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Gustafson
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The lack of traction seems to be a common complaint with the r4 tires. A coworker had them on his Kubota and tried using it to clear his driveway, said it kept slipping and sliding.
This mimics what I was going to say about the tires.

I know there is a weight difference between the old and new machine, but I think it's the tires more than anything. The R4 wont rip things to hell, but that being said, they aren't biting like the AG tires you had on the old tractor would. I would say get used to using the diff lock.
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
This mimics what I was going to say about the tires.

I know there is a weight difference between the old and new machine, but I think it's the tires more than anything. The R4 wont rip things to hell, but that being said, they aren't biting like the AG tires you had on the old tractor would. I would say get used to using the diff lock.
Part of me almost regrets not just going with the R14T tires for the increased tractions, but at the time It wasn't what I wanted. Still, every 01 model kubota I see that people have 9 times out of 10 has the R4 tires, so they can't be that bad. I'm hoping it's just the difference in tire; I would think the R4 will have better snow/ice traction than the R1. either way, If I have to use the diff lock more, that's why it's there. Plus If I do get stuck, I would think it wouldn't be as bad as getting stuck with R1s lol
 

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Gustafson
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10,133 Posts
Part of me almost regrets not just going with the R14T tires for the increased tractions, but at the time It wasn't what I wanted. Still, every 01 model kubota I see that people have 9 times out of 10 has the R4 tires, so they can't be that bad. I'm hoping it's just the difference in tire; I would think the R4 will have better snow/ice traction than the R1. either way, If I have to use the diff lock more, that's why it's there. Plus If I do get stuck, I would think it wouldn't be as bad as getting stuck with R1s lol
Hahaha, good point.
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Just turned 18 hours on the tractor; Haven't used it much over the winter; foresee getting the hours put in this summer.

Actually spent several hours on it grading our camp road with the box grader and I found something I do not like on it. The seat is very uncomfortable when sitting on it for a long period of of time. I never found the seat on the old L4150 to have that issue, never even noticed any issues. The 3901; I could feel a pressure point on my hind end about halfway into the task, and when I got done, it felt like I just sat on concrete for the past couple hours; plus, when I hit a bump, a couple times i've literally lifted off the seat enough to where the safety switch in the seat tries to shut the tractor off. (assume that can be adjusted with the seat suspension?)

Quick searching online says i'm not the only one to have similar issues with the lack of comfort in the seat. I don't see that Kubota has any readily available options, perhaps buy one for a B series? Couple people used the high back cordura fabric seat from TSC, which looks like a good seat; though they're not giving it away at $250.

Any suggestions or other options?
 

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Yooper In Training
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7,372 Posts
Just turned 18 hours on the tractor; Haven't used it much over the winter; foresee getting the hours put in this summer.

Actually spent several hours on it grading our camp road with the box grader and I found something I do not like on it. The seat is very uncomfortable when sitting on it for a long period of of time. I never found the seat on the old L4150 to have that issue, never even noticed any issues. The 3901; I could feel a pressure point on my hind end about halfway into the task, and when I got done, it felt like I just sat on concrete for the past couple hours; plus, when I hit a bump, a couple times i've literally lifted off the seat enough to where the safety switch in the seat tries to shut the tractor off. (assume that can be adjusted with the seat suspension?)

Quick searching online says i'm not the only one to have similar issues with the lack of comfort in the seat. I don't see that Kubota has any readily available options, perhaps buy one for a B series? Couple people used the high back cordura fabric seat from TSC, which looks like a good seat; though they're not giving it away at $250.

Any suggestions or other options?
I've been really happy so far with the seat that came on my LX2610. It's the premium B style. My back/butt are sometimes sensitive to crappy seats too and I've had zero complaints out of this so far. The armrest is nice too, although I keep the entry/exit side flipped up and find that I only lean on the loader control side.

Like you I've also questioned whether I made the right choice on the R4s or if I should have gone R14. Mine is for different reasons though; I've been mostly happy with traction but it's done some lawn damage when things are soft. On a machine this size though even turfs will tear stuff up when it's wet/soft. Gotta be realistic about my expectations. Feedback is still limited since the R14 is a newer tire, but everything I've seen people rave about them and most say it actually does slightly less lawn damage than the R4s. To me looks like it'd be due to the center stripe and the shallower overall tread. It is what it is though. I plan to groove these, primarily for better snow traction, but overall they do pretty damn well as it is.
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Finished up the first big project with the tractor. Got 120 yrds of gravel dumped on our camp road and I spread it and graded it. (Well, half the camp road). Loved, almost, every minute of using that tractor. Spent a total of about 10 hours spread out over several days.

