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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone on here know where I can get a pinion conversion flange that will accept the GM 1310 CV flange?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Long story but the cv will be at the tranny end.We are male splining a dodge FWD tranny to accept the toy flanges.It's for a single seat buggy I'm building with toy steers and a 200hp 2.4 4cyl. If I can find these flanges I can run the high angle CV drive shafts out of an old rig,Plus I have a ton of these shafts laying around.Maybe I'll post up a build thread when I get further along but I'm currently ordering and rounding up parts for the build.Thanks I'll try giving them a call.
 

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Long story but the cv will be at the tranny end.We are male splining a dodge FWD tranny to accept the toy flanges.It's for a single seat buggy I'm building with toy steers and a 200hp 2.4 4cyl. If I can find these flanges I can run the high angle CV drive shafts out of an old rig,Plus I have a ton of these shafts laying around.Maybe I'll post up a build thread when I get further along but I'm currently ordering and rounding up parts for the build.Thanks I'll try giving them a call.

i love the idea of using a fwd transmission for the transfercase.

make sure you lock the diff in it.
 

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Long story but the cv will be at the tranny end.We are male splining a dodge FWD tranny to accept the toy flanges.It's for a single seat buggy I'm building with toy steers and a 200hp 2.4 4cyl. If I can find these flanges I can run the high angle CV drive shafts out of an old rig,Plus I have a ton of these shafts laying around.Maybe I'll post up a build thread when I get further along but I'm currently ordering and rounding up parts for the build.Thanks I'll try giving them a call.

that will be a fun project, love the fly weight buggies :beerbang:

worked on an h22 honda buggy with a similar set up, im sure the dodge output is something else altogether but, fwiw heres what i did in that situation. cut the cv output/axle apart from the honda end so there was an interface to the trans, used a pair of toy tcase flanges, (they could have been third flanges) clearanced the cv end with a shoulder, centered the flange and welded them together. the dshaft travel was in the shaft itself, the cv end was retained as it was from the factory, sorta lilke a birf end.

depending on your over all length and placement you might consider going two peice on both ends - more to monkey with but more possibilities too.

and - like skife said locking is mandatory, as in welded or spooled, lsd doesnt cut it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It will definitely be welded.So the build you did relied on the wire c clip to retain the rear shaft in the tranny?I seen Rock Apes build on Pirate and I think his is that way.If it will stay in there that way I would love to here a vote of confidence.
 

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It will definitely be welded.So the build you did relied on the wire c clip to retain the rear shaft in the tranny?I seen Rock Apes build on Pirate and I think his is that way.If it will stay in there that way I would love to here a vote of confidence.
i didnt use the factory clip - it was kinda on the edge to me, didnt feel 100% about it. i figured the main factors were the frictional force in the DS splines vs the pull force of the clip/axle in stock form and of course dragging on the drive shaft in either direction (high centered in the rocks, or whatever)
i went up a gage or two larger in wire size, ring rolled it, and munched it in the press a few times till it had a washer like flat formed in it. it put a radius back on the lead edge and left the other side sharp, then gave it a crude heat treating for hardness and a little spring. used a sleeve to drive it on the shaft then put the whole thing in with a deadblow hammer - radius side facing the diff, sharper side facing you as you put it in so it acts like a one-way barb.

used a slide hammer to test it and couldnt get it apart. good for wheeling :thumb: buuuuuut not so much for service should you need to tear it all down for some reason.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Good info but I'm looking for a serviceable tranny.I'm not in anyway knocking the way you did it so don't take offense,I just know the way I usually drive and the amount of parts I break.The issues I'm having is (1) it's a manual tranny and most I've seen go auto for the ,easier on parts aspect,but I want the manual for this build because of the aftermarket support they get(2)If I tear this up I will be tearing it apart and replacing parts with cryoed parts as broke.That's providing the transmission case don't go with them.Don't poke fun but I've been playing with the 2.0 and 2.4 engines in my D.D. Neon for a while.That's another reason for the manual.They had 2 gear ratios and a slight variation for one of them.One had 3:55 final drive and the other 3:94 FD.The 3:94 tranny had 2 variations One had a wide ratio O.D. 5th gear and the other had a short ratio 5th.I happened to of picked up all three,for fine tuning the gearing later.I hoping to get a good predictable crawler that has some shit and get when I want it.May later throw the turbo on the 2.4 and go for broke.Thanks for the info guys.
 

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no offense taken :thumb: it was an automatic with zero aftermarket support so it was simpler to go bomb proof and swap whole transmissions if it broke - not worth it to get into the internals.


besides testing pull forces, etc as it is; it might work to do a two peice output flange. that way it would clear the case for removal. you could use the spline end and flange off a two piece drive shaft, weld the spline end to the cv end - then you can take the flange/s off and on to get it apart, and the splined cv stays in. guess it kinda depends on the id clearance in the case. eh - anyways - theres a bit on two peice ds's in my current build thread, fwiw. http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=113245
 
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