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Direct Drive FTW
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2,463 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So here is the setup. I have some 87 fj60 axles and plan on running 33" tires and a spring under setup that will give me 2 to 4" of lift. These are going under a 69 cj5 with a dauntless 225, T18 and Dana 18. The stock springs/shackles are junk. Out boarding the frame mounts/shackles with a yj or old man emu style lift come to mind
I want flex off road and control on the road using sway bars.
What I do not want is vibration at 70 mph(yes this belly scraper that will have most of the body missing--think of a tube buggy cj-- and will spend most of its time on the street.) I plan on running double cardon joints to help with this.

I do plan on beating on this thing and skid plates larger shafts/ox or arb lockers and moly shafts are in the plan.
Yes I am dumping a bit of cash into this one.

Now that you know the background. Should I do a cut and turn or can I simply get away welding on new perches and turning the carrier up.
 

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I like sparklers
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175 Posts
Id put some steel shims in there and call it a day.
I think I have 4degree shims on my sprung under FJ 40. I have a 4inch BDS spring lift and 2 inch over stock shackles. Clearing 35s without issue.

The Cardon joints will help out and the shims will get the pumpkin pointed toward the Tcase.

The only reason I would cut and turn an axle is to go spring over with stock leafs.
Again this is for an FJ 40 but a CJ 5 is close for size/weight. Spring over with stock leafs will get you about 5 inches, depending on the sag of the springs.

.02
 

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Direct Drive FTW
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2,463 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm looking for flex and a smooth ride on the road(with sway bars and the shocks connected). I am shying away from soa because of the issues it causes in a daily driver. If this was a trail rig.or ever becomes one due to the cage/body/frame somehow getting damaged beyond repair(doubt it as Major beef is coming to town on that one) .it would be different.

Shims seem way to easy. But that makes sense and I could see myself doing that with this. Did you find the correct angel with them then make a one piece slug welding it to the perch?
 

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Axle breakin' 101
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3,128 Posts
Being a mainly street rig, moving the front pinion without readjusting the knuckle will adversely affect your steering. CJ-5's have less than stellar street manners to begin with. The rear is fine with new perches and a cv shaft.
 

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Covered in mud...
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17,915 Posts
To answer this, you really ought to get everything into the Jeep, and then measure your angles. That will tell you whether you need to cut and turn, really.

On my last Toy/Diamond front, I had the pinion up an extra 5*, which gave me a prefect angle. That was relative to a minitruck axle, I don't know what the stock specs are on the 60 axles. The minis don't have tons of caster built into them anyway.

Put it together, and just tack the front perches and then measure your joint angles. YOu will need to get your drivetrain placed right to know where your t-case will be, and what tilt angle it will have. Likely a CV at the t-case and then just a standard u joint at the axle.
 
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