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Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'll be adding pictures as I can. But from the fisrt one I linked, It appears I need to do some Major resizing to make them less obnoxious.

There won't be many as I hadn't originally planned on doing a thread, and the major hunk of my build took place of 5 very long days without time to take pictures.

The Start.
2008 JK Unlimited Rubicon.
When I purchased it the previous owner had installed a 1" Body lift and was running 33x10.50 Trail Grappler MT's wrapped around KMC XD Series 2 Wheels. Stock spare tire and wheel though, blech

Came with the Dual Top package, Hard Top and Sunrider Softtop, unfortunately had one torn up window, but easily remedied.

80K miles, ran good, no leaks, a few little rust spots on the body, but nothing but a little surface rust.

Unfortunately the First thing done wasn't a Mod, but was a repair. Radiator had a leak after the second week of owning it.
I ordered a Mishimoto Aluminum Replacement DON'T DO THIS!!!!!
Thinking it had a lifetime warranty and should be a good buy.
Unfortunately last week, a meer year and a half after purchase it failed to the point of needing replacement while I was up at silver lake (It had a slow leak that I knew would need to be dealt with that turned bigger) and am now battling them to honor their warranty.
When Pulled i saw leaks (between the end tanks and fins) in 4 different places.

Since I was doing the Radiator I took the opportunity to install an Aux trans cooler and oil cooler. Both of those were also Mishimoto, and so far have been solid.

Next to Address were the crappy stock headlights. I went with Trucklite Led's and couldn't be happier with them.

Also at that time I had noticed on the highway the hood bouncing up and down A LOT which i found to be a common issue.
I ordered the daystar? straps and installed them. They hold it way tighter and hasn't been an issue since.

It was also getting colder, and having been used to my Grand Cherokees and heated seats was already tired of having a cold bum.

After looking at options etc I ordered a set of Wet Okole seat coves with the carbon fiber heating pads installed.
I got them in Red and Black, heating pads, lumbar support and sunglass pockets.
Been super happy with this purchase, easily one of the best things I did.
Covered up the stock Grey fabric seats and gave the Jeep a custom look, and are hella functional.


Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Bumpers And Skids etc

Next up I knew I wanted to upgrade bumpers and armor.

I decided to go with JCR, I liked the look and that I knew the guys from the boards etc.

Went with a Crusader front and Vanguard rear, and full skid package.
Install was straight forward except the engine skid. Installing the upper brackets sucked balls.
I also had went and purchased the trans crossmember and installed that when I did the armor.

Since I would have had to relocate the stock fog lights anyway, I went ahead and purchased the LED ones JCR sells for both the front and Rear bumpers. Been happy with them. Nice and bright, and good solid lights.

While doing the bumpers I also installed a winch. I went with one of the Badlands 12,000 pound winchs. I put a 7/16" Fireline synthetic line on it.
So far it's been solid, only used it a few times, but has been a good purchase.
Instead of a hook I went with a Factor 55 Prolink (Red Anodized of Course)
And to bling it out a little, I threw on some Red Shackles.
And a Red Anodized Hawse Fairlead


Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Little Doo Dads

I bought a few things for it as well, a Mopar recovery kit that came in a Red Jeep Bag (Bling factor) and had gloves, shackles, tree Protector and Recovery Strap. And I bought a Warn Split Sheave as well to throw in there.

Also basic stuff, Crescent Wrench, flashlight, first aid kit, Utility Knife.
I also bought a small "Jeep JK Toolkit" Came with a small ratchet and a few torx and allen heads for removing the top and door bolts etc. This has been a great little $15 purchase.

Also After looking into getting some more power out of the turd of a drivetrain, I bought a Superchips Trail Tuner. Good purchase, lots of options. Not sure I got more power, but being able to adjust shift points, change throttle response etc has been nice.

Also started to notice an exhaust leak, and upon inspection, hole in muffler. I went with MBRP Cat back with the muffler relocate to move it from being transverse mounted and exit on the drivers side instead of passenger now. Linky

Easy install, Throatier sound, Still happy

It was like this until it started to get warm and my thoughts turned to the soft top and putting stuff where it needed to be.
I ended up buying the besttop Locking underseat storage box's. While smaller than I'd like, they hold a decent amount of stuff. I have a good selection of tools, fuses etc that I may need stored in those things.

