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Low Range Drifter
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8,114 Posts
Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
Yep, I took 2" off the casting like the artec trusses call for. Still not sure if I will buy one of their setups or go another route.

In typical fashion, I started just cleaning the housing where I planned to cut, and then I decided to just after the whole housing with a wire wheel and used the needle scaler in the places I couldn't reach.

I marked a line 2" around and then used the portaband to cut around the circumference. I tried to figure out how thick the housing was, and buried the blade about the same amount.

Then I used cut off wheel on bottom to remove lower pieces and hide any sins from cutting too deep. I tried to prevent cutting into the housing with my cross cuts, and to make it so a piece would pop, I cut a short segment about 1/2" offset inside my final cut line. The spot was where the cut off disk had't cut all the way across. This allowed me to pop that piece out, and from there I work at it with the hammer and chisel.



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Low Range Drifter
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8,114 Posts
Discussion Starter #128
I'm going to pick up a Yukon 4340. I'm chewing on do I go with a 78 F250 at 34.55" or K30 at 35.08". For the $200, it's not worth paying shipping there and back plus the fee to cut.

The Chevy shaft should put the WMS at 68.2", and the Ford is 67.625". The 1/2" difference isn't much, but I can stop by Bronco Graveyard at lunch since it's a 15 minute drive and pick up the Ford shaft. They won't sell non-ford stuff...I've tried.

If I call and they have in stock, I'm sure instant gratification will win out.
 

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FAWK YEAH!!
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22,634 Posts
Lol. I run the chevy/Dodge shaft. Ran both the ujoint shaft and now a inner Rcv chevy/Dodge shaft.


Branik was like 80-90 a shaft I think when I had one of mine cut if I recall correctly.
 

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I'm not old, honest...
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30,097 Posts
Traffic coming out doesn't keep you from pulling in. I would think this wouldn't get lost on an automotive autonomous engineer. :teehee: And you could have picked up pizza on the way.

#anythingtogetafreelunch
 

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226 Posts
I think I missed something. But why all the work to the ball joint 60 axle just to end up with a basically stock king pin dana 60 width? :confused:
 

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Low Range Drifter
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8,114 Posts
Discussion Starter #135
1) Cost. $200 for this vs $800-1200 for a Ford Kingpin Dana 60
2) This will be about 1.5-2" narrower than a Kingpin Dana 60
3) I've packed/repacked enough Dana 60 bearings in my life that I'll happily pay a few bucks for unit bearings.
4) 05+ knuckles are huge
5) Factory 35 spline outers
6) Bigger axle tubes
7) Bigger ring and pinion
8) I forget what 8 was for
10) Everything
 

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I have an avatar. Yippee.
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4,280 Posts
1) Cost. $200 for this vs $800-1200 for a Ford Kingpin Dana 60
2) This will be about 1.5-2" narrower than a Kingpin Dana 60
3) I've packed/repacked enough Dana 60 bearings in my life that I'll happily pay a few bucks for unit bearings.
4) 05+ knuckles are huge
5) Factory 35 spline outers
6) Bigger axle tubes
7) Bigger ring and pinion
8) I forget what 8 was for
10) Everything
I hope you know this will go down on your permanent record.
 

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Low Range Drifter
Joined
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8,114 Posts
Discussion Starter #139

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FAWK YEAH!!
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22,634 Posts
Lol. You can fit the bigger gears, but they didn't come to it them in the f250/350 application.


Beefy's buggy has the gears I took from my 89 kingpin 60 when it got smashed and I installed them into the 06 housing with no issue.

Only real difference I found, was the 05+ don't have the large oil slinger plate under the bottom pinion bearing.
 
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