What has me kind of spooked about this.
The Haynes says that when I go torque it back -
If the maximum torque is reached before the preload figure is obtained, the bearing spacer must be replaced by a repair shop.
I was wondering if anyone had actually done this before, and had any advice.
If you are worried about it, you could take it to a shop and it probably wouldn't cost too much. As mentioned above, you could count the threads on the pinion gear before you take the yoke off to get a reference point when you put it back together. Breaking the pinion nut loose can be tough sometimes too.
a little tip that i've used and learned from several mechanics. use some whiteout and mark the nut to pinion shaft location with a line coming straight back. then count the threads. then when you go to put it back on, slowly turn it down until the threads count back up, and your mark on the pinion shaft and the nut should be lined up again. at that point try to go up to a 1/4turn past. done. it's not the right way to do it, but honestly that's what most mechanics do, so if you're going to pay them to "not do it right", you might as well do it yourself. on the other hand, if the diff fails shortly after them working on it, then you can also blame them.
Thank you for the advice and suggestions.
I called Ring and Pinion in Clinton Twp. today, they quoted $90 over the phone.
If they do it "the right way" for $90 I just might have them do it.
I probably am over thinking this, I usually do.
Just want to do it the correct way once, and call it a day.
If I end up doing this myself, I will try and get some pics and do a post on how it all went.
Just remember that the crush sleeve puts a tiny amount of preload on the pinion bearing...too much and you'll eat up pinion bearings. It is really an easy job to do yourself and if you use the tricks mentioned above you will be fine. I did my D35 pinion seal in my apartment parking lot in around 30 minutes and haven't had a problem in 10,000 miles.
Did my rear pinion seal a long time ago the 1/4 turn way. Mark where it is before u touch anything, and count threads. Once your done use a ratchet, not impact to run it back on to the thread you marked and go a 1/4 turn past. Too much and as mentioned above, ull crush the crush sleeve too much. I also used some good thread locker when reinstalling the nut. A tip when removing the seal: i used a flat blade screw driver and a hammer to crush the pinion's outer steel ring on all sides, then just pried it out. Came out pretty easy.
Ring and Pinion does good work. But it's like a 12 dollar seal. It's pretty hard to screw up. It takes like 200 foot pounds of pressure to crush that sleeve. I don't think you are going to do it by hand. The pre-load has already been set. Just do it once yourself and save 80 bucks! I don't think there is any way you will over tighten it. If worse comes to worse, it still leaks and then you take it to R&P and your out 12 bucks! If you have grooved your yoke, that may need to be replaced also.
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