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Johnny's GoatBuilt JHF buggy build

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214K views 993 replies 64 participants last post by  JohnnyJ  
#1 · (Edited)
At post 110 I changed my mind and decided I would build a buggy instead of the Wag. The Wag continues to wait for it's next build.

At post 187 I ordered up a GoatBuilt JHF chassis to hopefully speed this up. (edit: nope)

Current Build plan:
GoatBuilt JHF Chassis, 108" wheelbase, "jeep" hood and grille
2007 Ford F250 Dana 60, 5.38, Sparty locker, JHF high-steer
- narrowed 4" to use 78 F250 axleshaft on the long side, using factory 1550 shafts
1998 Chevy K3500 14-bolt, shaved, 5.38, Detroit, 1/2t chevy disc brakes
39" BFG Krawler Red labels on KMC Machete Beadlocks
2001 GMC Yukon XL 6.0L LQ4
  • Holley TerminatorX EFI
  • Champ oil pan (high-ish clearance, baffled, steel)
  • Dorman LS2 car intake and Warr cable throttle body
  • Holley fuel rails with late-model 6.0 truck injectors (EV6, E85 flow rates, 12613412)
  • Goatbuilt accessory brackets, TC pump on driver's side, alt on passenger
  • GM 706 heads
  • BTR Truck Norris cam
TH400 built by Tranny Tom, Reverse Manual with Winters/WOD shifter
Atlas transfer case, 3.0 low range
Fox 2.5 air shocks
PSC Full Hydro, 2.5x10" ram, TC-pump
Mastercraft cheap seats with Impact 5-point harnesses
Griffin 31x19 radiator, Derale 16927 shroud and twin fans
Goatbuilt fuel tank and factory fuel pump
Magnaflow muffler mpe-12649

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I bought my Wagoneer in 1997. It was my first 4x4 and I bought it so that me and my friends could go camping and have room for our gear since we all drove econoboxes. That fall I ended up moving to Germany for 18 months and it went into storage.

When I got back I rebuilt the AMC 360 with the help of a friend, and we did enough maintenance on the rest to get it on the road. Over the next few years it got a 4" lift and went from 31s and then 35s when I put a 3" body lift. We did some wheeling with it and eventually I put it on 33 Stampers from my old Wrangler.

In around 2005 it was parked due to lack of time and using any spare time on my Wrangler. A few years later we stole the drive train for the TREC Wagoneer, and it has sat since.

Over the summer I got out of racing, bought a RZR and drug this back in the shop. I'm thinking I want to get it back on the road and trails.

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#205 ·
I figure I'll check in with Goatbuilt on Monday. I know he was out at KOH last week, not sure how big of an operation it is. They charged my credit card, which they said they would do when they shipped. So I'm hoping it's either on the road, or about to be on the road.

I did some shop cleaning last weekend in preparation. I just have to pull the axles and powertrain off the table and it's build time.

One thing I'm pondering is if I should buy the cheap 1550 stock shafts and cut one down and run those or call branik and have shafts made and run yukon super joints. I'm kinda interested in seeing if the cheap factory stuff would hold up. I could put fresh spicers in what I have for spares.
 
#208 ·
I figure I'll check in with Goatbuilt on Monday. I know he was out at KOH last week, not sure how big of an operation it is. They charged my credit card, which they said they would do when they shipped. So I'm hoping it's either on the road, or about to be on the road.
Ours has been at the hub since Thursday, the shipping site says it hasn't been delivered due to inclement weather. I'm planning on going up to get it tonight.
 
#210 ·
It's shipped, and currently in Charlotte, NC per the tracking number. I can't say I understand truck freight since it started in Wisconsin and there's no ETA. Trailer is dug out from the weekend snow, so I'm ready to go and get it when it gets in.

I ordered the JHF weld on high steer a few weeks ago and have the driver's side mocked up. I have to drill out the pass side and clean up both knuckles and do final fitment so I can weld it on. It looks like he's made a few small changes since the last one I used. Once I have it on I can figure out my steering plan.

Last night I ordered up some new unit bearings (Timken) and rotors for the front axle. Might run to Bronco graveyard and get some spicer balljoints and u-joints so I can have most of the rebuild parts for the front on hand. I don't plan on installing new ball joints until after I have the high steer parts weldered on.
 
#206 ·
I'm not sure, I know the 1550 gives more steering angle before bind. I know when I've run a the stock 1480 05+ stuff, my issues were deflecting the ears of the shafts, ndidnt have any other failures. Maybe the increased steering (if not using it) will create less stress on the ears?

My tow pig 2012 f250 needs new joints and my right hub seal leaks vacuum so it needs new seals anyway. The new 1550 stuff comes assembled with the seal on it. It's about a $100 difference buying the assembled shafts VS two joints and seals. I'm ordering the 1550 shafts Monday for it. So far best deal I've found is Dennys driveshaft.
 
#233 ·
Buckle in, it'll take a while I'm guessing.

So these kits gonna kinda be like the ftoys were?
I'm guessing. It seems like there's at least a dozen or so getting built up. I'm sure with my collection of parts, mine won't be the blingest.

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Pic of hood?
I didn't grab one, but Roxroes has one on his facebook this morning. I stole the pic and it's attached.

Couldn’t do jack as they hold diagonals.
Ugh. He said they were sending it yesterday, fingers crossed it'll be here for the weekend.
 

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