Other little thing, got Daystar shackle islolaters for the shackles F+R to stop any paint chipping and quiet them down some.

Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Tops And Stuff

Warm Weather, soft top time etc.

Softtop that came with it had a ripped up window. I purchased a replacement tinted window set for like $150.
Unfortunately I wasn't too familiar with JK's before I owned this one and hadn't realized it was missing a couple of the door surrounds. In the end I should have just purchased a new damn Top, but oh well.

Got that, then Turned to getting the doors off.
Holy fuckballs I don't think the previous owner ever took them, it was a chore and some spraying the hinges with PB blaster and pulling up while moving them. but they finally came off.

I bought some mirrors (Olympic Safari Mirrors) But they were one's that bolted into the hinge holes. I don't recommend that kind. Even super tightened down that vibrate a lot, I replaced them this year with windshield mounted ones.

Also because i like the doors off, and JCR had just started selling them I bought a pair of their foot pegs. Solid purchase.

Also soon after bought a besttop Trail cover Linky as It was one of the few that seemed to be waterproof and full covered the door openings.

I used the trail cover 85% of the summer, Top was off and in the garage most of the time, well worth the money.

Also at this time I figured I should wire in the lights in the rear bumper and the 6" Round Lights I added to the front.
I went with a Daystar A-Pillar switch pod. Linky Worked well. I used 6 conductor trailer cable to get power and the signal to and from the switched, and used weatherpack 6 conductor plugs to be able to easily unplug if needed.

To get power to everything I had ordered a 5 Circuit Fused relay box that I mounted under the hood. Sealed and was nicely wired.

Also for some reason I decided I needed dual batteries so put in a dual battery tray. Yeah, over a year later, still only 1 battery.

Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)

Was planning a trip to Silver lake with the Kids, so I may have decided I needed some things.

I got some red Rollbar Grab handles, Some red handles that bolt in at the top of the A-Pillar.

Also picked up a Viar 450P Compressor to air back up, and staun deflators to air down.

And for some bling, I bought Some Red Aluminum Door handle inserts Here Still happy with the look.
Also Drake Offroad shifters for both the Trans and t-case. Sleek and black and have a MT Tread tire wrapped around them.


Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The Aftermath!!!

So on the way home from the SL trip I head a nasty noise in the front end.
After pulling over at a rest stop I found a front U-joint flopping around in a wallowed out Axle shaft yoke. 200 miles from home and lacking tools to pull it, I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best.

Made it home without any more damage (Stub shaft was shot) So after this I went and ordered parts to install (Which sat for a year before they got put in more on those in a bit)

I pulled the axle shaft and dealt with it until i could get it installed.

Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)

So I didn't really do much until a few weeks ago, when I did a whole lot.

Had 2 days to do a few things July 13+14, and then the rest was completed July 19 to morning of 22nd.
Most of the threads below are the run down.

I'd been itching for flat fenders, so i could fit some taller rubber without a lift. After going back and forth I kept coming back to Metal Cloaks Overland series. And when they had free Shipping over Memorial day I bit the Bullet and bought a front and rear set.

I bought a Rivnut installer tool, and even using that I had 2 that ended up spinning on me, I must not have had them in there square to the sheet metal is my guess. One I was able to Salvage, the other I had to cut the bolt off, oh well.

To pair with these I bought ACE Engineering vented inner Fenders. Love the look of these.

Since I had to remove the Stock Rubicon Rock Rails to install the front fenders I took the time to flap wheel all the rust and loose paint off, and then repainted with Rustoleum Black Hammered Spray Paint. Look way Better Now

old Fenders (all those box's are the new fenders and other Jeep parts)

Fenders Off


Once the new fenders were on. I trimmed the little bit around the rear fenders that stuck out still with a cutoff wheel on the grinder.
At the front of the rear fenders there is a seam and hump of sorts that I beat flat with a 5lb hammer to give me as much clearance as possible.

After that I cleaned up the rear fender wells and wiped them down with Acetone. Then I gave something I saw on the shelf at Menards a Try.
Rustoleum Truck Bed Coating. I figured why not.

