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I'll Finsh One, One Day
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2,371 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It just put the starter on my 350 and temp. wired my push button in. Ran the main big power wire to the big post on the starter, and then the smaller wire for my push button from the starter to the button, then to the battery. When i hit the button the starter ingages but when i let go of the button it still keeps going. Have to pull the ground off the battery to get it to stop.
I do have the engine grounded and the wire fells hot after turning over the motor so i know it has current going though it when i use the starter. Took the ground wire off and the starter wouldnt go(hence not grounded).

Any ideas on what i should do or try:confused: And its in a 85 toyota truck so it is not the gm wiring. Even though that does not really matter with the starter.
 

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Buy a Fiat! Save the UAW!
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14,448 Posts
your over amping the push button. its not rated for the current draw to the solinoid and its welding it shut. most folk run a relay in the 30 amp range and the push button fires the relay to prevent this.
 

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I'll Finsh One, One Day
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2,371 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just went out and hit the button. Worked the first time and then hit it again and it stayed on. Now what is wrong. Did it fry the relay or somthing. It was a 30amp relay, at least im pretty sure it was. Said 30amp on the top of it.
What now?
 

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Buy a Fiat! Save the UAW!
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14,448 Posts
I am wondering if the push button is sticking inside. if so it could be causing it. the relay should have worked fine at that amp...weird.
 

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I'll Finsh One, One Day
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2,371 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I dont think it is the button cuz before i had the button i just used a wire and jumped it and had the same problem. The starter is brand new. Should i go exchange it or is the problem else where. Would like to get this thing finshed up soon and i dont want some thing as stupid as this holding me up.
 

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Registered
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347 Posts
Make sure you have your starter shimmed properly. Nose cones on the Chevy starters are never machined the same. Look through the inspection cover and make sure your cone is properly spaced from flywheel. Hope this helps, local parts store have shims in the "help" section.
 

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I'll Finsh One, One Day
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2,371 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Make sure you have your starter shimmed properly. Nose cones on the Chevy starters are never machined the same. Look through the inspection cover and make sure your cone is properly spaced from flywheel. Hope this helps, local parts store have shims in the "help" section.
The starter is disingaging, but its not turning off is what my problem is. I already had that problem where the gear did not disingage and shimed it so it works right now but does not turn off.
 

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Playing Possum
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6,751 Posts
I bypass the solenoid on the starter and wire in a Ford type solenoid up on the fender. The power goes from the battery to one side of the solenoid and from the other side of the solenoid to the starter. Then you just wire a power to the button and the other wire to the start post on the solenoid.
 

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Premium Member
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4,863 Posts
BEFORE YO DO ANYTHING ELSE...........

You keep mentioning that you are using the starter, but you haven't posted that you have started the engine yet....

If your using flat tappet lifters you will definatly need a new cam by the time you get around to starting the engine.

Engine oil alone is not enough lubrication to work-harden the cam-to-lifter surface, that is why they gave you assembly lube with the cam, I hope you used a ton of it. To properly break in a flat tappet cam you mast have tons of assembly lube, start the engine and immediatly run it at 2500-3000 rpm for 15 minutes or so. The rpm splashes oil on the cam instead of just oiling the cam bearings.

Point being- if you have cranked and cranked the engine over without starting it, you have deffinatly removed any assembly lube that you had used. If this is the case, drain the oil and replace it with Rotella Diesel engine oil and a can of STP (I'm serious). I hope all goes well, but without liberal amounts of assembly lube and oil-slinging rpm, flat tappet cams WILL NOT SURVIVE BREAK IN. If it fails, you will have some popping through the intake about 20 min into runtime, and when you remove the valve covers you will notice that some of you rockers are nolonger moving as the lobe's of the cam wear down instead of hardening and becoming stronger.

FWIW, Scott
 

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I'll Finsh One, One Day
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2,371 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the info. Yes ive turned it over with the starter but luckly very little. Just testing the starter. Now if i have that problem i know what to look for, instead of trobleshooting every thing esle.

And yes we did use a lot of assembly lube when we put it in.

You've been alot of help, thanks alot Strangler
 
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