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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I'm accelerating, or braking, my jeep will go in a straight line. But when I accelerate up to the speed limit (normall 55mph) and I let off the gas, so I'm coasting, or just a little bit of power from the engine to keep me at the speed, the jeep wanders all over. If I'm driving up a big hill, I will have perfect control, drives straight, no wander. As soon as I start going down the hill, where I don't need any power, or if I'm coasting to a stop light, it takes A LOT of energy to keep it between the lines. It tends to go left.


RE YJ SOA 2" lift springs up front (in a SOA setup)
high steer
four link rear/xjcoils/14" shocks
 

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if this is a serious question then I suppose you should be looking at front end geometry. if this is a serious deal then the axle sounds like its loosing caster when you shift the weight forward. you may not have enough initial caster to set the axle up, you may need to shim the leafs to rotate the housing back a little.
 

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Make sure all the jam nuts and link bolts on your rear suspension are tight. Check and make sure your front u-bolts and front shackles are tight.

Check your lug nuts.

Jack up your front axle and grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and try and feel for play. Do the same with the rear axle/wheels.

Take it for a drive and feel the front and rear calipers... if one feels hotter than the other side you may have a caliper acting up.

Feel the hubs also, if there is a problem with the bearings, or their pre-load one will feel hotter than the other.

Measure from the front spring main eye bolt to the front of the rear axle shaft tube on both sides. It should be exactly the same.
 

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It's your butt plug. Take that out, and all will be fine, also I am sure it would have helped to stop by ******'s house today, thayt would have solved all of your problems. Seriously.
 

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I was looking at the pics you attached in the hi-steer thread. Were those front perches welded on in order to rotate the diff and set pinion angle? Were the knuckle yokes rotated back after it was done?

The reason I ask is that the arm coming off the knuckle appears to be pointed downward a decent amount, but its hard to say how high and at what angle you are holding the camera. I'm wondering if bad caster is contributing to your wandering problem.
 

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For a quick estimate, stick your head in the fender and look straight down at the top ball joint. If the upper ball joint is close to being directly over the lower, its probably worth checking more closely and measuring the angles. The upper joint should sit behind the lower.

When you come out of turns, does the steering return to near-center rather easily on its own or is it slow and you have to turn it back?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For a quick estimate, stick your head in the fender and look straight down at the top ball joint. If the upper ball joint is close to being directly over the lower, its probably worth checking more closely and measuring the angles. The upper joint should sit behind the lower.

When you come out of turns, does the steering return to near-center rather easily on its own or is it slow and you have to turn it back?
It straightens itself out.

I'll have to do that. I need to figure something out before I go to the badlands the 3rd of nexct month :sonicjay:
 

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If the caster is less than desired, it would be more like "fine-tuning" if you were to correct it. I wouldn't bother with it for that trip, as its a lot of work to grind/reweld the knuckle yokes. Worn TRE's are far greater cause of instability and it'll probably handle much better after you fix it.
 

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It sounds like you have the steering geometry under control. If nothing seems to help, Detroit Lockers can be a little squirrelly in a SWB vehicle. I had a set in an older CJ5, when I coasted it went to the right, or wandered around. It made for an interesting ride.. :sonicjay:
 
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