Biggest takeaway, as said, was the seat is not the greatest and I really missed the cab that was on the old tractor. Going to be looking into something for the new one, even if just a roof. Also, i kinda want a grapple bucket, forks were just fine for moving the brush and trees I cut, but a grapple would have made the job easier. Not sure im gonna justify $2,000+ for something thats not really necessary though.

Other than that, very satisfied with the tractor still. Small things like the adjustable stops for the 3pt, meant i could find the perfect height to grade at, set the stop and not have to constantly pay attention to which number the 3pt is at. Maybe other brands have them, or can get aftermarket, but whatever just saying.

I really am going to buy a handle for the right side fender, especially with working a 3pt where i am contantly turned around watching it. I thought i would like to have cruise control, but I ended up not missing it at all. Foot never got stiff or got numb. Though some rubber matting on the foot wells would be really helpful, they still get slick even with the dimple holes. Upside to a higher end tractor

So list of things I want to do:

1) New seat
2) Fender handle
3) roof/cab?
4) hydrolic/hydrostat filter covers
5) floor mats on the foot wells

Lastly, had the first DPF burn. Went very simple and took about 10 minutes. Light came on, (only noticed cause the engine sound changed as i was watching the box blade), so all I had to do was run the engine up to full throttle, 10 min later the cycle was done, back down to 2k rpm, and that was it. Simple and quick.
 

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Yooper In Training
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Very nice. Looks like it got a good little workout.

I mowed for the first time with mine a couple days ago. The size wasn't as much of an issue as I expected. A wider deck(like the 72" I tried to get but the salesman mistakenly said isn't available for my tractor) would have been nice in some spots, but in others the 60" was already a tight squeeze. The deck itself, the swivel wheels, and the overall anti-scalping setup worked a lot better than my 54" JD445. Biggest difference/drawback on this machine was that I had to be pretty careful turning. Between the bigger, heavier machine and the more aggressive tires I had to be really careful about turning sharp. The machine itself will turn really sharp(and I haven't even tried the dual brake pedal setup) but it'll tear up the turf pretty bad when it does. I found myself taking wide 3 point turns much more than on the JD just to keep from tearing up the grass, not because it was too bulky. Still didn't take much, if any longer than I'm use to though.
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I've been really happy so far with the seat that came on my LX2610. It's the premium B style. My back/butt are sometimes sensitive to crappy seats too and I've had zero complaints out of this so far. The armrest is nice too, although I keep the entry/exit side flipped up and find that I only lean on the loader control side
How do you like that stump bucket? I was looking at purchasing one for the 'bota as I think ti would make popping stumps a little easier? I've done probably 30 stumps, but they're mostly been smaller spruce, maybe 4", biggest was a mostly rotted pine that was probably 16". The forks making popping the smaller stumps pretty easy as I just tear up the root system, the way a lot of the land is there a layer of hardpack sand, with about 12" of vegetation and roots that grow along it. Tear up one stump and you end up pulling a 6" round of roots and moss.



Update on the tractor, still working great. Haven't put as many hours on it as I though, just rolled the 50 hour mark. Did the 50 hour service on it, and everything looked good. Other than dropping a nut trying to get the hydraulic filter off ( I did not realize they painted it after the filter was put on it), it all looked good. Added a couple extra guards for filter protections; I ordered a hydraulic filter and hydrostat filter guard from Specially Repairs, the Hydrostat is in a prime location to get torn off if you doing work in the woods with stick jumping up. Could have easily saved money and made my own, but oh well. They work well. I've probably done more work with this tractor than the old L4150

Also ended up ordering slide pin stabilizer bars to replace the stock turn buckle ones. The turn buckles are a pain in the ass, and never seem to stay tight. So, spend the $$ and bought the upgraded ones from a grand L series. Still dislike the seat as it still gets very uncomfortable after about 20 minutes. Waiting on the money fairy to come in to drop $300 on a better seat. I decided to replace the turn buckles as those were more usability related.

