[Captain Ledd]

I read through what the searches gave me and I still got a couple questions.

First, what I'm doing: I'm taking the CV from a Cherokee front driveshaft and putting it onto a rear driveshaft about 2.5-3" in diameter (yet to purchase). Fixed yokes on either end, so there is a slip yoke in the driveshaft itself. The driveshaft is 4' from end u-joint to end u-joint.

1. is the yoke/CV a press/slip fit into the end of the tubing?
   
2. if it isn't, any suggestions to keep it sraight?
   
3. the Driveshaft would most likely need shortened unless I strike gold, could I do this at the CV yoke end? or at the slip yoke in the shaft? (as in said here)

For balancing, I've read to use .25 cup of ATF fluid:

1. I don't have any auto trans junk around, would some other type of fluid work?
   
2. should I add this so that it is as close to the middle of the shaft as possible?
   
3. Or do I make that shaft with the slip yoke closer to the transfer case and put some in both ends?
   
4. If so, would I split the .25 cup or put .25 in either end?

As always, feel free to give me any other pointers as to keep this thing from flying apart down the road.

 

[Haggar]

Driveshafts are different, so I don't know if that particular is a press fit or not. On mine, the tubes were sweged so the middle part of the tube would have been too large to fit the yoke end.

I highly recommend going to a heavier wall if you are going to wheel it. Most stock driveshafts are like pop cans.

Heres how I recommend doing this:

First, cut off the old yoke end (or ends if you are retubing it completely). I use a chop saw locked on, and lower it just so it makes contact, and rotate the driveshaft by hand to slowly cut through the old weld. You might want some dyed alcohol or something to splash on to see the crack, as when you cut, its easy to not see the line where the two pieces are separated.

Next, cut your tube to length, and insert the yokes. If they are tight, great. If they aren't, but its close, carefully wrap a layer of tape around it, 1 layer at a time (no overlaping the tape. Cut 1 perfect layer, then to the next, etc) to make it snug. not being a press fit isn't a big deal, as a strong weld will hold the yoke just fine.

Next, tack weld it in place. with 2 good tacks, 90* apart.

Now, bolt the drive shaft into the truck, and jack up one wheel (or both if locked), and put the t-case in neutral.

Make a little fixture to hold a piece of chalk, and get it right up to your shaft, just past where you tacked it. Now, spin a tire(a buddy helps here), so the sahft rotates. You'll probably be able to see its wobbling a bit. Advance the chalk VERY slowly until the high point of the driveshaft wobble hits the chalk.

So, you get a chalk mark. Hit the chalk mark with a hammer to straighten it a bit. The chalk mark is always the spot its most out of line, so hitting the mark always straightens it out. Keep doing that until your chalk seems to be hitting even all the way around. As you get closer, be gentle with the hammer, so you don't knock it past stragith and bent the other way. Put a few more good hard tacks on there (I weld it still in the truck at this point) and try again. Still straight? Weld it up solid.

OK, so now its pretty good and straight. Get out your drill, and drill a hole in the side of the big portion of tube. Anywhere is fine. Squirt in some ATF(thats what I use anyway. Some kind of thin oil ought to be fine I suppose. Gear lube or thick oils would be bad jojo in cold weather). I used 1/2-3/4 cup, but my driveshaft is 0.2" wall and 4 feet long, weight ~30 lbs. Weld up the hole, and you are done.

I drive it at 55-60 mph and its fine for my truck.

 

[Bones]

use power steering fluid instead of ATF, since you don't have ATF around. The amount of fluid doesnt really matter, as it is self-balancing...

 

[whiterhino]

Nice writeup!:thumb:

 

[Captain Ledd]

Thanks a ton!

How nessecary is the chop saw?

 

[whiterhino]

You could do it with a hacksaw. Just would be more time consuming.

 

[boggin-machine]

chop saw will square it all up...

 

[Haggar]

chop saw will square it all up...

Not a cheap harbor freight one :tonka:

You could use an angle grinder, too. A hacksaw or sawsall probably could work, too. The trick is seperating the yoke from the tube, without really cutting the yoke.

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Basically its kinda like this: The yellow is the tube, the green is the yoke, the red is the weld. You want to cut the red, without cutting through the green.

I use the chop saw because its easier to fix the saw and turn the work, rather than fix the work and move the saw around. You could probably clamp a grinder into a large vice. Grinder/abrasive blades work well because welds are usually very hard and eat up toothed blades, in my experience.

 

[boggin-machine]

haha i didnt know anyone used that harbor freight junk... pay for what you get in tools... them harbor freight tools are almost disposable tools or trail tools loose and them and dont bother to look

 

[Captain Ledd]

Allright, most of that stuff I have. Thanks again!

 

[SHARPMACHINE]

Sweet write up hagger!!

thanks

 

[firehawk]

Good tech!