[Rushman_887]

Hi all. I am new to the 4wheel drive community and I have a few questions about some SOA stuff. Planning on doing this to a 94 YJ. When welding the new spring perches on is all that is required a series of spot welds or should you run continuous beads? If running continuous beads should I worry about warping/distorting the axle tube? My other concern is steering. I hace read that you can maintian stock style steering geometry with the use of an S-drag Link but should I worry about stress on the steering components. I have heard about other forms of steering i.e. High steer or cross over steering but I am not in the know about how to go about it. Is there any web sites that I could find helpful? Any info is appreciated.

 

[Renegade II]

Stitch weld about an inch at a time then let it cool, Just weld the sides, get a flat top knuckle & go with high steering, S drag links are unsafe, get a no hop bar for the rear (M.O.R.E. makes a nice one), brake lines, drive shafts usually need to be lengthened, watch your caster angle when you weld the perches on, etc, etc, etc.....

Lots to a spring over, got a couple of them.

 

[Rushman_887]

Thanks for the info. I am sure it's not an easy swap, but I want to clear 35's or maybe 37's. I want to run Dana 44's but I am not sure what the best doner vehicle would be. In the junk yard by my property up north ther is a late 70's full size cherokee that still has the axles under it, but I am not sure what models they are. I suppose though that running a tire taller than a 35 i should maybe opt for larger axles than 44's, but I guess I can start small and modify as necessary.

 

[PavementPounder]

Thanks for the info. I am sure it's not an easy swap, but I want to clear 35's or maybe 37's. I want to run Dana 44's but I am not sure what the best doner vehicle would be. In the junk yard by my property up north ther is a late 70's full size cherokee that still has the axles under it, but I am not sure what models they are. I suppose though that running a tire taller than a 35 i should maybe opt for larger axles than 44's, but I guess I can start small and modify as necessary.

The simplest axle combo for you is a HPD44/D60 from a 78-79 F-250. They are driver-drop, have flat-top knuckles, SOA from the factory, and will bolt right up to your springs. A number of members here run these axles in their YJ's, so you have people to hit up for information.

If you find a 78-79 F-250 Sno-Fighter or Camper Special, it will have a HPD60 front. F-350's from the same year range will be HPD60 front and D60 rear. No other years will bolt right up to your springs SOA.

 

[Rushman_887]

Now that is a very interesting piece of information, and I greatly appreciate it. Now my next question is, in order to clear 35's what size lift springs should I use atop the soa? Are there some brands better than others?

 

[whiterhino]

Doing a SOA will get you roughly 5.5" of lift which is plenty to clear 35's. Use the Rubicon Express SAO springs. They work perfectly for what you want. Don't forget your anti wrap bar.

 

[PavementPounder]

Now my next question is, in order to clear 35's what size lift springs should I use atop the soa? Are there some brands better than others?

Hell, your stock leafs would still do the job as Whiterhino suggested, but you don't want to do that.

Use the Rubicon Express SOA springs. They work perfectly for what you want.

x2. The 1.5" variety. :thumb:

 

[sodapop]

Do some research on the steering. I've got a friend that is using a bent drag link and it performs well but it's definitely not the best choice. I'm running High and crossover steering using flat top knuckles on a Grand Waggy Dana 44. It's a pretty simple swap out to get there but it's not cheap. If you really want to do the steering right, you'll have at least the following parts to get.

- Flat top knuckles, milled, drilled, and tapped for studs
- high steer arms for left and right knuckles, there's a good chance you'll either need tall arms or spacers to clear your springs.
- new tie rod
- new drag link

The front end gets pricey especially if you're going to regear it. One thing to consider is the width you want to run. Grand Waggy's will put you at your stock width, which will mean that your tires are going to rub your springs unless you get rims with less backspacing, think 3" or less.

Another thing to consider is that if you want to run bigger tires later, you may as well jump up to a Dana 60 now. i didn't and I wish I had, front ends are expensive to build, why do it twice.

If you are going to run stock springs, get yourself another pack and add a second mainleaf to it with the eyes cut off. It won't make them last forever, but they'll last longer. You could also get saucy and get some XJ rear leaves. Cut the smaller eye off the main leave an sleeve one of your YJ main leafs with the larger eye around one of the YJ eyes. Then you get teh bonus of a second main leaf and also have one eye military wrapped for extra strength.

 

[whiterhino]

If you are still looking at axles, these belong to my son in law.

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=97213

 

[PavementPounder]

Another thing to consider is that if you want to run bigger tires later, you may as well jump up to a Dana 60 now. i didn't and I wish I had, front ends are expensive to build, why do it twice.

This is one of the nice things about the 78-79 Ford front ends, as the HPD60 swaps in place of the HPD44 if you do want to upgrade later on since the F-250 and F-350 frames were the same during those years. The HPD44 also already has flat-tops with one side already milled/drilled/tapped.

Whiterhino's axles would not be a bad choice, as they are already set up with the proper gearing for 35's. The additional work they would require vs the Ford axles is easily offset by the cost savings of not having to regear. The F-250/F-350 axles would most likely be found with 4.10's.