I did I think 5 thin coats of it. Once dry it feels nice and solid, slight texture, prefect for the inner fender wells.

I don't think I'd coat a truck bed with it, but for this application and similar I think it's a great option.

Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Front End Work

Also, we had a trip planned for Silver lake in the works, So it became time to fix what I broke on the last trip...... and then some.

So, since I had killed a U-joint upfront I read up on the JK's a good bit and decided I needed to beef up before putting in a new shaft.

I decided on Putting in some inner axle sleeves, which aren't really meant to be put in in a non-new vehicle I Believe.

I had already pulled the shafts and Carrier and inner seals and used a toilet brush and copious amounts of brake clean to try and clean the inside of the axle tube. Couldn't get the sleeves to slide in, even after sticking them in the freezer to shrink them a little.
After getting a bright flashlight I saw more rust areas in there that were causing huge issues. After trying a bunch of different things for a few hours, a trip to the Hardware store to buy all sorts of sanding drums, grinding tools etc, I found the perfect thing that solved the issue in both sides in about 15 minutes.
The Inner dimensions of The tubes is just a hair over 2" So i bought 3 of These (All they had) along with a Hex shanked drill chuck.

These damned things were perfect. Small learning curve, had to have it aligned almost perfectly square or it would catch. That coupled with an 18 volt drill, some 12" Hex Extensions and some Liquidwrench to not let it get too hot it cleaned the insides up awesomely.

So, once they fit in there I had to drill a bunch of 1/2" holes in the axle Tube (Ass puckering time) and then once I slid the nice and cold Sleeves right in the tube, I welded the end at the knuckle, and the plug welded it in at all the holes.

After this, I also had an EVO Truss TRUSS LINK to Weld on.

Holy crap that was a lot of time spent welding, and having to alternate sides, let cool, preheat the cast etc. After it was welded on (Not the prettiest welds in all the places since I don't weld all the time, but beating some of them with a hammer it was good and stuck on there) I painted it black.

When Welding on an axle as much as when installing a Truss or sleeves, you DO NOT want the weight of the vehicle to be sitting on that axle. The heating etc has the potential to warp the axle.
My method for this (As well as some other suspension work) since I don't have my lift installed yet.
I take my Engine hoist and hook it up to the frame. In my case for both front and rear I was able to take a roundsling around the frame right behind the bumper and it was a solid mounting point.
I then lifted the Jeep up good and high and shoved some jack stands under the axle to Support that.
This Method helps 2 fold I feel.
1 - It keeps the vehicle weight off of the axle.
2 - By maxing out the suspension (I had shocks and Swaybar Disconnected as well) it gives you more clearance / height between the axle and everything stuffed above it.

I had Inner C gussets to weld in as well, but upon looking closer the Previous owner already had done so.

At this point it was time to put everything back together.

New Dana inner Axle seals went it
Then the Carrier.
I then used a Lubelocker Gasket and bolted on my Freshly Red Painted Riddler Cast Diff cover.

Time to move out to the ends. I had Teraflex Balljoints to put in (gotta be good right) Unfortunately since the Lower Ball joints sit higher than stock they wouldn't work with my Axle shafts.

A trip to Napa for Stock Spicer Ball joints, knuckle back on, and Slid in my nice new pretty RCV Axle Shafts. Damn these things are beefy. A little bit of extra work to get the boot on the CV joint, but after that awesomeness.

I put on new Spicer Wheel bearings/hubs.
This is when I found out that the RCV Shafts didn't come with new spindle nuts, and that Napa doesn't carry them WTF?
Had to go to 2 different Autozones (After the Jeep was Driving) since the stores only stock one each, again WTF?????

Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Front Brakes and Bits

With the front end pulled apart I also took the Time to install a Teraflex Leveling kit to help bring the front back up after bumper and winch.

I also decided to go to Rancho RS9000XL shocks all the way around. So far so good. Being able to dial up the stiffness for towing is great, and down for offroad and city driving has so far been great.

It's a bit difficult to turn them by hand though, I've been using a tiny pair of channelocks to grab the know, just that little extra leverage has been enough.