Links to the filter guards:

As I said, if I were to do it over, I would just make my own guards and save a lot of cash. Then spend that money towards a better seat lol
 

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Yooper In Training
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7,372 Posts
The stump bucket is great! I haven't had a ton of opportunity to use it but there's no comparison to this vs forks. Sounds like your soil is friendlier than my rock-hard clay, but still the stump bucket is awesome. Poor man's backhoe all the way.

I like all the guards and random add-ons that place offers. I fabbed up a few things for mine but haven't needed much. I'm about due for my 50 hour service, hopefully the filters don't fight me as much as yours did. I'm at about 46 hours, figure I'll do the service when I pull the mower off for the season this fall.
 

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I'll Direc your TV
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
The stump bucket is great! I haven't had a ton of opportunity to use it but there's no comparison to this vs forks. Sounds like your soil is friendlier than my rock-hard clay, but still the stump bucket is awesome. Poor man's backhoe all the way.

I like all the guards and random add-ons that place offers. I fabbed up a few things for mine but haven't needed much. I'm about due for my 50 hour service, hopefully the filters don't fight me as much as yours did. I'm at about 46 hours, figure I'll do the service when I pull the mower off for the season this fall.
Awesome! Looks like more seat money is going to be diverted again lol

After struggling with a filter strap wrench and feeling like I was going to rip the assembly off; I watched a video and learned that all you need is to use a razor blade and slice through the paint between the filter and the housing.....should have watched the whole video before I started lol; everything else came off just fine. I missed one grease point on the front of the axle though. Was not needed but I changed the fuel and air filter as well; figured what the hell, why not. I'm going to plan on changing those filters once a year regardless of hours.

I was bummed I could not find any T6 in 15w-40, everywhere was out. I ended up with just T4 regardless. The spec calls for either 10w-30 or 15w40, thought that was weird. Went with Rotella T4 cause it's good diesel oil; i'll be using T4 or T6 whichever I can get my hands on. Thought about going to traveler oil as that seems to be good as well; I use traveler Hydraulic fluid already.
 

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Yooper In Training
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7,372 Posts
Isn't Traveler just the TSC house brand? Which I'm sure is just someone else's rebranded stuff.
 

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Low Range Drifter
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8,549 Posts
Isn't Traveler just the TSC house brand? Which I'm sure is just someone else's rebranded stuff.
Yeah. Question is if it's consistent on who makes it, or if they just go low cost supplier.

I saw an interesting thing on Deboss garage. They were talking about oils, and his engine builder's take was that staying consistent with oil brand and blend was more important than what you use. His personal take was that engines that get whatever oil is on sale for an oil change are generally in worse shape than the engine that uses the same brand consistently over time. His take was that the additive differences and interactions between brands was the differentiator.

Watch if interested:

 

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I'll Direc your TV
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Yeah. Question is if it's consistent on who makes it, or if they just go low cost supplier.

I saw an interesting thing on Deboss garage. They were talking about oils, and his engine builder's take was that staying consistent with oil brand and blend was more important than what you use. His personal take was that engines that get whatever oil is on sale for an oil change are generally in worse shape than the engine that uses the same brand consistently over time. His take was that the additive differences and interactions between brands was the differentiator.

Watch if interested:

watched that same video; interesting opinion; but I got that it was mostly because people that use synthetic generally run it too long and it breaks down too much? Either way, I like synthetic oil and will continue to use it.

I've always ran rotella oil in my tractor(s) and will continue to do so more than likely
 

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Project Antitube
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1,052 Posts
As far as I can tell, as long as you run a higher quality oil with the appropriate or better API code, it doesn't matter, as long as you have reasonable oil change intervals and you get the oil hot enough to boil off any gasoline (160ish) or water in it (212ish). Ideally you find one that doesn't discolor/break down due to temperature and does a good job of keeping particles in suspension. I switch oils all the time, but my standby is various types of Mobil1. I even mix-n-match viscosity oils in the same product family. I used to buy Mobil1 5w30 by the drum, but now that half the world takes 0w20 I'm back to buying 5 quart containers and 6 packs.

I will use HDEO (Delvac, Rotella) in stuff I procured used for a few quick oil changes to clean them out. I usually rotate back and forth between them for four oil changes then switch to a decent commodity synthetic. Rotella and Delvac seem to have some kind of detergent in them that do a good job of cleaning out garbage grade oil deposits. The varnish will stay on but the floaties seem to flake off and everything seems to be fine.
 
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