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(513) 891-8372
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Discussion Starter #1
I didn't want to hijack the other thread so I started a new one.

Anyway, I was reading about the TJ shaft change and was wondering about issues with having a locker in the front with those and no way to disconnect the hubs.

Anyone run into troubles with this? Or have troubles with front lunchbox locker in a TJ?

On the road I am talking about.

My YJ is a 87.
 

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As long as there is no "power" ie 4wd, the locker will not lock. I ran one in my tj with no ill effects. It will ratch when turning but no wander.
 

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I've had a lock right in the front of my tj for almost 8 years. No problems on the road except when traction conditions are different to each wheel. For example, when driving in the winter and braking to a stop, if one wheel is on dry pavement, and the other is on snow/ice, they will lock together and make a very unpleasant noise. This has never broken anything or caused any damage, but it is something to keep in mind.
 

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(513) 891-8372
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Discussion Starter #5
Cool....looks like it's time for some axle research. Gotta find out the specifics on the conversion. I have NEVER had a problem with the vac disco on mine but I would like stronger joints...if they are in fact stronger. Bigger == stronger in all cases. And I have to find out of the axles are compatible with early YJ unit bearings.
 

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if you are trying to convert from the vacuum disconnect to the solid shaft like the TJ, it's actually pretty easy. get some TJ shafts. knock the passenger axle seal out and get a seal from napa with a TJ axle shaft INNER DIAMETER and a YJ vacuum disconnect OUTER DIAMETER. they can look up those numbers and match a seal. i have the part number somewhere but will have to find it again.

put the new seal in place. remove everything from the vacuum motor housing and seal the hole where the motor pin goes into the cover plate with an expanding rubber plug from the hardware store. then install the TJ shaft. if using a used shaft, make sure you use a very very fine grit sand paper and polish the shaft until it's PERFECTLY smooth like glass. when you look at the 2 piece shaft compared to the one piece shaft, you'll see where the seal rides on the 2piece shaft and where it will be on the one piece shaft. the shaft has to be polished from the splines up to that spot where the seal rides otherwise it will ruin the seal.

it sounds alot more complicated than it is. i did it on my wifes jeep.

and yes the shafts will work fine with your unibearing/hub assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Write-ups say there is more than one seal involved and you have to pull the carrier to put one in.
 

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1 Seal. I've done it on my wifes.
in this conversion, the new passenger seal will be placed inside the vacuum motor section of the axle tube instead of right in the edge of the diff like a regular D30.


yes you have to pull the carrier.
 

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2013 King of da Moustache
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quick info inner tj shafts can only be used in the swap. yj knuckles do not work w/ tj outter shafts.

best is to do both seals.... less worry about dirt/sand/mud and replace the driver inner diff seal as well.
 

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quick info inner tj shafts can only be used in the swap. yj knuckles do not work w/ tj outter shafts.
Huh? I have not heard of this problem. That makes it super hard since the only YJ 297 outers are 1995 model, or with ABS. Not saying it doesn't exist, just never heard of it. I ran TJ outers.

Call warn and ask for the seal that comes with their lock out hub kit for the YJ. The passenger side axle tube on the YJ d30 isn't machined for a seal, so a TJ seal or YJ driver side seal won't work. Warn has the right seal and they even sell it in a kit with a block off plate for the vacuum motor if you like.

Also your front drive shaft will spin 100% of the time now. On an old YJ shaft usually the Teflon is wore off the splines so it's gonna have some play in it. It will probably vibe so you will need a new one.

You HAVE to install that seal in the passenger inner tube, nothing else will work. I'm sure you understand that, but a lot of people have tried a lot of different things to avoid pulling the front axle apart.
 

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2013 King of da Moustache
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fullthrottle
quick info inner tj shafts can only be used in the swap. yj knuckles do not work w/ tj outter shafts.


Huh? I have not heard of this problem. That makes it super hard since the only YJ 297 outers are 1995 model, or with ABS. Not saying it doesn't exist, just never heard of it. I ran TJ outers.

yes the tj shaft is 297x u-joint and abs or 95 yjs had these size shafts. but a tj outter shaft will not work in a yj hub and rotor. they are physically off in actually size. i should have said outters not knuckles

Call warn and ask for the seal that comes with their lock out hub kit for the YJ. The passenger side axle tube on the YJ d30 isn't machined for a seal, so a TJ seal or YJ driver side seal won't work. Warn has the right seal and they even sell it in a kit with a block off plate for the vacuum motor if you like.

u can put a seal in the passenger side pumpkin just clean it out and yj driver side seal will fit. i have done it on a different yj and i've also had the warn 5x5.5 shaft and lock out kit on my 94 black yj's d30.
 

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u can put a seal in the passenger side pumpkin just clean it out and yj driver side seal will fit. i have done it on a different yj and i've also had the warn 5x5.5 shaft and lock out kit on my 94 black yj's d30.
No you can't. They are not machined for a seal. Maybe you had one that for some reason is, but everyone I have ever seen is not machined for the seal. Which is why the warn kit supplies a smaller OD seal.
 

