'll cost more to build a correctly built stroker than to buy a V8 and the adapters. And you'll have less horsepower.

If its simplicity you are after, get a Jeep 5.2 / 4 speed / t-case of your choice. Then put heads and a cam in it.

I'd still go 5.3 or 6.0 first.
 

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Axle Guru Extraordinaire
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7,921 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
probably about accurate there. It'll cost more to build a correctly built stroker than to buy a V8 and the adapters. And you'll have less horsepower.

If its simplicity you are after, get a Jeep 5.2 / 4 speed / t-case of your choice. Then put heads and a cam in it.
That is what I figured, for the same $$$ and time might as well have more room for improvement.

I was looking at a 360 awhile ago, I will look more at that :thumb:

Thanks for all the good input also :beer:
 

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81 inches of fun
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14,286 Posts
Not a real big GM guy. I know everyone else is. Plus I don't want to deal with all the extra wiring for the gauges.

And my 4.0 only has 51k on it. It will make a really nice motor for someone else :thumb: Plus to get OD I would swap in a AW4 which is about as big a pain as a motor swap.
Bah aftermarket Gauges.... I smell a Chevy under your hood soon... come to the dark side young Skywalker...
 

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Covered in mud...
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17,915 Posts
Bah aftermarket Gauges.... I smell a Chevy under your hood soon... come to the dark side young Skywalker...
I'm doing this to my truck. Factory gages aren't accurate (trust me, I make them for a living, I know!), and the older they get, the worse. Senders, too, often are inaccurate or bad.

All new gages, all new senders(I'm even swapping in a new gas sender), and a programmable electronic speedometer is the way to go. Is it necessary? no, but I hate not having an accurate speedometer. These you push the button, drive a mile, push it again and its calibrated.

I'm using VDO gages, since I work for VDO. Cheaper than bling bling autometer, but better quality than the parts-store sunpros and the like.
 
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