And since Larger tires were in the works I turned my attention to brakes.
I hadn't been happy with how the Jeep stopped since I had it so i began research.

The main option out there is the Teraflex big brake kit, but with new calipers (110K miles, at that point I don't trust reseating the calipers without a failure soon after from experience) They run about $800.

After Some reading on different forums there was another option. Some export and Military JK's ship with Larger rotors, a little over and inch bigger. Doesn't sound like a lot, but when talking rotational mass and center of rotation etc can make big difference. I was able to order the parts numbers below to make this happen. One of the places I went to was hesitant since they are export parts, I just told them I had swapped on export knuckles and needed the brakes.
The caliper piston is the same size as stock but mounting ears are a little different, and obviously the mounting bracket is a bit different from stock.

I loaded the calipers with Hawk Pads and after the week of driving They stop the jeep on 37's better than the previous brakes were doing 33's.

I also installed Extended Stainless steel Brake Lines at the time.

This is know as the "BR6 Heavy Duty Brakes" The parts I used were
68040177AA - 13.25" Rotor
68044865AA - Caliper Adaptor
68044863AA - RH Caliper
68044862AA - LH Caliper

And stock Fitment pads.
I google searched the part numbers for best prices.

There is also supposedly an upgraded Booster and Master Cylinder as well. I really didn't want to swap those so did without, and I have no complaints. I believe the MC has a larger bore, so I may eventually.

68045998AB - Master Cyl
68045999AB - Booster

To finish up the front I put on a Rancho RS7000 Steering stabilizer.

I figured I may as well do what I can while doing everything.
I installed RockKRawler Adjustable lower control arms, and then a JKS Adjustable Trackbar.

Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Rear Axle

Next attention went to the back of the Jeep.

I installed a JCR Rear Axle truss First.

Something I thought of when getting ready to do all the welding on the axle and needing to clean it etc. I took rags and some cleaner and got all the dirt and grease off, and the on the tubes themselves I took some wide emory screen (Plumbing Section, I like the Wide "Blue Monster" Stuff) and just like cleaning copper pipes before soldering, I wrapped a length around and pulled back and forth to clean any rust etc and get bare metal. The process went fairly quick this way, and I wasn't throwing sparks and trying to get a grinder in odd places.

Then out there went the other half of the Teraflex Leveling Kit, Some more RanchoRS9000 Shocks. And then another Cast Riddler Diff cover painted Bling Red.

With the cover off I cleaned out the inside of the pig and when putting the new cover on again went with a lube locker gasket.
Front and Rear I filled with Lucas Synthetic Gear Oil.

I didn't touch the shafts out back because the previous owner had put in G2 Axle shafts already.
At some point I'll probably get new and keep those as spares.

For brakes in the back, since I upgraded the front I did a little to the back. I found Powerstop Slotted and drilled rotors and new calipers on sale so I went with those, loaded with Hawk pads like I did on the front.
Instead of replacing the line I just used Teraflex Brake line extension brackets to drop the lines a little.

With the leveling kit installed The trackbar was about 1" off from making it, so I went with a JKS Adjustable trackbar for the rear also.

Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
New Shoes

Time for new Tires.

I went with 37x12.50 Mastercraft Courser MT
Granted I've only had a week with them, but was quite happy on road, on the dunes, and running muddy 2 tracks in the forest.

And bought another Wheel to match what was on it.

I have a set of used Inner airlocks waiting to go in, but the way the wheels are constructed i'm not sure I can get the second valve stem in. When I have a chance i'm going to break my spare down and see. I want to get at least a manual tire changer first to make the process easier though then i'll work on that.

Everything works and fits well, only rub was on the frame/ lower control arm at full lock. Turned out the steering stops a touch and nota problem anymore.

So that's 37x12.50 with Flat fenders, 1" Body Lift, and 1" Leveling Kit.

Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Tailgate And Spare Tire

I now needed a way to carry the spare.

Looking back I should have just spent the $500 ish on a whole tire carrier assembly, but for now I'm fine with what I did.

The JK Tailgates are notorious for breaking the spot welds inside the Tailgate, and for the hinges to not carry the weight well, especially with larger than stock spares.

For first I put on MORyde Heavy Duty Tailgate Hinges. BEEFY and feel quite solid, Happy with them

Then to Beef up the Tire Carrier. I started with Off Camber Fabrications Spare tire Reinforcement Brackets for the inside.
I then bought one of the thicker Spare tire delete covers I could find to install on the outside underneath the Smittybilt Oversized Spare Tire carrier I went with. The install on all of this was fairly straight forward, no real surprises.

Also out back I put on a Ridded Ridge Hi-Lift Jack Mount. Because of the MORyde hinges I had to change up the hardware a Little bit.
I had to get longer bolts (I went with a Socket Head bolts) and then took some Aluminum Tubing just big enough for the bolts and cut them down to fit the depth of the hinge to back up the bracket.
I painted those black, and then used washers at each end when installing to avoid pulling/ crushing the bracket on install.

After that I put on a 48" Hi-lift Extreme Jack. On the first and only use the damn pins still stick thought. I'll have to spray them with teflon or something.

A week beating on it at the dunes, and trails, no rattles, no loose anything. So far happy with the package. But still think I probably should have gone with an even more upgraded package back there.


Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
A Couple Little Things I've been happy with.

I'd been thinking about a CO2 tank for a bit, Instantairsupply had a 4th of July sale so I got a 15# setup. I love it, all but the mounting bracket they ship for it, I went and ordered a Fire extinguisher mount i'm going to rivnut and bolt to the inner rear fenders.
I've seen empty 15# Tanks go for around $90-$100, I'll probably pick an extra one up before too long, because I can.

Also ordered some gear bags that mount to the rollbar (Can be seen in the post above) These things are great and hold a ton of stuff, and have pockets and pouch's on the outside to hold stuff. We ended up stuffing Sunblock, Bug spray, Extra sunglasses etc in the pouch's while the larger zippered compartments held towels, sweatshirts etc.

I got these from Amazon, looks like there are about a dozen that are the same all with different names and a little bit different prices.

In The Mole Straps I ended up strapping a Roll of Blue Shop towels on one side, and a beach blanket on the Other

Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Nice writeup Sandals! Some Dune pics would be a nice addition, but I'm guessing you are getting there as you continue to type and post.

@Lousypirate @shawn

Check back in another hour or so, still finishing up the list of all the mods etc.

I have a few dune pics, I think the wife took a bunch more as I was driving a lot of the time, Kids had a blast.

Fucking Zen as Shit
16,122 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Locker switches and Such

The Last bit of mods to happen was all wiring stuff. I'll get some pictures when I am home
again in a few Days.

Since I was going to tow a pop-up I wanted to wire in a Trailer brake controller. I already had it an an extra harness so it was just the matter of putting it in. I also needed to get some more wire into the cab for the next bit of stuff.

For the Brake Controller I grabbed some 12/3 SJOOW cable I ran this From the battery, Zip tied it to the Wire Harness that runs across the top of the Firewall.

When I got to the Drivers Side I went straight down the firewall next to the fender.

To get in the Cab for the A-pillar Pod I had ran high, I was able to snake it around the top of the hood and poke a hole high in the insulation at the top of the firewall.

This wouldn't fit, I was also running another piece or 16/6 trailer wire into the cab for other stuff.

I had some of these boots laying around

And the 12/3 and 16/6 fit in the largest hole nicely. With these boots you cut the boot off at the size you need then zip tie the end.

I pulled up the carpet on the drivers side, and found a spot behind the brake pedal, as far up and to the left I could easily drill, and get to both sides to run the wires to bring the wires into the cab.

With the 12/3 I only needed two of the conductors, a 30 amp Positive Run with a 30amp Circuit breaker inline, and I did a direct negative run from the battery, BUT Since my Jeep had the Factory tow package It had the brake trigger wire ran up and coiled by the battery so I used the third wire for that.

Once in the cab I ran the wires up to the kickout panel on the drivers side under the A-Pillar. This is where I made the connections to the Prodigy Harness. The last connection I needed to make was brake signal. This was easier than i thought it would be. Was a simple matter of rotating the brake trigger switch from under the dash out, and the splicing into the white wire with a Tan stripe on that switch.
Line it back up, roate the other way and done.
I used some stove bolts to mount the bracket for the controller to the plastic trim below and to the right of the steering wheel.

