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40's baby!
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670 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anybody had / or heard of any issues with running 5.13:1 gears in Rubicon D44 axles?

I am thinking about regearing to 5.13's, but I am concerned they may not be so strong due to the size of the gear and thus the smaller size of the teeth....and we all know it's all about the size of your toys :naughty:

Any comments / input would be appreciated.
 

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I am the law.
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29,823 Posts
I'm kind of curious as to what kind of wheeling you're doing with the tire size in your avatar that you need 5.13's in a rig that already has a 4:1 case?

Anyway, yes - the teeth are staring to get small at that point, but do you have the power to break them? I run 5.13's, but that's in a 60/70 combo. I think I might lean towards more power and less gear with smaller axles so something else breaks, like a lockout or a u-joint.
 

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40's baby!
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670 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm currently running 35's but I have just picked up a set of 37's :rock:

I am still running the 4.10 gears and really find the rig bogs down on the freeway, thus it will be even worse with the 37's. Maybe 4.88's would be enough but the 5.13 will get me almost exactly back to the stock rpm's in 5th gear with the 37's.
 

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Visiting Admin
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9,065 Posts
id be more worried about your dana 30 outers than a 5:13 gear set. either way 5:13 seems like its gonna be real low with 37's i would go 4:88
 

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Support the Sport!
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Don't know if you need a gear that low or not but I run 5.13's in my front 44 (waggy) and I'm not worried about the ring and Pinion. I'm pretty sure I'll dump some u-joints or lockouts before the R&P goes. What I'm not sure in your case is how the Rubicon thick cut 5.13's compare to the standard cut 5.13's Running the numbers in a gear calc. says 4.88's would put you back to stock.
http://www.4lo.com/calc/geartire.htm
 

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M-22
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690 Posts
I would run the 5.13 with the 37s.

But I would definitely upgrade your axle shafts and get some beefy U-Joints too.

Try posting this over on rubiconownersforum too. ROF is another great offroad forum.
 

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40's baby!
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670 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Pavement pounder: I am running a stick.

I am torn between the 4.88 and the 5.13. If I decide to go back to 35's later then the 4.88 would be better.
 

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Jeeps, Journey and Jesus
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1,651 Posts
I'm running 4.56's in my D44s and I'm using 38" tires.

Still goes 70ish on the highway (and its an 85 CJ, yours probably would have more power). 4.88's would be the lowest I would go.
 

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I would have gone lower, like to 5.89's if they were available for the ford 8.8. But then again, I don't have you 4:1 t-case....

I know these aren't 5.13's but just to give you an idea of the guys I wheel with are running

4:88's with 4cyl non rubi 38.5" TSL front BoggerRear Wheeled HARD all day Waggy 44s front and rear. - No breakage that day. Jonathan's not broken a R&P yet but has spit out losts of u-jounts



4.88's with 4.0L non Rubi, 38.5" TSL's Stak monster box. Wheeled hard all weekend - No Differential Breakage. Scott's has fragged one R&P set.

 

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40's baby!
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670 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the insight...nice pic's BTW.

Low range is defintely not my issue with 4:1 Tcase, it's the dogginess in 2wd hi.

Thanks again.
 

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Premium Member
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9,000 Posts
i brake a u-joint everytime i go wheeling with my 37"s on my 44. i think im cursed.
Seriously.

I have been running the same set of cryo'd longfield 760 joints on stock shafts for 2 years now. 36 SXs, and I am not afraid to climb a ledge or a wall with the wheel turned either.
 

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702 Posts
Running 5.13`s with a 4.8 stroker and NV4500/Atlas on 37`s.

Havent broken anything but am in process of upgrading to HP60`s F/R.

But having said that. I would have changed to 5.38`s in a heartbeat.

Vote is for 5.38`s IF you plan on running 37`s or bigger. 5.13`s for 35`s.

Get chromo shafts/inners and outers. Buy the best U joints you can afford.
 
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