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Covered in mud...
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Decided its time to start dialing it in. Its been running good for the last 1.5 years now. So, starting to fix the things that bug me:

Wanted more stability, so Its getting 3 more inches of axle width, via a new diamond up front, and rear spacers:



More width from bigger tires (38.5 x 14.5 SXs), that'll pick up another ~2" of width..



While I'm at it, the wheels are getting beadlocks, also adding another ~1.5" of width. So the truck will be about 6-7" wider than before..



Also revamping the whole brake setup. Land Cruiser discs with V6 calipers up front, the rear is getting the old front brakes and calipers. I also installed a 1988 Supra 1" disc/disc master, and bigger dual diaphram booster.



Then, for good measure, its getting a new instrument panel, including all new senders for everything. The speedometer is electronic and programmable for correct accuracy.





I'll post pics when its all put back together in a few weeks. Its getting some other crap, too. New 120 amp alternator, new interior wiring/switch panel/cb mounts, hydro steering assist, Thorley header/magnaflow exhaust, and I still have to toss in the comp 252s cam...


Dang, this little pos is getting expensive...:(
 

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Covered in mud...
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17,915 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Yep, thats my mockup piece. I brought it to work today to transfer the dimensiosn to the computer and make a full size template. I am probably using a piece of 0.22" thick plexiglass I have for the panel, it will get epoxied in place, then the whole piece will be repainted.


Crappy gages has always been a pet peeve. My goal with this truck is to really have things working cleanly. Those are VDO gages, which since I design instrument clusters/gages for VDO, it was my first choice. They have kits that come with everything but the tach, including all new senders. My kit even came with a new float for the gas tank, and a screw-on VSS to convert the mechanical T-case signal into a pulse train to drive the programmable speedo. I lucked out, found someone sellign the brand new kit on ebay from a project he never finished. So I ended up paying about $150 for $450 worth of gages.


Hopefully I'll make some more progress on the rear discs tonight. I've been waiting for the longer wheel studs to come in, which should be here today.
 

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skillicous
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12,844 Posts
what is your overall WMS to WMS going to be?
 

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Covered in mud...
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17,915 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
~62" wms-wms front, 61.5" in the back.

rims are 15x~8.75 after the weld on BLs.. with 3.375" BS

With the tires, my excel sheet tells me I should be ~78" outside to ouside, and 49" inside to inside on the tires.
 

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Covered in mud...
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17,915 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just my computer and a magic 8 ball...
 

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Covered in mud...
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17,915 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Starting to look a little better. The holes are for the telltales. There will be: Left turn, high beam, right turn, Brake, Check Engine, and Battery/Charge.

I cut all of the telltales from scrap lincoln navigator clusters at work, and am making LED backlighting for them.



Testing the backlighting color options. Eventually, I'll retrofit LEDs in them when I have time..

 

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Premium Member
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3,279 Posts
~62" wms-wms front, 61.5" in the back.

rims are 15x~8.75 after the weld on BLs.. with 3.375" BS

With the tires, my excel sheet tells me I should be ~78" outside to ouside, and 49" inside to inside on the tires.
I sit at 74" with Toy8 2" Spacers 15x8's and 38x12.5s ..
 

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Flex Is OverRated
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2,767 Posts
Looks good.

Since it looks like I will be keeping my 4runner I am gonna try to do something similar.......only in the rear I think I am gonna usethe stock 8.4 I pulled from my Tacoma........should give me the extra width and a little more strength to boot :)
 

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Covered in mud...
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
you can make one of those that is 1/2 the weight, use 1/2 the wall thickness for the clamp and use a single pinch style clamp with 2-3 bolts on one side with a .125 groove or so for the squish. :thumb:
Yeah, thats what I was thinking of, Ive seen several of that stype from Pirate...

Hmm, I have some Sch 40 tube, which has a 1.38 inner diameter. I bet if I slot it big enough, it should suck down into a 1.25 ID cleanly.
 

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newbie
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5,820 Posts
Yeah, thats what I was thinking of, Ive seen several of that stype from Pirate...

Hmm, I have some Sch 40 tube, which has a 1.38 inner diameter. I bet if I slot it big enough, it should suck down into a 1.25 ID cleanly.
you need the surface area, the closer to the diameter the better.... if you want a few inch long piece of 1.75x.25 dom let me know, Im pretty sure I have a few scraps laying around.
 
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