You could also get saucy and get some XJ rear leaves. Cut the smaller eye off the main leave an sleeve one of your YJ main leafs with the larger eye around one of the YJ eyes. Then you get teh bonus of a second main leaf and also have one eye military wrapped for extra strength.

I think I'd just buy the RE springs than do all that, as they are also reverse-wrapped (unless I was already sitting on all the required parts, of course).

 

[Plato2k5]

Use the RE 1.5" springs...if my memory severs me correct you can get the 5 leaf or 6 leaf? I know someone will correct me if I'm wrong. I bought the 5 leaf as they are less stiff. they help a great deal with anti wrap but like said you'll want to add a antiwrap bar.

As for steering, you can make your own like I did with DOM tubing and weld in inserts plus heim joints. Or contact JCR and have them build you a 1-ton steering setup which is set at a great price.

 

[Rushman_887]

While I don't have the money for axles at this point in time, I am expecting my vacation check and my tax returns in the next two monthes, this will hopefully get me a good start on my build up. All of you guys hwo have responded I appreciate it. I am definitely considering pavement pounders suggestions about the ford axles, regardless of regearing. I am intending on doing a v-8 conversion so I would think 4.10 gears should suffice for a while anyway, then put up the money for lockers and gears. The jeep as it sits right now is a 2.5, automatic with 2" shackles and 30 inch tires. I plan on using a 305 chevy, either one of three trans choices (th350, th700, and Sm465) adapted to the 231 t-case. I have all of these parts including other various transfercases, but they are all passenger side drop which wouldn't work with intended use of driverside drop axles. I do however have a complete 80's full size blazer that I could canabalize everything out of, but stock half ton axles suck. Thanks for the info everyone!:woot:

 

[jeepeye7]

Wow! Good reading, Im new here and came across this post, Iv been thing of spring over and upgrading to a better front axle as well.
Qustion! If I found a front axle like HPD44 or HPD60 from 78 79 Ford, would it be pricey to shorten the axle to match my 8.8 rear. Or would you suggest running full wide axles. I would like to keep the 8.8, not sure the more practial way, I think Ill be digging deep into the walet on this one. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

 

[Jeepaholic]

Wow! Good reading, Im new here and came across this post, Iv been thing of spring over and upgrading to a better front axle as well.
Qustion! If I found a front axle like HPD44 or HPD60 from 78 79 Ford, would it be pricey to shorten the axle to match my 8.8 rear. Or would you suggest running full wide axles. I would like to keep the 8.8, not sure the more practial way, I think Ill be digging deep into the walet on this one. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Either run both Ford axles full width and use H2 wheels (5.5" backspacing) or H1 wheels stock (7" backspacing)

If you want to keep the 8.8 use a wagoneer 44 front it is the right width and then run wheel spacers/adapters or a super 88 kit.

Check out Jeepfreak81's build in the rig build section he is running the ford axles with H1 wheels and it is close to stockish width.

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=665

 

[PavementPounder]

Wow! Good reading, Im new here and came across this post, Iv been thing of spring over and upgrading to a better front axle as well.
Qustion! If I found a front axle like HPD44 or HPD60 from 78 79 Ford, would it be pricey to shorten the axle to match my 8.8 rear. Or would you suggest running full wide axles. I would like to keep the 8.8, not sure the more practial way, I think Ill be digging deep into the walet on this one. Any advise is greatly appreciated.

Yes, it would be pricey. The other issue is getting it to match your 8.8' pattern. If your 8.8 is already set up/in your Jeep, it should not be hard to sell. I would not dump money in a LP D44 when significantly stronger axles with better features are available. If you want to keep the 8.8, bling-out the D30 (because even with an 8.8, the D30 is still the weak link of the vehicle).

There's no way that Jeepfreak's setup could even be mistake for "stockish width" :finger:, as the remaining inches of the H1 width that aren't backspacing pile right on top of his axle WMS that was already substantially wider than stock, but the H1 or H2 rims are great ways to minimize the impact of uncut axles - especially since such axle will look much more "in proportion" when the vehicle gets that tall. Running the 78-79 axles just as they are and buying wheels is the less expensive & more practical route for a YJ.

 

[Jeepaholic]

There's no way that Jeepfreak's setup could even be mistake for "stockish width" :finger:

Hmmmm;

Looks pretty dang close to me :finger::finger::finger::finger::finger:

 

[PavementPounder]

Looks pretty dang close to me :finger::finger::finger::finger::finger:

Yeah? Well that's because you're crosseyed or something. :sonicjay:

 

[PavementPounder]

Oh, BTW....

people who change their names, or make new ones, are douchebags

:teehee:

 

[Jeepaholic]

Oh, BTW....




:teehee:

Enjoy the infraction :thumb:

You should be nicer to people that actually put up with you :finger:

 

[PavementPounder]

Enjoy the infraction :thumb:

You should be nicer to people that actually put up with you :finger:

roadhouse :sonicjay:


I've been going easy on reporting posts. Ask Sandals. :finger: