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Weekend Warrior
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893 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So here's my backstory.
i've been running my 87 Comanche for a while now on 36" Iroks. Love it, it loves me back. 4.56 gears, trussed Dana 30 up front, Ford 8.8 rear, axle tubes fully welded, grizzly locker on stock 31 spline shafts.

Now with my current situation...

I'm already swapping my front axle to a Dana 60 (5.13 gears, chromoly shafts, grizzly locker, truss) I already also have my new set of tires and rims (37" Iroks, 8x6.5 rims). I don't have this axle ready to bolt in yet but i'm eager to enjoy its capabilities though over my Dana 30.

And now for desicions...

What to do about/with the rear 8.8 axle??
How well will the axle hold up to 5.13 gears and 37's?
I do plan to truss the rear axle when i re-gear it along with a full re-build and prolly some shiny new chromoly shafts.

BUT...

my only plan thus far for the different bolt pattern is to run a 2-piece spacer/adapter...
View attachment 174937

Advice, opinions, tell me what you guys think
 

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Life=Short. Jeeps=Cool
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4,137 Posts
Hmmm why not just pick up a fourteen bolt axle and put the money into that? Seems like it's a better long term investment and the money you'd save on Chromoly shafts can go towards a shave kit and your truss.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 

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Direct Drive FTW
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2,461 Posts
Full float 14 rear

Stronger then a stock 60, cheap, easy to find.
Because they are all the above there is no need for any special shafts. Run the shafts till they break and pull/slide in a new one.

Take a inch off the pig, shove in the gears, slap some caddy calipers on, truss for the heck of it and run it until your ready for a new rig.
 

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Weekend Warrior
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893 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can anyone link me a write up w/ part numbers and all kinds of other good info for a 14bolt build up with disc brakes??

Its been suggested to me before, i had thought about building a D60 rear but simplicity and cheap are always an attention getter.

Thanks for the advice so far guys
 

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Registered
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3,045 Posts
Why not a 60 rear?

because they are weak and barely an upgrade over the 8.8 unless it's built. if you're lightly wheelin it's fine, but they don't hold up well to abuse (seen it many times)


do a 14 bolt. sell the 8.8, buy a 14 bolt and never look back

jmo
 

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circling the drain
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35,863 Posts
37 radial iroks for a long time ran smaller than the 36 bias ply iroks, (not sure on bias to bias comparison, but regardless they are not much different in size)

Just run the 8.8 until you find a need to upgrade the rear. Wheel adapters are far cheaper than any bolt in axle swap, or any axle swap that requires fabrication, or different parts, or, whatever.
 

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Premium Member
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22,634 Posts
But it's more then just adapters, he's Planing on regearing, reseal/bearing, and trussing the 8.8

So only benefit to keeping 8.8 vs changing is spring mounts and shock mounts, driveshaft.
 

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Weekend Warrior
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893 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well i do already have the new gears and install kit. I'd just want to throw in chromoly shafts and truss for piece of mind. I'm more concerned with how the axle will hold up with the higher gears. Its only a 4.0 motor but i do run the vehicle pretty hard. Just never had an issue with the rear axle and id like to keep it that way.

Im kinda of starting to side with continuing the plan with the 8.8 to keep me wheeling and while i wont be replacing d30 shafts and parts after the d60 goes in front i could prolly save and build the 14b in the mean time.

I appreciate the input from everyone and if there's more input out there keep it coming
 

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Premium Member
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4,992 Posts
Sell your built 8.8 for $500
Buy $100 14 bolt and $150-200 gears
Weld it
$200 is bolt on disc brakes and perches
Sell 5.13 8.8 gears
Profit
 

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Premium Member
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22,634 Posts
I ran an 8.8 for a few years with 36 and 38s. Ran a doubler for a bit in that time. My 8.8 w/5.13s and welded carrier never gave me any issues.
 

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Flex Is OverRated
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2,767 Posts
i agree with selling the 8.8 stuff and going with a full size axle from the get go.....either a 14 bolt or a Sterling 10.25/10.5. I have a sterling in my rig and it's been great and it's less of a anchor than the 14 bolt.
 

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Premium Member
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4,992 Posts
Sell your built 8.8 for $500
Buy $100 14 bolt and $150-200 gears
Weld it
$200 is bolt on disc brakes and perches
Sell 5.13 8.8 gears
Profit

Main reason I say this is 1 width
2 if you ever go with bigger tires
3 it's the same money or less
4how much are those fancy wheel adapters?
5 it's only leaf sprung so it's not a ton of work
I wouldn't see a strength issue with the 8.8
I would run a stock 44 over a stock 60 because of shaft size and if you are gonna buy 35spline 60 shafts you could of just started with a 14 bolt and been stronger for less
 

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Weekend Warrior
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893 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Any real preferences of 14 bolt over a dana 70?

My d60 front axle is about 64" wms. What would i find a similar width 14b underneath?
 

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Premium Member
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4,992 Posts
Any real preferences of 14 bolt over a dana 70?



My d60 front axle is about 64" wms. What would i find a similar width 14b underneath?

14 bolt is stronger
 

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Direct Drive FTW
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2,461 Posts
Any real preferences of 14 bolt over a dana 70?
You can find a full float dually(63") 14 bolt almost anywhere for around $400.
Parts are more widely available.


The only benefit that the Dana 70 has over a 10.5 is the deeper gearing available. But, you can remedy those gearing woes easily with a 11.5 14 bolt.

The 11.5 falls between a Dana70 and a HD70 strength wise.


If you want to compare a 60 to a 14 bolt look at what happens when someone runs them up front. 14 bolt survives 60 tears it self apart. Just take a look at the stock axle shaft diameter of a 60 next to a 14 bolt.


A 10.5 14 bolt can be found easily with factory 4.56 gearing. The dana 70 or 11.5 popular ratios are around 4.10. If you decide to build a 14 bolt front later on from a rear axle the cost and time of gearing such a axle will be saved. Popular rear axle 14 bolt shafts can be shortened and welded for low dollar replacement parts. If built right you can pull these shafts right on the trail.

If you decide later on to go with a 4.56 14 bolt front and manage to tear it up. You will be able to get another 4.56 10.5 center in there within a week. This does not factor in lockers of course. But, the time and cash saved using easy to find parts instead of building a axle out of specialty parts is worth it to some.
 
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