And of course after going through all of this and making sure it worked, the brake system on the popup (was bought used, this was the first trip out with it) didn't work, so oh well, there for the future.

What was that other run of 6 conductor wire for? Well, even though I have a rubicon model with factory lockers etc, the lockers only work when the computer sees certain conditions and disconnects them when those conditions are false.
It is fairly easy to make it so you can activate the lockers whenever you want, Just make sure you aren't a dumbass and use them on the highway or dry pavement!

So the Relays for the factory lockers are located right by the battery. All you need to do is trigger them like the vehicle does. It does this by switching ground to the relays.
The wiring for this was easy.
I mounted 3 Toggle switches to the dash to the far left of the steering wheel (Purpose of third will come later).
To one side of the switch all you need to do is run ground from inside dash (Plenty of easy access bolts to choose from), and then on the other side of the switch run it to the relay.

The relays are wired pretty tight in there. Lots of people had removed the battery etc to get to them. I found if I cut one of the factory zip ties holding the wiring loom the relays come off of I could pull that whole loom up and access what I needed to.

Each realy has 4 wires going to it from the wire harness (Front locker is front relay, Rear locker is rear relay) 3 of the wires are similiarly colored with one wire being different. The different one I believe was purple with different colored tracers for each locker.
All you need to do is splice into that purple wire with your switched ground.
Even though I HATE THEM, I originally used Scotch loc connectors for this, they failed after 5 minutes because they suck, and it's a small gauge wire. I ended up cutting the wire to each relay, wiring in a jumper wire to be able to pull the relays out easier and used crimp on butt connectors to attach the jump and switched ground from inside the cab.

BOOM! DONE! Can now activate the lockers whenever I want. All that happens is the locker lights in the dash flash the whole time. It does this because the computer sees the locker's are activated, but it's confused because according to it they shouldn't be. But thats it, all is good.

That third switch? ESP Override.
Yes there is a factory switch for this, guess what, even when it says it's off, it's not fully deactivated, even in 4 low, it still retains some function.
your JK ever bog down offroad at an oddtime when you thought it shouldn't have? This was the culprit.

So the Third switch Acts to break the signal connection for this system. The way I did mine (And there are many other ways, but this was dead simple) The switch needs to be in the ON position for most regular driving, and off when you want ESP Off.

The main wire harness for the Jeep, runs right behind the trim panel at the drivers feet. I didn't even need to undo anything to get to this. Some of the connections were tight to make, but wasn't bad.

So locate the Main Wire Harness and pull it out a little.
Carefully using a knife (I used a utility knofe with fresh blade) cut off some of the tape that is wrapped around the harness. You don't have to do a lot, jut enough so you access what you need to access and get connectors on there.
I personally used butt connectors with heat shrink wrapped around them (The blue ones that come with the heat shrink pre-installed).

You need to locate the Purple wire with a light blue Stripe. MAKE SURE IT'S THE LIGHT BLUE. there is also a purple wire with dark blue stripe kicking around in there.
Once you have that wire Cut it!
You then need to effectively use that switch to complete the circuit. I had some Trailer wire sitting around. The kind that is 4 conductors with the insulation fused together.
I pulled two of those conductors off to use to run to the switch. I simply wired the end of each one to the switch, than I ran those inside the under dash trim, Zip tied it to the metal support in there over to the wire harness. When there I attached one to one end of the Purple/Lt Blue wire and one to the other end of the Purple/Lt Blue Wire.
Now when the switch is on it works as normal.
Flip that switch off, Dash lights up light a christmas Tree lol
ABS Light on, Traction control off warning light, ESP Warning light etc. But this is what you want, turn all that crap off.

NOW AS A NOTE: Simply flipping the switch back on DOES NOT undo what you just did.
For you to reactivate all of that stuff before you shut the jeep off flip the switch back on.
Now when you start it up again I had mixed results.
Everytime upon restart the ABS light was off.
Randomly the Traction off skid marks, and other traction warning light would be on. Pressing the Factory ESP OFF switch twice would clear one of those.
However, pretty solidly, upon 2 restarts of the switch being back on all the errors were cleared.
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