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I have personally done the TJ shaft swap into 4 different YJs, and have never had an issue with the TJ outers in a YJ knuckle.

I have yet to see a disconnect D30 that will take a Driver's side seal on the passenger side without machining, either. (Over 15 different D30s, now)


As for the original question, I have over 30K street miles on my TJ witout any locker related issues that had to do with the one peice shaft. (Some bent housing issues offroad, however :miff: )
 

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I carry a shank
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O.K. After all this, I think I'll just go with the posi-lok cable system and call it good.:confused:
 

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there is only 1 i repeat 1 i repeat again 1 seal in the passenger side, and it's in the axle tube NOT at the diff.

and the block off plate from warn is a waste of money when you can use the stock motor cover plate with a plug in the side. i'll take some pics of how i set it up on my wifes jeep.

Hombre: don't be discouraged by these guys arguing. just do it. i'll try to get you the napa part number for the seal you need.
 

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CR11899 from napa auto parts store.

after i took measurements and compared different seals while i was there at the store i found these to be a perfect replacement for both the passenger and driver side.

just incase there should be a difference in your part setup i'll tell you what i'm running.

89XJ HP dana30 disco converted to non-disco with 97TJ one piece shafts.

and if your really not sure, what you can do is pull both the old seals and take the seals and the new axle shafts that you will be using and take all that to the parts counter. that way they can take the measurements right on the spot.
 

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pared different seals while i was there at the store i found these to be a perfect replacement for both the passenger and driver side.
I wish I had a picture for visual reference on this one.

On a YJ d30 the passenger side seal is just outboard of the vacuum housing. It's a big ID seal. Probably 1.5x as big as a one piece shaft that will now be running through it. Since there is no seal surface on a one piece shaft in that location we can assume that you can't put a smaller ID seal there. (Even if you could the shaft moves so much at that location it wouldn't seal anyway.

Can we agree on this part?

Secondly. The driver side axle tube end (at the diff) is machined slightly larger for about 1/2" into the tube. This is so you know how far to drive the seal in, seal hits the lip, stop driving it in. Because of this the seal is slightly larger than the regular ID of rest of the axle tube.

Agree?

The passenger side axle tube (at the diff) IS NOT machined for the seal, because there was never meant to be a seal there... it's just past the vacuum housing. So you need a smaller OD seal to fit in that spot, and you have to be carefull how far you drive it in.

Some people try and grind it larger for a seal. And way back in the day that is what I did. It was a super HUGE pita and I will never do it again.

Maybe for some reason the XJ's have that lip machined in the passenger tube. I haven't paid attention to it at all. If the end of the tube is machined then yes, it will use the same seal as the driver side. But I have NEVER seen a vaccum disco d30 that was.
 

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I wish I had a picture for visual reference on this one.

On a YJ d30 the passenger side seal is just outboard of the vacuum housing. It's a big ID seal. Probably 1.5x as big as a one piece shaft that will now be running through it. Since there is no seal surface on a one piece shaft in that location we can assume that you can't put a smaller ID seal there. (Even if you could the shaft moves so much at that location it wouldn't seal anyway.

Can we agree on this part?
yes the 2 piece shaft seal IS BIGGER. but the part number for the seal that i gave has a SMALLER inner diameter that fits the 1 piece axle shaft. and since the one piece shafts FROM THE FACTORY don't have a seal at that spot is why it's so import to polish the shaft or replace it with a new one.

I HAVE DONE IT on my wifes jeep and she has been daily driving it and wheeling it for over 1 year with NO LEAKS.

Secondly. The driver side axle tube end (at the diff) is machined slightly larger for about 1/2" into the tube. This is so you know how far to drive the seal in, seal hits the lip, stop driving it in. Because of this the seal is slightly larger than the regular ID of rest of the axle tube.

Agree?



The passenger side axle tube (at the diff) IS NOT machined for the seal, because there was never meant to be a seal there... it's just past the vacuum housing. So you need a smaller OD seal to fit in that spot, and you have to be carefull how far you drive it in.
INSIDE where the vacuum motor goes, there is a machined surface for the seal just like it is at the diff on the driver side. EXCEPT on the passenger side it's by the vacuum motor section of the axle tube.


here are some pictures from the factory service manuals

97 TJ non-vacuum axle seal locations ON EACH SIDE OF THE DIFF.


XJ vacuum disconnect passenger axle seal location. TO THE RIGHT OF THE VACUUM MOTOR. IN THE TUBE.


YJ vacuum disconnect passenger axle seal location. TO THE RIGHT OF THE VACUUM MOTOR. IN THE TUBE.


and here is a picture from the factory service manual showing how to install the PASSENGER axle seal IN THE TUBE ON THE RIGHT OF THE VACUUM MOTOR.



damn i don't think i can show anymore proof than that unless you want to drive down here and watch me take the damn axle apart in front of any of you.
 
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