Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest banner

1 - 20 of 70 Posts

·
F-U-CANCER!!!
Joined
·
5,388 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For about a year I have been gathering parts etc.. to re-start this project = Yup, rig build. - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest.

I hope to finish it this time :blah:.
Anyways, Scott was a good guy to deal with and I hope he and everyone else here will help me keep from screwing this up. I am working on pictures and know I need to get them to really get good input.

I currently have:
Mounted the 5.3, 4L60E, NP231 in the frame.
Installed 35" BFG M/T's.
Removed the tub.

EDIT: Some of the details etc..

rear axle =
79ish 9", 31 spline, 65.5" wide, 5/5.5 bp 5.13 gears, full spool (going to a detroit some day Hopefully))
CJ-7 front rotors and GM S-10 F. calipers
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=106874&highlight=
front axle =
HP 44, drivers drop, all new bearings and seals, Yukon shafts, Longfield joints, 5.13 gears, welded carrier, new calipers, aluminum tierod, 5/5.5 outters, brand new Warn lockouts.
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=105028&highlight=

__________
Biggest problems to work through right now are suspension questions. The rear 4-link needs to be moved forward aprox. 4-5" to allow an under frame fuel tank. I can not have the tank in the tub (to much other stuff I need to carry in there).

Next step = move rear axle forward.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
629 Posts
The rear 4-link needs to be moved forward aprox. 4-5" to allow an under frame fuel tank. I can not have the tank in the tub (to much other stuff I need to carry in there).

have you checked out some different tank shapes or configs ? maybe splitting the difference and moving it up just enough to clear - eg. a partial hump in the tub so you still have space for your junk

just thinking . . . . it looks good the way it sits :thumb:
 

·
F-U-CANCER!!!
Joined
·
5,388 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Make the calculator the current window with what you want captured visible on the screen, press Alt+Print Scrn. Open up MS Paint and press Ctrl+V. Save as a .jpg or your favorite suffix and then attach as an image here.
Well, I tried doing it above, but the image sucks??? I will try againg tomorow.


Also, I know about modifying the fuel skid and tank. I will have to do that as well. Right now the rear is stretched ~ 7" and I hope to keep it stretched ~ 3"????

Thanks for the comments.
 

·
F-U-CANCER!!!
Joined
·
5,388 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I "think" this is better? I have shown where it is now and aprox. where it would be if I just shortened all of the links 4".

Hope to cut them down this weekend and would greatly appreciate any input I could get before hand.

Thanks again
 

·
F-U-CANCER!!!
Joined
·
5,388 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I'd try to get a couple more inches of vertical frame seperation by moving the upper link frame mounts up if it's possible. $0.02
Thanks!!!! It was in the lowest hole so this is ~ where it would be if I went to the top hole. Thanks ALOT for your time and input :beer:.




lower portion =
 

·
I do vinyl stickers
Joined
·
654 Posts
i had the same problem with my jeep. i cut a hole in my floor and put the tank half way through, the pig dosent even come close to hitting it, i built a small box around it to enclose it. the back seat still fits in its stock location.and i could still put stuff behind the seat.
 

·
F-U-CANCER!!!
Joined
·
5,388 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Chopped 4" from each of the rear links, re-tapped etc.. Now the tank and skid plate will fit with some "minor" modification. I was unfortunately not willing to cut the inside of the tub and would rather work around it.

Next = Try to allign it a little and start working on driveshafts, exhaust, fuel & brake lines etc.... Also need to do bump stops, spring retainers and limiting straps. Might only need limiting straps in the front?

Will try to get pictures soon. Exhaust is going to be tight. Not alot of spare time to work on it though.
 
1 - 20 of 70 Posts
Top